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How to: Front shock/spring removal

Discussion in 'Suspension' started by chris4x4, Mar 28, 2009.

  1. May 11, 2009 at 9:59 AM
    #81
    hendooman

    hendooman The Stroker Ace

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    I went through this same dilemma. I finally whacked mine hard enough and she popped loose. I guess I was trying to be gentle, I only had about 500 miles on the truck at the time...now I know to bring out the real hammer!
     
  2. May 11, 2009 at 11:18 AM
    #82
    T@co_Pr3runn3r

    T@co_Pr3runn3r XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX

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    Yeah, don't use a ball joint seperator on it. Fucked up the rubber boot & crunched the ball joint. On a happeir note, it still drove to the shop where I let them do it instead after buying 2 new upper ball joints so both would be fresh. The bonud part is these have a grease fitting on them where the can have some fresh grease on occasion. Others didn't even have a spot for a grease fitting. There does seem to something missing from the how-to between remove the castle nut & now put it back together doesn't it. Was leary of that to begin with but gave it a shot. Didn't have anybody to stand on the lca but did have it strapped down to jack stand when trying to knock it out with hammer. Didn't budge, got 50k mileage tho. Didn't wanna get rough enough to screw the threads up so I just broke out the seperator & fucked the whole thing up, lol. At least it turned out OK...with some more cash thrown at it.
     
  3. May 11, 2009 at 11:31 AM
    #83
    hillbillynwv

    hillbillynwv Well-Known Member

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    Yea, I know where your coming from. I didn't want to cost myself more cash in the long run from trying to save money doing it myself. My friend helping me is a mechanical engineer and he couldn't figure out why the damn thing wouldn't come apart. With his brute force and my 200 pound ass standing on the rotor we got the job done. I am just glad we didn't break anything in the process.
     
    gregzz likes this.
  4. May 11, 2009 at 11:38 AM
    #84
    T@co_Pr3runn3r

    T@co_Pr3runn3r XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX

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    I was glad just to be able to drive it to the shop & that I ended up with some that have the grease fittings. Faunky happenstance can come out OK a rare occassions, lol.
     
  5. May 11, 2009 at 11:49 AM
    #85
    hillbillynwv

    hillbillynwv Well-Known Member

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    Another thing that I noticed from doing this job this weekend is that the stock UCA's are junk. They are formed flimsy metal. I was washing my wife's 1998 4Runner yesterday and were checking out her UCA's. They are made of heavy thick steel, built like they were for a tank. I was disappointed how junky mine were compared to hers. I guess this is why a lot of people have been changing them out to the Total Chaos UCA. Wish I could afford them!
     
  6. May 12, 2009 at 9:49 PM
    #86
    nurseboy

    nurseboy Well-Known Member

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    So I plan on this proejct soon... I just want to clarify, what part is everyone talking about where to hammer at? I don't want to get stuck at a certain point and hit the wrong place and spend a lot of time doing it. Also where are good locations to jack up the front of the truck and where to put the jackstands? It looks like from your pictures your jackstands are at full length + on top of wood. that really necessary to get it that high?
     
  7. May 13, 2009 at 6:02 AM
    #87
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 [OP] With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. Moderator

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    Here is a link that shows propper lifting and support position:
    The jack stands were on the second to last notch. I prefer to have it kinda high, so as to have more working room. If positioned propperly, it will be plenty stable. The part to hit with the hammer, it the Upper ball joint bolt. When you remove the castle nut, hit it hith a hammer to separate the Upper Control Arm from the spindle.
     
  8. May 14, 2009 at 1:39 AM
    #88
    nurseboy

    nurseboy Well-Known Member

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    thanks for the info/link chris. I also forgot to ask about a new jack. I already have a jack but I used it for my honda. I dont think it will be big enough and will raise the truck high enough. What kind of Jack do you recommend I buy for regular use for the truck?
     
  9. May 14, 2009 at 6:04 AM
    #89
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 [OP] With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. Moderator

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    Get a good floor jack. I have a Craftsman 3 ton with a 29" lift.....Try to find anything 2 ton or higher, and 25" lift or more.
     
  10. May 15, 2009 at 2:56 PM
    #90
    nurseboy

    nurseboy Well-Known Member

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    So far I've only been able to find "Torin Service 3.5-Ton Jack, Dual pump raises vehicles 5 times faster than standard jacks. Lifts to an incredible 22in."

    highest floor jack i can find at homedepot, but that thing weighs 101 lbs!!!!

    would an alluminum 2.5 ton jack be okay? But the max height for this one is 18 inches? Will i be able to get around with that for daily use when i lift it 3 inches?


    btw. im only looking at jacks for less then $200. I dont want/cant afford to much on it
     
  11. May 15, 2009 at 4:12 PM
    #91
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 [OP] With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. Moderator

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    All the aluminum ones I have used have blown out seals.....It could be me, however, my 3 ton Craftsman has held up fine for years. You should be able to find a really good jack for under $100.00
     
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  12. May 16, 2009 at 2:57 AM
    #92
    nurseboy

    nurseboy Well-Known Member

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    yea i bought a 3 ton craftsman, but its only able to go up to 19 inches. I realized it was to short, spent 8 hours on attempting to add-a-leaf, stripping a bolt, and going back home stock height...
     
  13. May 16, 2009 at 1:50 PM
    #93
    nurseboy

    nurseboy Well-Known Member

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    i forgot to ask, will the 19inch jack be high enough to lift the front end up to put a 3 inch lift coilver on? (its the toytec coilver, one that comes 2.5-3 inch already lifted...
     
  14. May 16, 2009 at 3:31 PM
    #94
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 [OP] With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. Moderator

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    It should be close...You can use a block of wood to get extra height, but be sure to use jack stands under the truck after its raised to the required height.
     
  15. May 16, 2009 at 3:51 PM
    #95
    nurseboy

    nurseboy Well-Known Member

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    so i jack up the front of the car underneath the front diff? then place jack stands on the frame and lower the front diff to get enough clearance to put the new coilover right?
     
  16. May 16, 2009 at 11:11 PM
    #96
    TacoNut

    TacoNut IgnoringChrisWatchingEdLi veVicariouslyThroughMJP2

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    the jackstands are so your truck doesn't fall on top of you when you tear off all of your knuckle flesh yanking on a bolt
     
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  17. May 20, 2009 at 7:20 PM
    #97
    T-Ride

    T-Ride New Member

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    Is the spacer lift no good? I was thinking of getting one but I don't want to run into problems with it.
     
  18. Jul 21, 2009 at 8:08 PM
    #98
    Carson

    Carson Well-Known Member

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    Everyone says it gives a terrible ride.

    Thanks for the write up, doing my 5100s and AAL on saturday :D
     
  19. Jul 26, 2009 at 6:07 PM
    #99
    RelentlessFab

    RelentlessFab Eric @Relentless Fab Vendor

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    alright, gonna go pull my struts to remove the spacer lift and get my new OME setup assembled tomorrow. :D Thanks for the refresher on how to pull the front end apart Chris. :thumbsup:
     
  20. Jul 26, 2009 at 6:35 PM
    #100
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 [OP] With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. Moderator

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    :)
     

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