How To: Spark Plug Change (1 GR-FE)

It has now gone out. Now if I could just get the tire pressure light to stop flashing....

 

There is a reset button under the steering column. Hold it in as you turn on the ignition.

It will reset to the current tire pressure.


Jim

 

Changing mine now.
Pretty easy so far. Saving some big $$$$

 

Just did this on my 08 with 65k miles. Plugs in it were originals. They looked great.

Didn't bother with OEM plugs. Picked up some Densos at Advance Auto Parts.

I would not and have never torqued a spark plug. And I definitely wouldn't waste my time torqueing the coil bolts.

Once you apply anti-seize or any lubricant to a thread, you reduce thread friction and will have actually stretched the bolt (in this case, the spark plug) to more than what you would have if you wouldn't have used any anti-seize or lubricant.

I typically use my index and middle finger on the end of a standard size 3/8" ratchet and only use the "pull" of those fingers to tighten. Never had an issue.

Of course, this only is an issue if you use thread lubricant where it doesn't specify. I like to play it safe and use anti-seize on bolts that are susceptible to rust or endure thermal cycling.

 

After 30k miles on my plugs vs new ones going in.
Only took about an hour to do first time. Easy peasy

 

just imagine if you had a SCer!

 

Just did mine @ 46000 miles. Plugs looked good except for the growing gap. Decided to use all Denso plugs. Glad I did. The Denso ones didn't grow as much as the NGK ones did. Measured the gap and the Densos were all around .052-.053 while the NGKs were between .058-.059. Plug closest to the radiator on the drivers side was a pain to disconnect, but otherwise easy. Thanks for the write up!

 

just use multiple swivels and short extensions................and a buddy with small hands

 

1/4 drive variety works best no need for small hands

 

Great write up! 3rd time I've changed out my plugs, and with this thread it took me just less than an hour. Thank you!!!

 

I'm sure it's somewhere in here, do most of you guys change out your wires at the same time as the plugs?

 

No not usually. I'll probably change mine after 80k or so, but unless theres something wrong with them they should be good.

 

Hello - I am doing my 60k maintenance cycle today, including the spark plugs, oil, transmission fluid, and rear differential fluid (not LSD). I will be using the recommended Denso plugs, Toyota's ATF WS fluid, and their recommended 80/90 diff fluid.

This will be my first attempt doing all of these tasks, but the write ups on this forum are very well done so I don't expect to have any problems.

 

Is it overkill to change the wires with the plugs every 30k?

 

yes, unless you have a bad one.

 

Thanks Paul.

 

Question - I could get to all of the clip assemblies, but I couldn't yank 2 of them loose. (Driver side closest and furthest from the front). Do I just need to use more force or is there something i'm missing. Sorry if this is a stupid question.

 

Make sure you've released the clips, but some of them do require more force to remove.

On another note, has anyone used E3 plugs in the 4.0L engine? I'm considering getting a set, not for HP gains or anything, but to reduce the emissions of the truck. I'm getting to the point where I have to change the plugs, and from the research I've done, they reduce emissions and reduce fuel consumption a bit. For the tradeoff, it seems like a good deal.

 

Just wanted to thank you for the detailed post. I have experience working on cars but most of my time was spent under the good of older mustangs. With the help of our detailed thread I was able to change my plugs in an hour and a half.

Next up is differential oil and transfer case. Y'all keep it rockin!