How To: Replacing Spark Plugs and Wires on 5VZ-FE 3.4 V6

what a pain in the !@#

This is probably the easiest vehicle I've ever worked on
Guess they had to make something WAY more involved than it should be

Thanks for the great write-up!

 

Thanks for the write up. Wouldn't have tried it without it! Nothing to it with your guidance. By the way, all of the NKG plugs I used were way off on the gap. Probably more like .020 for most of them.

 

YES! i was waiting for one of this! Someone please sticky this! Thanks!

 

Saved for later. Thanks

 

That is the most valuable post I've ever read - Thank you! My "New" 1995 Tacoma v6 with 206,000 miles was mostly an uneducated purchase...but I dig this truck! No mods & very little recent maintenance. Plugs & oil first & I'll be back for everybody else's expertise.

 

Glad it helps.

 

Thanks for the post, just installed my new plugs!

 

done, thanks for the write up

 

Due to the detail and professional lay out, this should definitely become a sticky.

 

This was incredibly helpful. Changed my plugs this weekend using this as a guide and everything worked incredibly well. Previous owner had changed the driver side plugs before but the passenger side were all original with 188,000 miles on them. blew my mind

 

This may be a stupid question but why does the wire pack only come with 3 of the 6 boots? And I assume you cleaned the passenger side boots because the wire pack didnt have them? Would make more sense to me that the kit would include all 6 boots.

 

Because the coils are on the boot for the passenger side (cant rember the correct phrase lol) so the wires only go from the coil pack to the driver side

 

Thanks! ill be picking up these parts tomorrow, dont know if plugs have ever been done in my truck @ 136k mi

 

This great write up, and an upcoming trip to the Mojave, motivated me to change my plugs today at 99,564 miles. My truck was beginning to start a bit rougher and knocking at times. The spark plug change made an instant difference. Truck is running smoother and seems to have more power!
I used NGK plugs and a #57 drill bit (0.043") to check the gaps. All but one was spot on. On the passenger side I saw no reason to remove the MAF (electrically or physically). Removal of the intake pipe was enough to reach all the plugs easily. The #6 cylinder has the most difficult to access but even that was not really a problem. Anyone that thinks this job is hard should try changing plugs on a V-6 Ford Ranger!
The old plug gaps had worn to between 0.058 and 0.060 inches. One thing I wanted to do was check the coil resistance on both the low voltage and the high voltage sides. Unfortunately I was unable to find the factory recommended resistances. I'm assuming that is the reason for the multi-meter seen in the original post.
As there is some question as to the use of anti-seize on spark plug threads I'll get my two cents in. I used anti-seize on this job for two reasons. One is that I don't have a torque wrench. This means I turned them in by hand till the seals seat on the head then turn them just over half a turn more. I believe that the anti-seize compound allows me to more easily feel when the plugs hit the landing. Number two is I believe anti seize will allow the plugs to be removed with out damage to the heads.
If a torque wrench is used the number one reason may not apply.

 

Does anyone see an issue with running a single electrode BKR5E-11 NGK V power plug instead of the double electrode? The plugs I have are what the part store supplied me.

Path of least resistance seems the only advantage. With having 2 electrodes, as one wears down the other one comes into play more?

Thanks

 

I have been running a single electrode iridium tipped plug for 8-10 years and I around 130k miles. I know the manual specifically calls for the dual electrode. I am about to change plugs again and will again use the single tipped iridium. No issues, no problems and long plug life.

 

Thanks spooky. I will go back with what the manufacturer suggest next time but for now the new NGK plugs and wires should make a difference.

 

How often is everyone changing the wires? I change my spark plugs every 30k but I have never changed the wires. Truck seems to run fine, just wondering if I should toss out the original wires and put in a new set

 

I'm using iridium plugs, iridium plugs last a long time. I'm going for replacing plugs and wires every 100k.

 

How many miles on the original wires? I thought mine ran fine until I replaced them with the blue NGK wire set at 117k. VERY noticeable difference in acceleration and mpg. The truck just ran better all around.

As far as plugs, it's not that hard to go down to the dealership and drop $20 on a set of oem plugs. It's what the trucks were designed to run.