How To: Spark Plug Change (1 GR-FE)

Can't upload pics.... the ios 8.01 update suxs.........

 

Great post, thank you for the time and effort put in.

 

It's possible I missed this somewhere in this thread, but for those interested, straight from Permatex regarding both their copper & silver anti-seize,
"You can use both for the block and spark plugs.
You can use both for the O2 sensors as well, just that the copper has a better tolerance to temperature."

 

I just got a case of 1lb cans of high nickel anti-seize from Amazon, 12 one pound cans for $37...and I think I paid under $20 for my last set of plugs from Rock Auto. No need to go above 30k miles since change out is so cheap and easy.

 

Took me about an hour.

I removed exactly what Chris did on the driver's side, but only pushed the air intake stuff out of the way on the passenger's side. Just worked around it.

Much easier than on a Subaru H6 engine! My record is about 2 hours on one of them!

 

Tomorrow is the day.. Nice write up!..If I have time the OME 886 too, just got my energy suspension bushings.

Still miss the old truck, this one might grow on me though

 

Newb first time post. Been lurking here for nearly a year now, and went the other day to accomplish the plug change on my 2012. I've been working on cars and stuff for years, but this is the first time I've attempted a plug change on something with the plugs recessed so deep into the valve cover. My plug socket (Kobalt, I think) fits into the well, but doesn't seem to have enough clearance to fit onto the plug flats. I've managed to get it stuck in the well (!), which I'll have to solve before proceeding further. Any tips on that will be appreciated. But my main question is what brand/model socket have you guys found that works well for this job? Thanks!


Update: I was able to extract the stuck socket after application of some light lube oil, whereupon I discovered that I had grabbed the wrong size socket. No wonder it didn't work! Thankfully, other than some galling of the valve cover, no damage appears to have been done. I managed to finish with a socket that has an attached extension that I saw at the local Autozone, a Duralast 75-520. The AZ website shows it at $12.99, but I don't think I paid that much in the store. I'm guessing that the plugs I pulled were the factory originals. The truck now has 70K on it, and while it's running fine, all of them had gaps of .60 or more. Thanks for the write up!

 

I'm doing mine now (A shout out to Chris, Great pictorial!!!) I am having a problem with the No. 1 plug (closest to the radiator) drivers side, everything else went like clock work, with a little finess I got the No.1 in place, All the plugs looked good, I think they could have gone another 30k, gaps on both the Denso's & NGK's were at .043/.044, but I am glad I got it done, not sure why, but it seems the truck is a little smoother

Chris, I want to say Thanks again, I know the time & effort it takes to post what you did, & I (& I am sure many others) are very grateful. your tutorial simplified this job!!!!

Plugs were overall in good condition,

 

I just change my plugs for the 2nd time. I was had 36,000 miles on them, and they were after market brand and needed changing.

I used Toyota plugs this time and the job was about the same as before.

Anyway, another bundle of money saved.


Jim

 

Been ages since I posted.

Changed my plugs today, not sure if they are originals, I bought the truck used from a Toyota dealer.

Anyway, 67,000 and some change on the the odo at change time.

Followed Chris's write up:
I moved both brackets on the driver side.
The rear coil gave me some fits as I could not get it to tighten down. Finally did get it tight though.

My old pulgs, the gaps were all over the place .50 up to .62.

I stayed within .40-.43 as Chris mentioned. Took around 2 2.5 hours all basic tools.
And the truck started and ran!
I am a damned mechanic!

 

Charlie,
I assume by now that you got this sorted out. What was the outcome?
I had the same problem when doing my daughter's RAV4 plugs; I used a long set of needle-nosed pliers (like shown in the first post) to grab the socket and pull it out. After that I just didn't seat the socket fully, just enough to engage the hex, not the rubber gripper. I used a piece of rubber hose to thread-in the plugs.

 

Thanks for the information, I am sure to pick up a couple of those sizes, spendy? yes! but sometimes when you need it price isn't so important. imop the 5/8 is a little sloppy on the plug, I wonder if a metric size might fit better? jmop

 

Round 2 @ 68,000 miles. Once again - Thanks Chris!!

It was 2.5 years ago (35,000 miles) that I did this - so yes - I needed to cheat and look it up again!

Plugs looked dry and hardly worn and it started up and ran with no hidden surprises and no hiccups!

Now, where's my beer!?

 

Chris 4x4,

Cheers for the write up. Completed the plug change a couple of days ago at 117,000KM Great info. I decided to start with the driver side plug closest to the front bumper(furthest from the fire wall) cause I figured it would be the trickiest and it was. Tight getting that coil connector off for me anyways. But after that one the rest on the drivers side were a breeze. And then after doing the harder ones on that side, the 3 under the air filter were very painless. Took all the air filter ducting off to make room. Parts Dealer said the plugs were pre gapped and after checking them he was correct.

Old Plugs were in pretty good shape actually but I didn't know due to first time changing since I bought the truck. Regardless, new ones in now and I noticed it does run better with better acceleration.

Was drinking cold MGD's with some Pink Floyd rocking in the background while doing it and enjoyed not having to take it into a shop.

Great write up once again.

Mike
Vancouver BC

 

Good stuff! Cash saved to purchase more alcohol

 

for reference thanks

 

Great write up. I'm close to 100K and going to do tune-up this week. Any write-ups on how to do radiator drain and fill (w/ pictures)?