How to: Retrofit Morimoto FX-R & Mini H1- in depth

me too lol, they're LED strips encased in epoxy, should provide enough of a heat shield

 

I hope so.lol that would be shitty to have one go out and one works. Just like my halos.lol

 

I had a halo go out too but I caught it before I installed everything.

 

Ya well when I installed mine everything worked.lol except the ballasts but that's a resolving issue

 

I really think I want to do this, but it looks like a monumental pain in the ass, and I can definitely see me fucking it up altogether. How much does it usually cost to have this done?

 

Burt does Minis for $550 I think and FXR for $630.
Asian Ants idk if he still does them

I am looking for some test subjects to start doing this. Do a few of them cheap to get some reputation and feedback and then go full on retrofitting at regular price.

Everytime I hit my high beams I smile and think "$250 well spent".

 

I agree. lol and thanks to you for pushing me to do the retro itself and getting the 55w system

 

I still do it

 

He still does it ^

LOL

 

Anyone go from a 35w Philips/denso setup to a 55w? Im assuming all 55w are aftermarket only. I really enjoy my Philips OEM setup, but I always want more light.

 

Just the 55w osram bulbs

 

Osram isnt a bad brand though. I may have to look into it. Its funny how the Philips/Denso setup I have is pretty much instant warm up. I need to take a video and post it to the threads of people complaining about warmup time. Now my morimotos took a second to warmup, but it was never something to complain about. Who needs instant light anyways. By the time you start your car, turn on your lights and get your seatbelt on etc the lights are warmed up. I never had an issue with cheap HID kits not giving me light faster than I needed to get going.

 

Ya my lights take a few seconds to warm up but I don't mind

 

color matched shrouds, MH1 and 80mm Halo with diffuser ring from SUperbright LEDS (helped cover up the green ish color when off)

 

Did my guide come in handy or are you just posting your pimp ass retro here?

 

Both. The 4r lights are a little harder since the alignment plate thing doesnt work since we have 9006 sockets you ahve to grind them down and align the projector rotationally.

And the guys at HIDP have no love for mini H1s but I'm very pleased with the output. I want to do 55w ballasts and some new bulbs.

I also wet sanded and polished one of my headlights but I don't think I did enough, it's still a little hazy. Gonna do the meguiar's kit at some point. I also decided against the demon eyes..

 

I wouldn't do 55w in the Minis.

If you had two vehicles, one with Minis and one with FXR like me you would no longer be a mini guy. The beam pattern is the same width, but the height from cutoff to floor is a lot bigger, almost twice as big.

Don't get me wrong, the Minis are still way better than stock halogens.

Look here at the beam height

http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/showthread.php?54158-RX350-vs-FX-R-3-0-vs-Q5-R-vs-Mini-H1-6-0-bonus

The Mini is way up by the wall, but the FXR is a few feet back. Less dead space for trucks, and a better high beam and ability to run 55w.

I am glad the HIDP guys talked me into FXR

 

Interesting comparison. Why wouldn't you run 55's in the minis?

I don't really *need* them anyway since I have another gajillion lumens, but I was thinking it would be nice since they are so well aimed now. So much better than my aftermarket headlights.

ETA just saw they can't handle the heat. Dumb.

One thing I should note was I found tightening the back nut, maintaining rotational alignment and getting the bulb holder in place to be very difficult. I also used big ass channel locks because who the hell has a 26mm socket?

 

I do! Hahaha

Yes the minis may it may not be able to handle 55w. Some people even try to avoid 55w in the Fxr. With the lens frame on the mini being plastic I wouldn't push it.

As for rotation of the minis it is best to tighten them, rotate them from the front, tighten them again, rotate them one last time from the front. Then epoxy the mini shaft to the nut, and also the bulb holder/guide to the housing. Not a ton just a drip or two on each of the 3 tabs and also on the shaft/nut.

This will keep it secure for driving but if you ever had to get it off you could cut through the epoxy/adhesive