How To: Spark Plug Change (1 GR-FE)

Took some finesse using a flat-head screwdriver (to hold the clip release down) and a mini pry bar to get the last two clips to come off, but it got the job done. Seriously, those clips are the hardest part of this job, everything else took no time at all.

Now to relax and see about getting my transmission fluid done. Thanks for the write up!

 

Sub'ed

 

Just curious, has anybody gotten a p0441 OBD error after changing the spark plugs? I do have a non-factory gas cap so I think that may be the problem; the diagnostics said that it was due to faulty purging in the EVAP system.

 

Just finished mine last night. I bought my 11 with 45k on it and am at 598xx now so I figured it was due. Pulled them out and shocker they'd never been changed. Passenger side densos were opened up to around .050 and the ngks were closer to .055. Whole procedure took me about 45 minutes.

 

Just did mine this morning. Only took an hour & 15 minutes on my first try. Great write up and very easy to follow. I couldn't find any documentation on when my plugs had previously been changed by any of the previous owners so I just went ahead and changed them.

 

I did mine on Sunday evening, it took about an hour and a half. I have that smog thing so I disconnected the intake at the hose clamp. Some of my plugs were around .055 at 30K miles so I guess it needed to be done.

I had the spark knock tsb performed about a week before so I figured it was a good time to change the plugs too.

 

Just changed my plugs at 60,000 and when I went to start the truck it fired up but the check engine light is on and trac is turned off when I turned on the truck. What do you guys think is the problem? I gapped all the plugs at 0.40

 

What are the recommended plugs for the 2013 V6?

 

Never change spark plug, followed this step by step and worked perfectly! Thank you so much chris4x4 !

 

just did my 60K service. Plugs looked great except for the discoloring on the base of the "ceramic" top portion of the plug. I dont recall seeing this when i did my 30K service.

I did some google work and this seems normal, but the odd thing is only 5 of the 6 plugs had this. The exception was the plug on the drivers side closest to the firewall. anyone else notice this?

 

Very nice write up and detailed info.....

Well done OP.

 

Angled needle nose pliers work the best in my experience.

At 30k the plug on the driver's side closest to the firewall seemed "wetter". This is considered normal.

 

I'm not good at posting pics but I just changed my plugs at 58,179 on a hard use heavy towing 2011 DCLB 4x4. I have had at least 200,000 lbs. in my bed for 20 mile trips. 30,000 miles is way to early to change your plugs. I will mail my factory plugs with 58,179 miles on them free if you will post the pics.
PM me.

 

So you've exceeded the payload by about 199,000 lbs??

 

Lol...I was thinking the same thing.

 

What's your definition of "too early"? Do you run plugs until they stop firing?

 

Great information! Very professional in its layout and straight forward instructions.

 

Changed my plugs today.

It feels great saving a couple of bucks!

However, the old plugs look really bad. Especially the threads. I wonder if it is the anti-seize I used. Also, the center electrode porcelain is red. Anyone know what that means?

Rcky

 

Chris,
Awesome info thanks. Changed my plugs today. Took about 90 minutes.
Here are the old plug gaps
1L=0.050"
2L=0.051"
3L=0.050"
1R=0.046"
2R=0.045"
3R=0.046"
Anyway, I had a lot of yellow around a couple of my plugs.
I will upload pics here shortly.
If it wasn't for you write up, it probably would of taken me 4 hours. I set my iPad up by the truck and went for it
:Cheers: