How To Remove CV Axle+Replace Front Wheel Bearing 2nd Gen

The front c clip was in the correct spot?

 

Just finished this job. At least the hub bearing assembly part along with both end links as they were shot to hell after 14 years and 129 thousand miles. Total time was about 3 1/2 hours and it was the first time ever for me. Took some time off to enjoy a cold one after the old hub needed some time to think about coming off A.K.A PB blaster to soak in. There was a ton of gunk in there so I cleaned it up and put some anti sieze on the spindle and called it a day. I did use blue locktite on all bolts including the caliper bolts and end link bolts. My tourque wrench maxed out at 150 lbs so I just gave it a little extra at the end. Saved myself some dough and learned some valuable experience. Thanks to those who help others out on this forum and other like it. Cheers!

 

Hey all!
someone earlier (Badwin45, back in 2012) said they were gonna try a 12 ton jack and would report back. I have a 12 ton jack and need to release my old bearing and press in some new ones. Does anyone know if my 12 ton should be sufficient?

Thanks all!

 

Hopefully this hub assembly replacement will go “smoothly”
Planning on Sunday

 

What vendor did you buy the hubs from?

 

I got my brother to send them to me. He works for them (Dorman).
Good deal.

 

Quick question relating to replacing an entire hub assembly and the seals:

Are these parts inside the complete hub assembly OR are these going in either side outside the assembly?

I think outside right? Like do I need these if I have a full assembled hub assembly and am replacing only that? Doing this tomorrow morning so want to make sure I am ready.

 

Do those

$140 Dorman 950-001 Pre-Pressed Hub Assembly - Front Compatible with Select Lexus / Toyota Models (OE FIX)

Dorman 950-001 hub bearing assemblies still have the issue with the inner seal being too small? That was one of the issues I read in the reviews on SummitRacing's site.

I can't tolerate the harmonic groaning sound anymore as the vehicle speed increases and decreases. Time start planning on taking care of this issue.

 

I see that you wrapped the able around the CV Axle, was the duct tape sufficient to hold the cable in place?? or did you wrap the cable between the CV and the diff???

 

The cable is between the forged axle and seal. Zoom in to see details. Duck tape insured cable didn't slip outta place.

 

Some of you guys that have been recently installing aftermarket bearings I would be interested in knowing if they are reboxed OEM or something else. I opened a few of the generic white boxes a O'Reillys a few years ago and sure enough they were reboxed OEM. Even the premier SKF bearings were reboxed OEM at the time. I suspect things may have changed now and the only way to know is look at the inscription in the metal race on the bearing itself. Look for Koyo followed by a long number.

 

I am replacing the front wheel bearing on my tacoma this week. I bought a wheel bearing assembly because I read that if you do the whole assembly then you do not need a press. Having never done this repair before I am already a little apprehensive. Thanks in advance for any clarification.

 

Did anyone need to use a slide hammer to get the hubs off, or will a hammer and pry bar work for most of us? Thinking of renting one from AutoZone.

 

I used a prybar working around the hub and tapping the hub with a hammer.

 

Just put in a right front assembly. Hub bolts were rusted so I cut a hole in the hub with the angle grinder and was able to get an impact gun one them. Came off like butter after that, and soaking in Rust Penetrant for 30 minutes.

 

I just did both front hubs yesterday with assemblies I bought from this thread back in the summer. The tutorials people have posted were helpful, but I have a few notes that may save some of you time and frustration.

1. There's really no need to remove the wheel speed sensor. My driver's side one was super stuck and I didn't want to break it, so I left it in there and was careful. Passenger side I didn't even try to remove it.
2. Getting the new seal in the knuckle was the hardest part, but I didn't have a proper sized seal press disc. Would have been easier with that.
3. I found it to be much easier to take off the two bolts hold on the front lower ball joint attachment than taking off the ball joint itself. Experience with New England vehicles has taught me that I have a 50/50 shot of wrecking the ball joint trying to get it out. The bolts impact out in seconds, then get put back with 118 ft-lbs.
4. Slide hammer helped to break the hub loose, but a 3 jaw puller made much quicker work of getting it off the CV and the rest of the way out.

Question - Will I need to go back in there after X miles to check the axle nut torque, or is it usually fine?

 

If you torqued the axle nut to spec (174ft/lbs?) and put on the retainer/cotter pin, the nut shouldn't move and will all be set.

 

gonna tackle this today with some help from @Taco No Baka

 

We got that crap knocked out in less than an hour...and it didn't need to be done, IMHO. The problem was the upper ball joint was shot out. The trick is to break the CV axle loose before you even bother removing the hub. Do that and the hub falls out in your hand once the bolts are loose. The easiest (and only successful way, in my experience) is to take a ball peen hammer, set the ball peen in the the machining divot (the chamfered hole in the center of the end of the axle) and then smack the hammer side of the ball peen with a 3 lb sledge. That should brake the CV loose from the hub and the rest is easy from there. I'm actually freaking jealous. Us 1st Gen guys gotta take the whole spindle/knuckle assembly up to the machine shop to install a new wheel bearing and it's a crap ton more work. Of course, we do have the advantage on the rear axles, so I guess it's an even trade.

https://youtu.be/ZfpP4sy8qYw?t=183

 

Thanks for the help Lee!