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How to: Front shock/spring removal

Discussion in 'Suspension' started by chris4x4, Mar 28, 2009.

  1. Jan 24, 2015 at 9:59 PM
    #501
    4WD

    4WD cRaZy oLdmAn

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    No alignment needed when dealing with the rear suspension...
     
  2. Mar 5, 2015 at 9:38 PM
    #502
    grubburg

    grubburg Well-Known Member

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    anybody have a link to the .pdf files? the links don't work.
     
  3. Mar 6, 2015 at 6:31 AM
    #503
    MTopp

    MTopp Professional bear handler

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    Pictures for anyone who stumbles upon the thread. Page 8.
     
    Dean724 and iK0NiK like this.
  4. Mar 6, 2015 at 3:12 PM
    #504
    300AACTaco

    300AACTaco Well-Known Member

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    :eek:The pics and both links to them are gone

    Edit: Never mind I found them
     
  5. Mar 6, 2015 at 5:57 PM
    #505
    MTopp

    MTopp Professional bear handler

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    See my quote. The OPs pics are no longer available
     
  6. May 26, 2015 at 12:55 PM
    #506
    neverstuck

    neverstuck Well-Known Member

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    A vid I saw for Toytec lift instructions showed some 'dude' dropping the assembled coil pack straight down without touching the sway bar, tie rod or nothing. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w58_1Ugk4KY&spfreload=10
    I am going to try that method but am curious why its not more popular. Just drop the LCA straight down hanging from the cam bolts and pull the shock/coil straight down. To do this, Im curious if I will have to back off the cam bolts. The mechanic in the video did not but I have read that you need to for them to swing that far down. Anyone have experience with that?
     
    El Tano likes this.
  7. May 26, 2015 at 1:09 PM
    #507
    TucTaco520

    TucTaco520 Well-Known Member

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    Yes, I loosened the cam bolts to the LCA to get the assembly out. One side was harder than the other-don't be afraid to give it some muscle. If possible, keep the cams pointing in the same general direction. There's two notches that keep them situated a certain way and it's harder to realign if they get spun around and what not.
     
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  8. May 26, 2015 at 1:19 PM
    #508
    neverstuck

    neverstuck Well-Known Member

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    Thanks. My other concern I guess, is how high you have to lift it to be able to pull the assembly out the bottom. Using a floor jack and some 6 ton stands I'm hoping I can get everything high enough to clear them. I think that might be the reason people pull them out sideways rather than through the bottom.
     
  9. May 26, 2015 at 2:24 PM
    #509
    TucTaco520

    TucTaco520 Well-Known Member

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    The only jack stands I have are small ones that I used to use for my Subaru. You'll get it high enough, and the LCA doesn't need to be totally vertical to slide the assembly out.
     
    neverstuck[QUOTED] likes this.
  10. Sep 9, 2015 at 3:28 AM
    #510
    kodiakisland

    kodiakisland Well-Known Member

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    All I need to do is lower the driver side spring enough to put a 1/4in spacer on it. Looks like the above method of just lowering the LCA would be best for that.
    Agree or disagree?

    EDIT:
    That was easy. Just took out the two bolts on the LCA ball joint and removed the sway bar brackets for more room.
     
    Last edited: Sep 17, 2015
  11. Oct 24, 2015 at 7:15 AM
    #511
    connor016

    connor016 Well-Known Member

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    Just did this yesterday following the youtube video on post 507. I removed spacers and put on bilstein 5100s at 1.75. Didn't have to remove sway bar brackets or anything but did have to loosen the LCA bolts for it to swing down. Also I tried renting a strut compressor from Orielys auto parts and the ends that grab the coils are too large to fit between the coils when compressed so went to a shop and paid 25 each to swap them out. Was definitely worth going that route.
     
  12. Oct 29, 2015 at 1:34 PM
    #512
    sandyTrd87

    sandyTrd87 Well-Known Member

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    Bilstien 5100's x4 Dobinson 448 springs, rear 2inch AAL
















    Did anyone get these pictures to get back up?
     
  13. Nov 8, 2015 at 3:21 PM
    #513
    joedirt

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    Look up on YouTube for a video of removing the struts without a spring compressor. Worked great for me.
     
  14. Jan 22, 2016 at 3:16 AM
    #514
    smcgill

    smcgill Well-Known Member

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    What is the ft-lbs for the upper ball joint nut?
     
  15. Jan 22, 2016 at 6:42 AM
    #515
    smcgill

    smcgill Well-Known Member

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  16. Feb 25, 2016 at 3:16 PM
    #516
    pdx_climber

    pdx_climber Member

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    Ive seen both answers so I figure I'll ask again :) Replacing the front struts with 5100's. Do I need to replace the 'isolator'/hardware as per something like toytec kit or can I reuse the original. 130K on the 07 4x4 Taco and planning for another 200K or so. No lift or heavy off-road use.

    I also read these are a pain to get out of the support assy.
    Any reason to or not to replace the whole setup (something like this http://www.amazon.com/KYB-SM5640-Insulator-Bushing-Washer/dp/B00C7S0KA8)


    http://toyteclifts.3dcartstores.com/Front-shock-replacement-bushingwasher-kit_p_35.html

    And per this image, in the toytec kit would I sandwich the cushion b/w the two retainers, and the blue circle is the black rubber washer, correct?


    taco strut assy.jpg
     
  17. Apr 13, 2016 at 9:19 AM
    #517
    TheTacoma

    TheTacoma Well-Known Member

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    How could I see the pics in the original right up?
     
  18. Apr 25, 2016 at 3:18 PM
    #518
    bmgreene

    bmgreene Well-Known Member

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    Has anyone installing Bilstien 5100s had issues with the lower rubber bushing fitting into the installation location on the suspension?

    I just did my rear end yesterday (new leaf packs and 5100 shocks), and one of the most frustrating parts was getting the bottom ends of the shocks into their mount points and lining up to install the bolts, the rubber on them was about 1/32 inch wider than the gap it's supposed to fit into and required a bit of hammering to get in into place, then a lot of prying/jockeying to get the bolt holes lined up well enough to get the bolts in. Just wondering if I'm in for more of the same in the near future.
     
  19. Apr 25, 2016 at 3:27 PM
    #519
    TucTaco520

    TucTaco520 Well-Known Member

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    Yep, you're not alone. I remember mine being a PITA for about 15 minutes a side. Used a thick screwdriver and mallet to finally get the bolt thru.
     
    sandyTrd87 and bmgreene[QUOTED] like this.
  20. Apr 25, 2016 at 10:46 PM
    #520
    NotRed

    NotRed Well-Known Member

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    what he said - rubber mallet and prybar with spit :rolleyes:
     

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