How To Remove CV Axle+Replace Front Wheel Bearing 2nd Gen

dont think that works
if i disconnect from internet i can not access
must be another way
because if they close it the link will disappear
anyone else have a n easy way to save the pdf's???

 

I already tried to send it to him... Get a kid (5 to 14 years old) to do it for you.

You take off the center crown and nut??

 

Good one Sandman! "Get a kid (5 to 14 years old....)

 

yes, both axles are removed from the hub presently as well

 

Not totally sure I'm following but if the four bolts are backed off the spindle and the 35mm nut is removed try a three prong wheel puller. Basically pushes the cv through the spindle. Had the same issue swapping my efffed up spindle last month and this was the fix. Free rent at AZ

 

I think someone should start a torrent with ALL these. Would be a better preservation of data. OR an ANON server overseas.

 

rolling head pry bars maybe...

 

Anyone know about the MOOG?

 

What are the bearing part numbers for a 4wd? and what is the grease people were using in them?

 

Decent price? and are these the right ones?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/TIMKEN-Fron...Parts_Accessories&hash=item485076c60c&vxp=mtr

 

Looks at rockauto.com, they are cheap and gave a promo code.

 

Supposedly they are top of the line, but I am having a problem with both of the fronts I just put in. I swapped out both front bearings and all seals except for the one attached to the CV. I put about 5k miles on em, and now they are growling. I read in a couple of spots that folks are having an issue with them on toyota vehicles, one was on Advance Auto review of Moog wheel bearings. When I pressed mine in, I noticed they were slightly difficult to rotate, but paid it no mind to it. I am going to do it again in a few weeks, but I am going to see if parts store will let me exchange for a different brand. If not, I was going to measure the OD of the hub and the ID of the Moog bearing to see if that is the trouble. Only downfall is I have to buy all new seals, though rock auto has all but the o ring and the CV seal for $25, which I'm gunna order here in a minute. I do wonder if any one else using Moog bearings on this site is having the same problem, or am I just doing something wrong.

 

YEA YOUR NOT REPLACING THE SEAL ON THE CV WHICH IN TURN IS MAYBE LETTING IN CONTAMINANTS

 

I thought about that, and when I pull em, I am going to look to see if there is any evidence of water, or salty crap. So in reality, 4wd trucks have 4 seals on each side to replace when doing a bearing job. Outer, O-ring, inner, and CV.

 

3
YOU SHOULD HAVE THE O RING THE INNER "BETWEEN THE HUB AND BEARING" AND THE CV TO SPINDLE SEAL
THE ONLY OTHER SEAL IS THE FRONT DIFF SEAL

 

There are 2 seals at the CV and bearing. One attached to the spindle, and one attached to the CV. I didn't replace the one attached to the CV.

Part#s 43501k and 43502k

 

I think I may have found another option for the Part#s 43501k and 43502k, National part# 710159. I just ordered them for $11 and when they get to me, I make sure they are correct and post.

 

Fine, can someone link or put ALL the part numbers needed? Please? I am considerin doing both at the same time. Just to make sure all is well.

 

I recently replaced the driver side inner seal (the one attached to the inside of the spindle) with one made by National. It actually also said Moog in a small section on the box. I bought it at Advance Auto, and the part is #710573. So far, so good, but it's only been a few hundred miles.

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xkbaGzZTWOg