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How To: Secondary Stand Alone Fuse Block Install

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by H2Otx, Oct 27, 2010.

  1. Jul 7, 2015 at 3:01 PM
    #181
    MTopp

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    Yeah, technically speaking after looking at it, it all looks good... maybe try and tape off the exposed metal on the ends of the crimped on connectors there. The crimp ones I use have a plastic cover. Other than that, try a different fuse slot, maybe one that comes on with the running lights to see if it changes anything.
     
  2. Jul 7, 2015 at 3:04 PM
    #182
    MTopp

    MTopp Professional bear handler

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    Also, what is that extra ground wire sticking out at the camera in the top photo? If thats not needed, cut it off. Less variables to worry about then
     
  3. Jul 7, 2015 at 3:20 PM
    #183
    euroshowoff

    euroshowoff Well-Known Member

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    Initial impression was to leave it for future switched. But I since cut it off thinking it was hitting some metal below the center console, like in a screw or something.

    The weird thing is i was running all the lights one night, and after a while they blew the fuse.

    Next time I tried things I ran the ditch lights for 10 minutes, as soon as I hit the switch for my rack lights it blew the fuse. Im
     
  4. Jul 7, 2015 at 3:24 PM
    #184
    MTopp

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    What lights do you have? What are the watt ratings for one of each?
     
  5. Jul 7, 2015 at 4:33 PM
    #185
    euroshowoff

    euroshowoff Well-Known Member

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    I have the hella 500ff which I believe to be the issue. 2 lights are 55w and the other two are 100w. So a total of 310 watts. But I'm under the impression that this does not make it to the switch.
     
  6. Jul 7, 2015 at 7:23 PM
    #186
    MTopp

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    What size fuse is in your auxiliary fuse block? 310 watts at 12 volts is about 25 amps. So you'd need a 25-30 amp fuse in there.

    Idk that still shouldn't back feed to the switch and blow the fuse
     
  7. Jul 7, 2015 at 7:51 PM
    #187
    euroshowoff

    euroshowoff Well-Known Member

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    Well I have each pair of lights wired to to a separate relay, so two relays and one trigger wire to activate 2 pairs of lights. Each time a fuse blows it's always the add a fuse and not on the aux fuse block.
     
  8. Jul 7, 2015 at 8:08 PM
    #188
    JustinL

    JustinL Well-Known Member

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    Right the only power going to your switch is the signal wire from the relay and the illumination wires.
     
  9. Jul 7, 2015 at 8:23 PM
    #189
    euroshowoff

    euroshowoff Well-Known Member

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    So technically should I be able to turn the lights on without the key being in the "on" position? Because currently the lights and illumination only work when the key is turned to the "on" position. I thought the add a fuse circuit is only to power the top/bottom leds. It appears that the switch only gets power when key is in the ignition.

    I wonder if somehow I have the wires reversed either at the toggle switch or at the relay.
     
  10. Jul 7, 2015 at 8:27 PM
    #190
    Sandman614

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    Pm'd
     
    Last edited: Jul 7, 2015
  11. Jul 7, 2015 at 8:50 PM
    #191
    Sandman614

    Sandman614 Snarky TWSS elf, Travis #hotsavannahdotcom, LRGRNR

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    Just for visibility
     
  12. Jul 8, 2015 at 5:40 AM
    #192
    MTopp

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    Interesting. I didn't look into how he wired the relay..+1
     
    think333 likes this.
  13. Jul 30, 2015 at 9:56 PM
    #193
    MTopp

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    Installed last week or before that

     
    ETAV8R and Toynado like this.
  14. Aug 26, 2015 at 9:49 AM
    #194
    RI Tacoma

    RI Tacoma Well-Known Member

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    Did anyone do an install with ignition power instead of having power 100% of the time?

    I am thinking of running a line from battery -> breaker -> 100a Relay ->fuse panel. Anyone done it? Should be pretty simple, correct?
     
  15. Aug 26, 2015 at 9:53 AM
    #195
    Sandman614

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    Yea simple, but what's the reason for a breaker and a relay?
     
  16. Aug 26, 2015 at 10:00 AM
    #196
    RI Tacoma

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    Breaker so I can shut power off if I want/need. The relay is just so I can have the fuse panel working off the ignition rather than direct power.
     
  17. Aug 26, 2015 at 10:05 AM
    #197
    Chepo

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    Lots...
    Good idea, but sometimes you need some stuff to keep running without leaving the truck "on".

    I use Strobe lights (in case of emergency), rear lights, side lights (in the future), front lights and extra power outlet... Why? because when I'm camping I always prefer to only keep the lights/stuff I'm using, instead of having all the electronics of the truck everytime I need a light or power


    What I would do is to run a "signal" cable that would be hot when on to all the switches you want to turn on only when you have your truck on....
     
  18. Aug 26, 2015 at 10:10 AM
    #198
    plurpimpin

    plurpimpin Well-Known Member

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    I ran power straight to mine from the battery and just use a relay with ignition power when I wire up my accessories.
     
  19. Aug 26, 2015 at 10:11 AM
    #199
    RI Tacoma

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    I get what you are saying.

    The stuff that I already have wired via an add a fuse that I dont want on full power are radar, XM, rear window actuator, heated seats, heated mirrors, HID's and LED Light bar. None of which I really need to have full time power.

    This one would work?

    http://www.amazon.com/Support-Heavy...pebp=1440609066677&perid=03GNM8XD3RH0RF6ZT7FX
     
  20. Oct 13, 2015 at 10:04 AM
    #200
    FawkQ

    FawkQ Well-Known Member

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    as an avionics technician... I approve of your wiring sir, couple wires exceed their bend radius, but I still like
     
    Last edited: Oct 13, 2015

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