How To Remove CV Axle+Replace Front Wheel Bearing 2nd Gen

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After looking at an example of a 6 ton A-frame press at Harbor Freight, this press does not have the vertical capacity to handle the hub/bearing assy. regardless of it's force capacity.

 

I picked up a 12 ton press on sale at harbor freight and am planning on giving ita try this weekend. I'll let you know how it works out.

 

I did the same thing on one side while using the slide hammer. I had to use a punch and sledgehammer to knock it out. The other side I just used a sledgehammer and punch from the beginning. I don't remember my '91 pickup being that difficult.

 

I've got a few extra 4x4 hub assemblies if anyone is interested. Great spare to have as long as you have a bearing on it already. Can be changed roadside in only 45 mins and its better than driving on a bad one and risking the consequences!

I drive the taco on 1000+ mi trips to go wheeling and theres no way I would drive all the way back on a rumbling bearing!

Hell if you ship me the bearing and seal I will even press it onto the hub for free! (although the bearings on them have less than 1k miles on them)

 

You need to have a spare axle assy for me.

 

Already got rid of those...

 

err rear axle sorry

imma derp

 

possibly within a few weeks. Dont know if i am gonna part it out though...unless someone wants a third with an arb and 4.56's...

 

Bummer, at this point I'm balls deep in swapping shafts. Good luck with the part out though. Hope you're going tons.

 

There is no doubt he is going tons. 2nd gen on anything smaller is absolutely pitiful

 

I want it.. alas my wallet is empty..

 

I will trade it for an ARB for a Ford High Pinion D60 front, and I will throw in the 4.56's and the third for free

 

whoo well done thanks

 

subby

 

Great write up. I have to do this plus lower/upper ball joints and outer and inner TRE's

 

So can i just buy a new hub assembly and replace that?

 

You can buy the wheel bearing, hub, outer seal, and the 4 bolts separately, and have them pressed together for a complete unit. Other than that, I haven't found any source that sells that assembly already together.

 

Tomorrrow I'm going to pull the CV axle to put in the ECGS bushing. I'm not going to bother with the wheel bearings because they are still holding up. Can someone correct me if I am wrong but it seems that I only have to do the following:

-Remove Tire
-Remove cover & 35mm CV bolt
-Unbolt and suspend caliper
-Remove brake rotor
-Disconnect tie rod
-I think I can just take out the cotter pin, loosen the castle nut and separate the tie rod?
-Disconnect the lower ball joint bracket
-Disconnect sway bar
-Remove CV axle with slide hammer
-remove oil seal
-remove shitty sloppy toyota needle bearing with ECGS puller

-install ECGS bushing flush with outside using gear oil and a socket as a race
-Install new oil seal
-insert CV axle back in being careful with the C-clip opening facing up. Line up splines by feel (truck has 4wd engaged), put 35mm bolt on temporarily and give a solid whack to reset the c-clip
-slide the outside of CV axle back into hub # torque the 35mm nut to 175 ft lbs
-reinstall rotor, caliper, tie rod, sway bar and torque everything down.
-put on tire
-drink scotch

Am I on the right track or do I have to disassemble more? And my understanding is since the tie rod end isn't adjusted at all, the alignment doesn't have to be done after?

 

That's pretty much it!