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How to: Front shock/spring removal

Discussion in 'Suspension' started by chris4x4, Mar 28, 2009.

  1. May 29, 2014 at 7:27 AM
    #481
    scottalot

    scottalot Tacomaentia <- My sickness

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    32.7833° N, 79.9333° W, and HBS Thread
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    I like this method. I'll be installing my new 885's very soon. I ordered the OME kit and paid to have them pre assemble the CO's . Am I understanding this right: since my CO's are already assembled that I don't need to worry about the spring pressure since I won't be taking my old ones apart. As long as I leave the top bolt alone on the hat (the bolt everyone says not to turn) then I don't need to worry about my spring flying out and hurting me lol ? Thus, I should have no reason to place a jack under my LCA and relieve the pressure.. In other words, the danger of the spring tension is not an issue if I just take out my stock pre assembled CO's still intact and swap for a new pair of intact CO's ?
     
  2. Jun 9, 2014 at 2:07 PM
    #482
    AaronK13

    AaronK13 Well-Known Member

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    I have read ALL 25 pages of this and I just want to ask a few questions. I got the rear done just fine, but the front is where I had issues. I got the sway bar moved just fine, but the UCA is giving me one hell of a time. I tried hammering directly on the threaded pin and no budge. I read on page 9 i think, you need to hit the side of it with a hammer, right on the flat part. (orange arrow) Is that like a sweet spot that releases it? Kinda like tapping the 57 logo on an old kethup bottle? lol

    I also tried shoving a pry bar between UCA and spindle. (red arrow), but that didnt work either.

    If I cant get it, can I just disconenct the tie rod bar with a tie rod puller and that will give me enough room?

    Or, my dad that about removing the 2 bolts that hold in the LCA to the frame and having that swing open. I see that being an issue getting it back together.

    uca.jpg
     
  3. Jun 14, 2014 at 10:44 AM
    #483
    double_b

    double_b Well-Known Member

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    Sorry, I just saw your reply to this thread. Not sure if you did your install yet but you are correct. You do not need to worry about spring pressure since you will be removing it while it is still assembled. Remove the 3 nuts around the top and remove the bottom shock bolt and it stays all assembled, no fear of the spring launching at you. lol
     
  4. Jul 6, 2014 at 9:56 AM
    #484
    MTopp

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    Bump for some help here. Would also like to know
     
  5. Jul 6, 2014 at 12:14 PM
    #485
    VE7OSR

    VE7OSR 'interfering with Darwin since 1990'

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    Correct. the most dangerous part of this method is to ensure your truck is stable on the jack stands, as you have to get the truck up high to get enough clearance to drop the coilover out the bottom. Do not need to remove/loosen sway bar or disconnect steering.
     
  6. Jul 7, 2014 at 6:50 PM
    #486
    MTopp

    MTopp Professional bear handler

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    I just did my lift today and this part was absolutely the biggest pain ever. I hammered in the spot you show, pried where you did and I finally took a piece of hard wood and put it directly onto the threaded part and hammered it. One side popped easy the other, not so much
     
  7. Aug 30, 2014 at 11:01 AM
    #487
    REEFDUP

    REEFDUP Well-Known Member

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    I bought the new bushing kit when I bought my coils/struts, I've seen the diagram of the order that they go on a 2nd gen. but with the 1st gen . you're supposed to use both rubber bushings. Which bushing goes where? They're two different ones but cant find out if smaller one goes above top plate or the larger one goes above top plate.
     
  8. Aug 30, 2014 at 12:15 PM
    #488
    MTopp

    MTopp Professional bear handler

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    Not sure, give me to around 5 and I have a very important update that will be very helpful.
     
  9. Aug 30, 2014 at 6:07 PM
    #489
    MTopp

    MTopp Professional bear handler

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  10. Aug 30, 2014 at 6:40 PM
    #490
    MTopp

    MTopp Professional bear handler

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  11. Aug 30, 2014 at 8:59 PM
    #491
    REEFDUP

    REEFDUP Well-Known Member

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    Anyone?
     
  12. Aug 30, 2014 at 9:01 PM
    #492
    MTopp

    MTopp Professional bear handler

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    Hmm, I'll try looking
     
  13. Aug 30, 2014 at 9:09 PM
    #493
    MTopp

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  14. Aug 30, 2014 at 9:11 PM
    #494
    MTopp

    MTopp Professional bear handler

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    Well, that didn't help, but good for other use for you, I'll keep digging
     
  15. Aug 30, 2014 at 9:15 PM
    #495
    MTopp

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  16. Sep 23, 2014 at 8:49 PM
    #496
    MateoTorgy

    MateoTorgy Well-Known Member

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    Unbelievable. This guy makes it seem so easy. Chris 2016.
     
  17. Sep 23, 2014 at 9:03 PM
    #497
    skygear

    skygear           

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    Lol math...
     
  18. Jan 24, 2015 at 6:47 PM
    #498
    TucTaco520

    TucTaco520 Well-Known Member

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    Magnaflow cat-back. K&N filter. TRD short shifter. Bilstein 5100 x4. Wheelers 1.5" AAL. 16" FJ Trail Team wheels. Murdered out via plasti-derp. LED interior lights.
    Just installed my front 5100s last night/today. What a marathon. I initially was trying to do the disassembly via jacking up the lca and unscrewing the top nut of the strut instead of the 3 surrounding it. I couldn't get a tight enough hold on the top part to unscrew the nut for the life of me. So I said screw it and took the whole assembly out. I was barely able to take it all out without disconnecting the lca from the lower ball joint assembly or disconnecting the steering tie rod end. I knew it would be hell trying to get the 5100 in there after swapping the coils over, especially cause I went for the biggest lift. So $50 later, I'm back trying to get these suckers in there. I honestly have no idea how anyone gets the tie rod ends disconnected from the rotor assembly!!!! I banged on the part that should drop the bolt right, bought a ball joint separator, banged on the castle nut while it was still on the bolt but noo. So the only other thing I thought to do was disconnect the two bolts on the underside of the rotor assembly that freed up the lca. I had to loosen the 2 bolts that connects the lca to the frame to free it up completely. The cam on the very back bolt got flipped over and I thought that was bad news, but the shop flipped it back over and the alignment seems legit.

    Here's my before numbers:

    Left caster: 2.1
    Right caster: .8
    Left camber: 1.0
    Right camber: .9
    Left toe: -.05
    Right toe: -.6 (I have minimal knowledge of how to truly interpret these readings but that seems like a huge difference.

    And the afters:

    Left caster: 1.6
    Right caster: 1
    Left camber: 0
    Right camber: -.4
    Left toe: .05
    Right toe: 0


    2 things I would like to know por favór:

    -How do these numbers look?
    -Do I need to get another alignment after adding a wheelers 1.5 aal, taking the overload out, and swapping for the rear 5100s?

    Appreciate the feedback!!
     
  19. Jan 24, 2015 at 8:10 PM
    #499
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 [OP] With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. Staff Member

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    Camber should match each other. Caster is low, but that can be corrected with new UCA's.
     
  20. Jan 24, 2015 at 8:52 PM
    #500
    TucTaco520

    TucTaco520 Well-Known Member

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    Thank you. Do I need an alignment after lifting the rear 1.5"?
     
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