How To Remove CV Axle+Replace Front Wheel Bearing 2nd Gen

Some things were harder than I thought and some easier than I thought. Getting the axle out with a slide hammer was super easy. Probably the easiest step. Getting the bearing removal tool to sit right in the void between the spider gears and the bearing was a pain in the ass. Took a bunch of tries and tapping with a punch to get it in flush. Also, putting in the bushing was tough. Hard to keep it straight when getting it started. I put it in the freezer and used lots of oil. The oil seal was a jerk too. Had to use the slide hammer with the three jaw attachment to get the bloody thing out. To put hte new one in I found and empty soup can just the right size and then put a bunch of layers of electrical tape around the rim to make it soft. Kind of hard to get it in, and I wasn't sure how far to drive it in, but it looks like its doings it's job.

All in all the vibrations are gone so I'm happy. I'm a little concerned because the longevity of the bushing isn't proven yet, and if it does wear out I assume it will put deep grooves in the axle and require it to be replaced, and I hope the removal tool will fit in behind the bushing if need be.

 

glad it came out ok!! I was going to install my NST lightweight crank pulley last week and i noticed the passenger side oil seal was leaking, so looks like i'm gonna have to get that one done as well .

 

I've put almost 40k miles on the bushing so far, and it seems to be just as good as the first mile. I did use the puller to het the bushing out, so yes, it will work for that. As for the oil seal, I used a $5 seal puller from pep boys to get it out. After it came out, the seal was un usable, but took a total of 2 minutes. As far as the new seal, you drive it in as far as it will go. I used a piece of hard plastic off of my shop vac to drive it, I've also heard of guys using PVC pipe to drive it as well. For the bushing, I used the back end of a large socket to drive ot in, large enough to fit over the bushing, and just smaller than the inside of the race so I would have the bushing flush and not accidently drive it too far. I think thw thing that helpwd me the most was having a second person there to help. Thanks Skadumz.

 

So I just got done with doing the ECGS and replaced the seal and everything is tight but I cant get it too stop leaking!!!
I really need help with this guys.
I have had it apart 3 times now, and cant figure it out?????
I thought i had pushed the seal into the diff too far because after i did a test drive it was pouring out.
So i pulled it out to reset it near the edge of the diff. now it only has a small drip.....
only thing i can think is that i might have damaged it pulling it out to reset it..?

My question is do I push the seal all the way in or leave it at the edeg of the diff?
thanks!!

Also this seal is not a oem, should i go with an oem seal?

 

Thanx for the pic details ,,, Makes it easier knowing what i need to look for .

 

Holy Crap! I hope I never tear a CV boot... but nice work.. that job is out of my pay scale.. That's why I ask all those silly questions abotu mine.. I do
appreciate the professional advice..

 

I got my all seal up I went back to oem seal

 

yea i went with oem, its the only one that i've seen that works without it leaking again. unfortunately i haven't seen a suitable replacement (timken, skf etc)

 

Bent my spindle/knuckle and this post was super helpful gettin this effer back on the road. Thanks!

 

Oil Seal(s) - ??? There are two on the cv axles, one closer to the differential, the other towards the outside or close to the wheel bearing. The same ones i didn't replace I need part numbers for these.

 

from Toyodiy.com

 

Anyone having problems with Moog bearings failing early?

 

does anyone have the pdf that is linked to the ncttora site? when I click on it, it comes up as gone!

 

toyota made them take it down. I highly advise you download and save these because it will be next. http://www.customtacos.com/tech/files/05FSM/repair.html

 

Thanks for the link. I had started at one time....lost track of it but I've finally got the whole manual


cheers!

 

how does one save them?

 

anyone have any helpful tips to get the hub out of the spindle? i have beat the hell out of it with a BFH and it wont move any more than the 1/8" gap it is at now.

 

Brutal,

right click on the link, you should get a menu....find the one that says something like save link as...and save!

enjoy

 

unsure what your asking?
are you trying to brek free upper ball joint from spindle?
or are you trying to seperate the bearing assembly from the spindle?

will try it thanks

 

bearing from the spindle. ive loosened all 4 bolts holding it on and beat it with a BFH and used pry bars upto 24" in length and it will not budge any more.