How to lift a TRD PRO (a bit) w/ stock suspension

Not too much poke.

 

I know what you mean I had to get an FJC to go with my FJ.

 

Looks good man!

 

Not too much different than stock. I guess splitting .8 inch is really not that noticeable. Somehow my mind was thinking about an inch to the outside, ... warped thinking, I guess.

 

@CJH9980 , this lift didn’t require the differential drop spacer kit as the Revtek 427AP? Your truck looks great with that lift.

 

Yea.. I am sure some Spidertrax would make it look great, but I am reluctant to try them even though I know many people use them and are fine. Also makes me think might need some fender work if I push the wheels out too much? Not 100% sure. I just wanted to avoid CMC / cutting my fenders / messing with stock Pro suspension for now.

 

Thanks! That is correct, no diff drop. The lift is subtle but very noticeable at the same time, especially when next to a stock Tacoma

 

Nice!

I need to get near some water and take a couple.

 

dropping my pro off at local shop today , finally having the 1 1/2 front, {3/4 strut spacer} and {1 inch rear block} installed,,,
ive had the parts for awhile, hope all goes good,, will get it back tomorrow...

 

I don’t have a TRD Pro, so this question is more of just a curiosity. My understanding is that the Pros sit an inch higher from the factory (I think).

If true, do any of you guys know whether they come from the factory with the CV axle needle bearing on the driver‘s side? How does Toyota handle the “lifted” Pro...I doubt that they put the ECGS clamshell in there do they? Do they do anything to address the needle bearing on the taller Pro?

 

I think its only a issue on 2+ inch lifts.

 

Right, agree, that is my understanding as well. I was just wondering if Toyota took any 'precautions' or did anything different with the TRD Pros since they were lifted a bit more.

 

with such a mild lift, im hoping to have no issues...bought it a yr ago.. got about 70 bucks into parts, and now labor, local shop has no work, hes a friend of mine, so shouldnt be too bad. plus my tires rubbed alittle, with the SCS wheels.

 

well lift went well,, 70.00 in parts and 270.00 in labor includes longer ubolts... took it for a ride on a few roads, seems to ride the same. i can notice the height differance when driving, no vibes, i love it,, 1/4 in rake.. i took my tyger auto sidesteps, man they are heavy, mechanic could not believe how heavy they are.gonna put something else on,,.
maybe 285's next time for tires...

 

Truck looks great! That Westcott kit looks nice but I don't understand how they can claim it isn't a spacer lift. You mentioned it being a subtle lift. Any chance you could measure the distance between the bottom of the fender flare and the ground at the center of the wheels?

 

The rear is a spacer lift, but the front is a spring preload lift. The front is similar to how bilstien 5100 uses the snap rings to adjust where the bottom spring seat is on the shock. It is also the same as how a adjustable coilover with a threaded body works. Its just moving the spring seat up and that generates the lift. If you look at trd pro struts, you'll actually notice how the left strut has a lift already with the spring seat on that side moved up 1/4 compared to the passenger side.

 

Okay. Thanks! That makes more sense now. So the front uses a spring preload lift in conjunction with the top spacer to achieve the total amount of lift. I had a set of coilovers on a car years ago that used a spring preload style adjustment. So, I'm assuming that since it raises the preload just like a spacer lift does, that it's going to ride a little rougher than stock?

 

Im no expert on suspension, but by adding more preload to the spring, it should make it a little stiffer.

Generally spacer lifts (the type that go on top of the strut) are considered bad because you push the whole strut assembly down, this causes the strut to become the bump stops. Thats where you see all the pictures of folded over struts people like to post in spacer lift threads.
This one doesnt really move the strut from its factory location, but rather just pushes the spring up. You maintain the same travel you had, but the truck sits higher up.

There are 2 versions of this kit, the revtek one, and this one.
Revtek uses no top spacer, but puts the spring spacer on top of the spring.
This kit replaces the lower spring perch and moves it up higher, but also adds a small spacer to the top of the strut top (normal spacer style lift you see). The advantage to this over the revtek is that your not compressing the spring to get the whole amount of lift, its balanced out with a small top spacer. The small top spacer is not enough to cause you to damage your struts if you bottom out.

I believe this is all correct, but I am just going off what I have read from various sources (for and against these lifts)

 

Okay. Thank you! Appears you have done a good amount of research.

I'm not that familiar with spacer lifts. I lifted my 1st gen using OMEs up front and some AALs in the rear.

I bought a Pro hoping that I wouldn't have to spend any extra money on suspension. My goal is to throw some 255/85s on the stock wheels and retain the stock mud flaps without any rubbing. I've read that some trucks rub while others do not. So, I'm trying to educate myself on what my options are in the event that I'm one of the unlucky ones.

Thanks again for your time!