How To: Spark Plug Change (1 GR-FE)

I changed out the stock plugs on my 2012 at 48,000 miles. They were slightly more gapped then yours were. I gapped the new densos to .041 and also lost a solid MPG as well. I haven't read every post in this thread in a couple months but I don't remember very many if any members experiencing similar losses in mpg. I do recall some experienced losses by experimenting with different plugs though. Do you plan to re gap them or just ride them out until they open up a little? Anyone know how long it would take a plug to go from .041 to .043+?

 

Thank you Chris for the nice write up. Not sure if this was asked. Can I buy a brand of spark plugs that last longer?

 

Thank you.

 

Same happened to me after changing plugs lost about a 1mpg after the change. Probably because I gapped them to .041, but oh well next time I will gap at the max.

 

I changed my OEM spark plugs after 127,000 miles. The gaps on the right side were around 061, and the left were around 064.
Replaced with Autolites gapped 041.
I got 18.5mpg in the last 2 fill-ups, and 19.0 on the next tank after replacing them. No difference in how engine starts or runs

I don't believe 30,000 miles are required to change the plugs.

 

Great post, Chris, just did mine today at 35,856 miles. Yes, the NGKs on the driver's side are definitely the most difficult, in my case due to the access difficulty in disconnecting the electrical connectors, especially the front and rear driver side plugs. Quite a wrestling match. One thing I found, a standard 5/8" spark plug socket for spark plug removal works fine since the foam gripper helps pull the plug out, but use a standard 5/8" deep socket without a foam gripper for installation, so the socket releases easy and doesn't disconnect from the extension and stick to the plug. The old plugs' color and electrode condition seemed good, no abnormalities. Replaced all plugs with NGK, confirming plug reach and p/n with old, gapped all to .041", applied anti-seize, and torqued to 15 ft-lbs with brand new 3/8" drive torque wrench. Tested engine after completion of each bank, seems a little smoother than before. Then entered the entire operation and data into the maintenance log. Can't forget that documentation!

 

Knocked this out yesterday. Took my time and found a little under two hours had passed. Definitely helped browsing through the 86 pages of this thread. I was prepared for every issue that came up. Had three and three on my plugs (ngk and densos) and all were gapped at around .046. Sure it's just in my mind, but the truck seems to run a bit better. Thanks to all who have contributed.

 

Did my 30k maintenance yesterday. Thankfully this thread was a great help with spark plugs...that driver's side bank is tight in there!
Thanks OP

 

Awesome thread, lovin' all the money staying in my pocket thanks to this site! Just changed mine out yesterday - one of the plugs I replaced came out very easily, as if though it wasn't torqued last time they were swapped. The threads were a little oily and there was no anti-seize applied (or so im guessing). Should I be concerned? Picture attached - the one on the right is the one buggin me

 

I followed this write-up this weekend... Took me 1 hour exactly, Thanks OP

 

Does it irritate anyone else that spark plugs come in boxes of 10 from Toyota (see first post)??? I swear I lose sleep over crap like that.

 

Not really, probably some engineer and bean counter figured that's the cheapest way to package them and maximize space on a shelf.

 

Just did this on my '13 TSS 4x4. The Colorado trip just pushed me over 46,000 miles.

Denso plugs that came out were at .048 and the NGK around .053 with one at .056.

Glad I saw this thread before they got any worse.

 

Third time using this thread...great reminder each time. Maybe 1 hour this time.

 

New plugs installed this morning, about 2 hours and only one bloody knuckle all told. Information contained in this thread was invaluable, many thanks to all. As has been posted in recent pages for the 2012+ with the secondary air pump, much easier to simply remove intake hose from filter housing instead of the complete intake. We're good for another 30k

 

Swapped out my plugs yesterday. It was my first plug change on the Tacoma. Also took me a couple hours but I was intentionally moving slow. I can probably do it in less than an hour next time. Most important tool I found is a really long socket extension. I was using a 10" and a 5" extension together. The job would have been a lot more difficult if I did not have the long extensions.

 

Many thanks to Chris for writing up this how-to and for everyone who contributed. I changed the plugs in my 2012 at 30,712 miles the other day. It took me several hours, but that includes breaks to eat supper, watch the news, talk to the neighbor, etc. Plus, I am closing in on 60 years old, so nothing goes fast anymore When I change them again, I think it could easily be done in 1 to 2 hours.

Some observations/tips (I did not read all the posts, so I apologize if some of these were already posted):

I am not sure what the max gap is, but the original plugs look as though they could easily go another 30,000 miles:


Since this was the first time I changed the plugs, I wanted to give myself as much room as I could. On the passenger side, I wanted to take the entire air intake off, but on the 2012+ the air pump covers one of the mounting bolts for the intake. I found the air pump was very easy and quick to remove - just three bolts, an electrical connector, and the hose that goes to the intake (which is nice to get out of the way also). I know you can remove the hose clamp from the air filter housing and leave the air duct in place, but, again, I wanted to give myself as much room as possible:


On the drivers side, in addition to taking the grey electrical connector off, I found it helpful to also take out the 10mm bolt that holds this valve on. You can then move it out of the way to get a straight shot at that center plug:


I rounded up the plugs and all tools I would need far ahead of time. I already had all the sockets and extensions. As someone else posted, it is nice to have a 5/8 spark plug socket with one of those rubber things inside to grip the plug when you take it out AND another 5/8 spark plug socket without it so that when you install the plug, you can pull the socket and extension out without risk of the socket staying on the plug. I ordered the Denso plugs, anti-seize, and a Thexton spark plug tool from ebay. The Thexton spark plug tool is REALLY nice - I have used a hose in the past on other engines, but thought I would go first class this time. It really helps make sure you get the plug started in properly without any chance of getting it cross-threaded:


I set the gap on the new plugs to .043". I can't tell any difference between how it runs with the old versus the new, but it is nice to have done the job myself. I know with 100% certainty it was done properly and very carefully. Something that you can never be sure of when someone else is doing the work.

 

Just curious, I changed my spark plugs on my Tacoma 4.0 to the ngk irridiums and the truck rpms are more consistent but it feels like I have a slower acceleration. Any possibility why this could be?

 

Noticing any misfires?