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How To: Spark Plug Change (1 GR-FE)

Discussion in 'Technical Chat' started by chris4x4, Mar 16, 2009.

  1. Aug 3, 2014 at 11:39 AM
    #1401
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 [OP] With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. Moderator

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    FlimFlubberJAM
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    The light should go away on its own. You might want to see if a member in your area has a scanner that can clear the code for ya, if you want.
     
  2. Aug 3, 2014 at 12:14 PM
    #1402
    mnerren

    mnerren 2006 Tacoma TRD Sport XSP

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    I have been told that if you disconnect the battery for 20 mins it will clear it as well
     
  3. Aug 3, 2014 at 5:45 PM
    #1403
    Chappie

    Chappie Member

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    It has now gone out. Now if I could just get the tire pressure light to stop flashing....
     
  4. Aug 4, 2014 at 6:44 AM
    #1404
    JimROCDS

    JimROCDS Active Member

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    There is a reset button under the steering column. Hold it in as you turn on the ignition.

    It will reset to the current tire pressure.


    Jim
     
  5. Aug 11, 2014 at 8:59 AM
    #1405
    slcsez2000

    slcsez2000 Simon SEZ

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    Changing mine now.
    Pretty easy so far. Saving some big $$$$
     
  6. Aug 15, 2014 at 5:20 PM
    #1406
    tunabreath

    tunabreath Member

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    Just did this on my 08 with 65k miles. Plugs in it were originals. They looked great.

    Didn't bother with OEM plugs. Picked up some Densos at Advance Auto Parts.

    I would not and have never torqued a spark plug. And I definitely wouldn't waste my time torqueing the coil bolts.

    Once you apply anti-seize or any lubricant to a thread, you reduce thread friction and will have actually stretched the bolt (in this case, the spark plug) to more than what you would have if you wouldn't have used any anti-seize or lubricant.

    I typically use my index and middle finger on the end of a standard size 3/8" ratchet and only use the "pull" of those fingers to tighten. Never had an issue.

    Of course, this only is an issue if you use thread lubricant where it doesn't specify. I like to play it safe and use anti-seize on bolts that are susceptible to rust or endure thermal cycling.
     
    Last edited: Aug 15, 2014
  7. Aug 15, 2014 at 8:36 PM
    #1407
    slcsez2000

    slcsez2000 Simon SEZ

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    After 30k miles on my plugs vs new ones going in.
    Only took about an hour to do first time. Easy peasy

    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
     
  8. Aug 15, 2014 at 10:33 PM
    #1408
    BenMara

    BenMara That Asian RedNeck

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    just imagine if you had a SCer!
     
  9. Aug 17, 2014 at 6:55 PM
    #1409
    DPC08

    DPC08 Well-Known Member

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    Just did mine @ 46000 miles. Plugs looked good except for the growing gap. Decided to use all Denso plugs. Glad I did. The Denso ones didn't grow as much as the NGK ones did. Measured the gap and the Densos were all around .052-.053 while the NGKs were between .058-.059. Plug closest to the radiator on the drivers side was a pain to disconnect, but otherwise easy. Thanks for the write up!
     
  10. Aug 17, 2014 at 6:56 PM
    #1410
    Justus

    Justus fucks not given

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    just use multiple swivels and short extensions................and a buddy with small hands
     
  11. Aug 18, 2014 at 12:19 AM
    #1411
    BenMara

    BenMara That Asian RedNeck

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    1/4 drive variety works best no need for small hands
     
  12. Aug 18, 2014 at 11:34 AM
    #1412
    mattygaff

    mattygaff Beat em

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    Great write up! 3rd time I've changed out my plugs, and with this thread it took me just less than an hour. Thank you!!!
     
  13. Aug 20, 2014 at 1:19 PM
    #1413
    TanaTaco

    TanaTaco Well-Known Member

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    I'm sure it's somewhere in here, do most of you guys change out your wires at the same time as the plugs?
     
  14. Aug 20, 2014 at 3:56 PM
    #1414
    Ricks2013

    Ricks2013 Well-Known Member

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    A few things
    No not usually. I'll probably change mine after 80k or so, but unless theres something wrong with them they should be good.
     
  15. Aug 22, 2014 at 12:33 PM
    #1415
    acmariner99

    acmariner99 Member

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    Hello - I am doing my 60k maintenance cycle today, including the spark plugs, oil, transmission fluid, and rear differential fluid (not LSD). I will be using the recommended Denso plugs, Toyota's ATF WS fluid, and their recommended 80/90 diff fluid.

    This will be my first attempt doing all of these tasks, but the write ups on this forum are very well done so I don't expect to have any problems.
     
  16. Aug 22, 2014 at 4:30 PM
    #1416
    Silence9

    Silence9 Solve et Coagula

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    Is it overkill to change the wires with the plugs every 30k?
     
  17. Aug 22, 2014 at 4:42 PM
    #1417
    hotrod45

    hotrod45 Well-Known Member

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    yes, unless you have a bad one.
     
  18. Aug 22, 2014 at 4:46 PM
    #1418
    Silence9

    Silence9 Solve et Coagula

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    Thanks Paul.
     
  19. Aug 23, 2014 at 7:55 AM
    #1419
    acmariner99

    acmariner99 Member

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    Question - I could get to all of the clip assemblies, but I couldn't yank 2 of them loose. (Driver side closest and furthest from the front). Do I just need to use more force or is there something i'm missing. Sorry if this is a stupid question.
     
  20. Aug 23, 2014 at 8:56 AM
    #1420
    ZMan2k2

    ZMan2k2 Well-Known Member

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    Make sure you've released the clips, but some of them do require more force to remove.

    On another note, has anyone used E3 plugs in the 4.0L engine? I'm considering getting a set, not for HP gains or anything, but to reduce the emissions of the truck. I'm getting to the point where I have to change the plugs, and from the research I've done, they reduce emissions and reduce fuel consumption a bit. For the tradeoff, it seems like a good deal.
     
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