How To: Spark Plug Change (1 GR-FE)

runs smooth yes. No parts left over. yes I put the anitseize and yes torque them. its run smooth. and no hickups or engine light

 

Or a spark plug socket.

 

Try this on a transverse V6 (any one of the 800,000 or so Camrys, Accords, or Altimas sold every year). Those plugs on the rear cylinder bank facing the firewall... The Tacoma is still relatively easy to work on by today's standards (and waaay easier than the modern Duramax or Powerstroke diesels, where cab removal for engine work is common).

 

^If you are just turning the extension by hand, without a ratchet handle for leverage, there is very distinct and positive feel when the plug has bottomed, especially if there's antiseize on the threads. Did this with my truck and my mower (aluminum head), no issues.

 

Exactly. i always carefully insert and thread by hand. If there's any doubt at all, I remove it and inspect the threads before putting it back in.

 

so how do I use a piece of hose?

 

Took me about an hour tonight, very easy. Thanks for the great write up. As for removing the intake hose, I just removed the part that holds the air filter and left the hose in place, working around it. definitely saved time there and it truly didn't impede my work.

Also, I noticed the NGK plugs were far more worn than the Denso plugs. So weird that they use two at the factory. The NGK plugs were now gapped to an average of .055" where the Densos were at around .042-45 after 33k miles

 

Not 100% sure if this is the correct thread to ask this question?

04 Prerunner 2.7l, I can't get the #2 plug out, in fact I broke an extension trying to remove it. So now I have the socket with the broken end of the extension stuck in the valve cover.

 

My two hands and the 3/8" drive extension "was" a vintage Bonney. I'm very worried the head is/will be damaged.

 

With the broken extension end in the socket I can't get it with anything as of yet. Monday I'll look for a stronger magnet, maybe with a longer pair of needle nose pliers.

 

Why do you need different sizes of the 10mm socket?

 

You need a left turn and a right turn one

 

Are you trolling? He said "10mm socket (3/8" and 1/4")"

 

Question for you all. I changed my plugs two weekends ago at 34K. First change. Indeed there were two different brands installed. I also changed my front and rear diff and transfer case fluids with Royal Purple. Everything went well. Great info here. I have been running an Ultragauge for more than a year and constantly watch my MPG. Whether the gauge is accurate or not I'm not 100% sure, but it is consistent for me. In town I average 15.8 and interstate driving I average 18.7 for the last year.

After changing the plugs and fluids my MPG has gone down slightly. The last two weeks in town have averaged only 14.9 and a 4 hour interstate trip averaged only 16.9. I used Denso K20HR-U11 plugs gapped at .040". My rolling resistance has reduced. There's a long hill I travel often. Before changing my fluids, as a test, I put it in neutral and coasted down it. It very gradually reduced speed before the fluid change. After the change, I now gradually increase speed on the same stretch. The engine runs very smoothly at idle (I believe a little bit smoother) and during acceleration. I only checked two of the old plugs and they were .048" and .049". They looked fine.

It will be 3 weeks this Saturday since I changed everything. I don't believe there's anything wrong with the plug change but I'm wondering if anyone else has had similar results? I was hoping for an increase in MPG. Thanks for your replies.

Bob

 

BTW - I'm elk hunting this week and am driving a lot in 4WD in snow on Forest Service roads in WY. (I'm not factoring these miles into the average above.) But I notice a big difference in 4WD since the fluid change. Much less start-from-stop and coasting resistance. I'm glad I got it changed before this trip.

Bob

 

Hey, I thought it was funny

 

I'm probably not as experienced as most of the owners on here, but maybe the fluids need time to break in? I'm interested to see what other have to sa, too.

 

Bob,

You may consider opening the gap to .043 (max recommended range). A larger gap should increase the burn efficiency in the engine, provided your coils are working properly. Plugs gapped too small cause incomplete burn resulting in loss of mpg. Given that your factory plugs are gapped much wider than spec and the plugs were in good condition (according to your post), I wonder if the FSM needs an update? I went with iridium plugs and gained back a good amount of mpg. They're pre-gapped and are working great.

 

Fluids don't need a break in time. It's the opposite. The newer the fluid, the better performance you will have.