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HOW-TO: Snorkel on a Budget - Tips and Advice

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by Benson X, Sep 17, 2015.

  1. Sep 17, 2015 at 12:28 AM
    #1
    Benson X

    Benson X [OP] My build thread sucks...

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    If you don't draw blood, you're doing it wrong!
    There are a few of these threads floating around and some helpful posts scattered around TW, but here's another one for ya! :D

    The snorkel I used is similar (i.e. identical) to the Safari SS135 for the HiLux, that Dave (@TACODOC1) installed for cruiseroutfitters.com. He was the "OG" guinea pig who first tested this out on a Tacoma years ago. Thanks for paving the way Dave! :thumbsup:

    • I ordered the snorkel directly from China :eek: for about $120 shipped. They can be sourced from various vendors: eBay, Amazon, Alibaba, DHGate etc. just make sure you order the HiLux 167R series (could be dubbed the SS135HF/SS136F or something similar).

      This is the exact one I purchased from Unity4WD (Chinese ARB ripoff company):
      http://www.4x4order.com/page85?product_id=393
      [​IMG]
    • It took only 5 days to be delivered to my house - and the quality of the snorkel itself is actually really good!

      However, the included template is absolute garbage! Even if used for a reference, it did not have any holes punched through, and when I inserted the studs in the snorkel and laid it on top of the template the marks were almost 1/2" off from the studs! I threw it away.

    Here's a brief step-by-step, with some tips/things I learned during the install.

    1. Drink a beer and come to grips with the fact you are about to drill a BIG FUCKIN' HOLE and bunch of smaller holes in your fender! It REALLY helps to have another set of hands and a drinking buddy to support you if shit goes bad! :) :sawzall::drunk:

    2. Tape off the Fender and Pillar with a couple layers of painter's tape.

    3. You will have to fold back the inner fender liner. The plastic clips in the engine bay are easy to get out, but I struggled with the 2 that have the fender flares screwed into them. I ended up just pulling the fender liner through and it survived with no damage. I hate those stupid clips!

    4. Since I threw out my template, I had to get creative. I took a piece of thin cardboard (but corrugated would work too) and pressed it onto the snorkel with the studs installed. This pushed the studs through in the correct spots. With the cardboard still in place, I traced around the snorkel with a sharpie. I also traced around the radius of the inlet pipe, so I knew where the center point would be, then cut out my new "Ghetto Template".

    5. I used the Ghetto Template and the snorkel (studs and pillar bracket installed) to test fit numerous times. I must've checked 15 times before finally marking my holes. I paid CLOSE attention to the antenna indent and pillar bracket to find the sweet spot.

    I also used the top of the fender (hood line) as my horizontal parallel to check against the snorkel -- this seemed to work best, rather than the body lines or fender flare.

    Once I found the best spot, I marked my holes through the template onto the painter's tape, and used a center punch on each of them...this was the point of no return, DRINK A BEER! o_O

    6. I drilled the holes with a 11/16" bit and an 83mm (3.25") Hole Saw (yes 83mm not 92mm). I chose a smaller hole saw, because the OD of the outlet tube was just about 3.25" and I didn't feel the need to make it so big. I measured about 1.5" to the left of the big hole, and used a Dremel and small cutoff wheel to make the hole oblong/oval *this is required to fit the angled outlet hose into the hole:
    [​IMG]

    7.
    TEST FIT TIME!!! Drink another beer (you deserve it ;))
    [​IMG]

    After inspecting the initial fitment, I knew I had to slot some of the holes to fine-tune the fitment. Other than that, everything lined up beautifully!
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    8. After getting the final fitment, I cleaned up all the rough edges and painted some primer on all the exposed/bare metal. Some people choose to paint-match after priming, but I didn't see the point - it's a hole.....in your fender.....that will be covered with a snorkel. I just sprayed some Rusto flat gray primer in the cap and literally painted it on all the holes front and back and let it dry for a few hours before proceeding...more beer? Sure!!!

    9. Now it was time to attach the rubber hose and see how close it was to the hole. I found the EASIEST way to do this was insert the snorkel tube into the fender, but keep it angled away from the fender. This allows for more space behind the fender to fit the inlet hose on the end (MUCH easier than trying to squeeze it on when it's tight against the fender!!!). Spit on it if you need to.

    After connecting the rubber hose, I could see that I needed to trim quite a bit off the hose AND the snorkel tube itself. On the OVAL part of the hose (not the round part), I cut a big chunk then smaller sections until it was able to fit in the stock intake hole without cutting into the metal.

    Rubber Hose (Oval part, NOT the Round Section): 3.25" trimmed, then another 1", then finally another 3/4" (total of roughly 5")
    [​IMG]

    Snorkel Tube: I trimmed about 1.25" off
    [​IMG]

    After trimming, I ended up with the hose in a decent spot, though in retrospect, I probably could've trimmed another .25" to make it centered even more:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    10: After making sure everything was where I wanted it, I added the washers to the backside and tightened everything down to see the final fitment. I knew the body lines would not match 100% with the snorkel, but it wasn't too bad! The front had a small gap, so I removed the snorkel one last time. I grabbed a BIG socket and "press rolled" it against the front of the big hole to smooth out the angle and create a slight lip to better fit around the snorkel. It worked great!!! This lessened the gap and also gave me a little more space behind the fender.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    11. PLUMBING IT IN!

    I know the 4" to 3" Fernco fittings are a great option, but I found this to be a better solution:

    4" to 3" (102mm-76mm) 45° Angled Silicone Reducer
    [​IMG]

    This eliminates the need to make (2) 45° bends in the pipe to connect it all up. This piece was $12 on eBay, but similar options can be found elsewhere for $15-$20. This will make it much easier (and less expensive) to have an exhaust shop bend a pipe to fit, since they should only have to do one 45° bend and then cut to fit.

    12. I went to my local exhaust shop, and had them cut/bend and fit an approx. 15" length of 3" pipe for me. I went home and cleaned up the rough edges on the pipe and of course had to paint it black. Connected everything up and voilà!!! SNORKEL!!!
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Oct 12, 2015
  2. Sep 17, 2015 at 12:39 AM
    #2
    Ihatetacomas

    Ihatetacomas Because tacomas hate me

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    Nice writeup!
     
  3. Sep 17, 2015 at 12:42 AM
    #3
    Benson X

    Benson X [OP] My build thread sucks...

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    If you don't draw blood, you're doing it wrong!
    Thanks Dylan, hope it helps out some folks that want to do this! :cheers:
     
    Last edited: Sep 17, 2015
  4. Sep 17, 2015 at 5:15 AM
    #4
    remery829

    remery829 Well-Known Member

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    Done, Doing it, Sold, LIKE! Nice job Benson X
     
  5. Sep 17, 2015 at 9:40 AM
    #5
    FIRE74

    FIRE74 Well-Known Member

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    In the works! thank you!
     
  6. Sep 17, 2015 at 10:36 PM
    #6
    Benson X

    Benson X [OP] My build thread sucks...

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    If you don't draw blood, you're doing it wrong!
    Thanks guys, good luck with the install! :thumbsup:

    I added a few more pics I forgot about too
     
  7. Sep 17, 2015 at 10:40 PM
    #7
    BAMFTACO

    BAMFTACO Another day another beer

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    Kings bruh
    looks good man
     
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  8. Sep 18, 2015 at 2:20 PM
    #8
    FIRE74

    FIRE74 Well-Known Member

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    What's the length of the exhaust tube you had bent? Thanks!
     
  9. Sep 18, 2015 at 2:23 PM
    #9
    0uTkAsT

    0uTkAsT Resident Outsider

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    Looks good! I heard bad things about the Chinese polymers these were made out of. Maybe it was ARB themselves that posted about it. In any event, good job!!
     
  10. Sep 18, 2015 at 2:49 PM
    #10
    Benson X

    Benson X [OP] My build thread sucks...

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    If you don't draw blood, you're doing it wrong!
    I'll have to take it off tonight and measure. I'll post up later with the length :thumbsup:

    Thanks man! Only time will tell how well it holds up. I wouldn't mind seeing a real-world test or explanation of their findings (like they did with their lockers). There is this page I found, but the info. seems dated, biased, and is most-likely promoted by ARB/Safari.

    But...

    After personally installing one, I can say the material is thick and very resilient/durable. The company I purchased it from "assured me" they use higher grade, all-new LLDPE. They sent me these images which mean nothing:
    [​IMG]
    I am not concerned and could buy 2 more for less than a Safari costs.
     
    Last edited: Sep 18, 2015
  11. Sep 18, 2015 at 2:58 PM
    #11
    Sterdog

    Sterdog Well-Known Member

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    :popcorn:

    I will be doing this as soon as I get the cash, and mating it to my Volant CAI somehow :D. I think it's very doable given the end on the Volant CAI box has lots of room for a rubber fitting if I can find/adapt one.

    [​IMG]
     
  12. Sep 18, 2015 at 3:04 PM
    #12
    0uTkAsT

    0uTkAsT Resident Outsider

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    Right on, thanks for the info! Wish I had known about this when I had my 2nd Gen
     
  13. Sep 18, 2015 at 3:12 PM
    #13
    Benson X

    Benson X [OP] My build thread sucks...

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    If you don't draw blood, you're doing it wrong!
    No problem!

    The Lab Report from that link I posted above is actually pretty damn detailed:
    http://www.dont-get-burnt.com/report.html

    Safari paid for the comparisons, but of course we don't know what China snorkel(s) were being tested. I do know when I installed mine, my brother and I were not treating it like a delicate flower - it got tossed around, pressed on, pushed/pulled etc. and it seems fine.

    I have no doubt it will kiss some trees at some point, then I can really see how well it holds up.
     
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  14. Sep 18, 2015 at 3:14 PM
    #14
    0uTkAsT

    0uTkAsT Resident Outsider

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    Like you said, the price is so good who really cares if it fades or cracks? Epoxy that shit back together, sand it down, paint it, and laugh the whole way to the bank. I dig it.
     
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  15. Sep 18, 2015 at 4:19 PM
    #15
    Usethe2nd

    Usethe2nd Well-Known Member

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    stuff welded onto my truck
    I installed a different brand than Ben did. But I was very impressed with the quality and thickness of the material. I don't see a reason to think it would crack or fade, then again I've had it on for a little more than a month.
     
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  16. Sep 18, 2015 at 6:26 PM
    #16
    Benson X

    Benson X [OP] My build thread sucks...

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    If you don't draw blood, you're doing it wrong!
    It's about 15" long
     
  17. Sep 18, 2015 at 6:32 PM
    #17
    Benson X

    Benson X [OP] My build thread sucks...

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    If you don't draw blood, you're doing it wrong!
    ..and some fancy pitchurrrs
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
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  18. Sep 19, 2015 at 8:03 AM
    #18
    FIRE74

    FIRE74 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks!
     
  19. Oct 2, 2015 at 10:07 AM
    #19
    SalmonTaco

    SalmonTaco Fish out of water

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    Nice work mang - I have been thinking about the snorkel mod for a while now.

    Have you noticed any changes in gas mileage?
     
  20. Oct 2, 2015 at 12:04 PM
    #20
    Benson X

    Benson X [OP] My build thread sucks...

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    If you don't draw blood, you're doing it wrong!
    Not really, but I also swapped wheels/tires (heavier steelies and E-rated Toyo M/Ts) at the same time so I think it's about the same.
     
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