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How To: Spark Plug Change (1 GR-FE)

Discussion in 'Technical Chat' started by chris4x4, Mar 16, 2009.

  1. Aug 5, 2013 at 8:36 PM
    #1161
    Dizo

    Dizo Well-Known Member

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    Your old plugs actually look quite good - much better than my original plugs did with similar mileage on the truck. How's the gap on the old plugs? The one in the pic looks a bit over, though hard to tell in pics.

    If you didn't disconnect the battery when you changed them out you might not see any difference for a while. Give the computer time to re-learn the engine. If you're looking for MPG gains from maintenance at that mileage, it's worth checking your air filter and throttle body as well as I saw some improvements after cleaning mine out.
     
  2. Aug 6, 2013 at 1:22 AM
    #1162
    GuyWithCamera

    GuyWithCamera Well-Known Member

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    The gap was pretty big in the old ones, That's the one that looked the worse... I didn't disconnect the battery but gave it a few days to re-adjust (~100 miles) until I started checking the MPG's again. The air filter (TRD 1st gen intake) was cleaned not long ago... How ever, I did run it without the filter cover for a while and put it back on the same time I changed the spark plugs so that might be why it didn't get much if any improvement. I'll take it off and run it for a week starting tomorrow and see if there is any improvement. Never checked the throttle body either...
     
  3. Aug 6, 2013 at 10:41 AM
    #1163
    Dizo

    Dizo Well-Known Member

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    At that mileage you should clean the throttle body and MAFS as well. http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/technical-chat/94203-how-throttle-body-cleaning-2005-v6.html
    Make sure you disconnect the battery when you do that. You will see a few miles of the computer being confused after that, but it learns itself again quite quickly.

    Haven't a clue about the first gen air filters on a 1GR-FE affecting things, so someone else would have to chime in about that.
     
  4. Aug 6, 2013 at 4:17 PM
    #1164
    GuyWithCamera

    GuyWithCamera Well-Known Member

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    Oh cool, Looks easy. Thanks i'll do that later today or some time tomorrow :D
     
  5. Aug 11, 2013 at 1:25 AM
    #1165
    cleveland48

    cleveland48 Well-Known Member

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    5100's set at 1.75, 1.5 in. AAL, 265/75/16 Cooper ST tires.
    Ok guys I changed my plugs last week and everything ran fine. Now I noticed when I back up and turn the wheel full lock to the right I have bad vibration/ rattling sound. At first thought my tires were rubbing so I checked everything at full lock and no where near touching. So I'm lost anyone have this kinda thing happen before? Like maybe I didn't tighten something back good? Just in case truck has 5100's on front at 1.75 and 1.5 AAL in back. With 265/75/16 cooper st's. it only does this in reverse though any help would be appreciated
     
  6. Aug 11, 2013 at 1:26 AM
    #1166
    650H1

    650H1 Well-Known Member

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    doesnt sound like anything that has to do with spark plugs :confused:
     
  7. Aug 11, 2013 at 6:53 AM
    #1167
    Agent Smith

    Agent Smith Always outnumbered, never outgunned

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    Coincidental. Maybe a bad bushing on your steering rack?
     
  8. Aug 11, 2013 at 6:53 AM
    #1168
    JimROCDS

    JimROCDS Active Member

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    Sounds like something in your front end differential.


    Jim
     
  9. Aug 11, 2013 at 11:42 AM
    #1169
    cleveland48

    cleveland48 Well-Known Member

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    5100's set at 1.75, 1.5 in. AAL, 265/75/16 Cooper ST tires.
    My last tacoma I had to replace drivers side front wheel bearing and passenger side cv axle. It doesn't sound anything like them just like a bad vibration cause I've not rubbing
     
  10. Aug 11, 2013 at 1:06 PM
    #1170
    geogecko

    geogecko Well-Known Member

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    When I put my 5100's on the front (0.85 setting on my 2005) I had bad vibrations but it was going forward (around 40mph). I had to replace the drivers' side front diff CV needle bearing with the East Coast Gear Supply bushing. Fixed it right up. You can check to see how bad the play is by getting under the front of the truck, reach up and push on the axel right where it goes into the front diff (inner CV joint housing). Check both sides, my drivers' side one was pretty bad after the strut change out.

    May not be your problem though, seems like its hit or miss if you get that vibration after lifting the front end or not. I thought I'd be okay with as minor of a lift that I did...
     
  11. Aug 11, 2013 at 3:34 PM
    #1171
    cleveland48

    cleveland48 Well-Known Member

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    5100's set at 1.75, 1.5 in. AAL, 265/75/16 Cooper ST tires.
    Ok thanks I knew some people on here had a bad vibe in the front sometimes. I could not think of what people used to fix that, but when u said east coast gear supply I remembered lol. Thanks for the info though guys I'll see what I can figure out
     
  12. Aug 11, 2013 at 8:23 PM
    #1172
    geogecko

    geogecko Well-Known Member

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    Good luck on your quest, hope you can sort it out.

    I took advantage of some time I had today, and did the old spark plug change out (125k miles), oil change, air filter change, MAF sensor clean, and throttle body clean. Took about 3 hours to do all that, but figured while I had everything apart, it would be a good time to do the other cleaning. I've done the MAF/TB clean before, maybe 90k miles, and they didn't seem that dirty this time, but still got some deposits off.

    Love this write up. Moving that bar on the fuel rail was a life saver. Still really tough to get to the connector on the drivers' side front sparker though. So glad I used anti-siege and a torque wrench on the plugs when I've done them. They all came out rather easily. Only one that made me a little nervous, a little squeaky coming out. May not have had enough anti-siege on it. Really coated all threads well this time.
     
  13. Aug 15, 2013 at 10:30 AM
    #1173
    brewster7

    brewster7 New Member

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    Thanks and subscribed!
     
  14. Aug 17, 2013 at 9:00 AM
    #1174
    FFMast

    FFMast Well-Known Member

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    Changed mine this morning. Took about an hour and a half. Its been a while since I did it last but after changing one plug, I got in to the groove and...done. Thanks for the write-up.
     
  15. Aug 18, 2013 at 9:12 AM
    #1175
    T Fades

    T Fades Well-Known Member

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    Great write up Chris! Couldn't be easier.

    Nothing better than spending a Saturday morning wrenching on the Taco.
     
  16. Aug 18, 2013 at 3:21 PM
    #1176
    JMLdawg

    JMLdawg Member

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    This post helped me out greatly! Replaced my plugs today with OE replacement and it took me about an hour and a half. Not bad. I thought the toughest actually was the front driver side plug.
     
  17. Sep 8, 2013 at 3:29 AM
    #1177
    empty hull

    empty hull Active Member

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    I changed mine yesterday and was very easy using this thread to refer to. Thanks to chris 4x4 for this thread. Tim
     
  18. Sep 9, 2013 at 12:19 AM
    #1178
    m_yota

    m_yota Well-Known Member

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    Great write up, just changed mines this pass weekend. And boy am I lucky reading this thread prior to attempting this! :cool::cool::D
     
  19. Sep 14, 2013 at 5:16 PM
    #1179
    othater

    othater Well-Known Member

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    Second time using this how to as a reference. Much easier this time.
    Thanks Chris4X4
     
  20. Sep 15, 2013 at 6:52 PM
    #1180
    RyanK1

    RyanK1 Well-Known Member

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    Great write up! Did mine this weekend. One word of advice, make sure not to over tighten the bolts holding the coil packs in. I made this mistake and had the bolt break off inside on the drivers side. So a fairly simple job turned into a slightly larger one. Had to remove the intake assembly to get the right angle to drill the bolt and extract it. 2 hour job turned into almost 5.
     
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