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How To: Spark Plug Change (1 GR-FE)

Discussion in 'Technical Chat' started by chris4x4, Mar 16, 2009.

  1. Jun 23, 2016 at 1:58 PM
    #1741
    Mariotaco

    Mariotaco Well-Known Member

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    good to hear :) The one thing I'm scared of is cross threading
     
    JMoney[QUOTED] likes this.
  2. Jun 23, 2016 at 2:09 PM
    #1742
    jrzyshore

    jrzyshore Well-Known Member

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    I've done a lot of plugs in my time and this is one of the easiest. I while back I was able to change my plugs in the time it took me to cook a steak on the grill.
     
  3. Jun 23, 2016 at 4:47 PM
    #1743
    Polymerhead

    Polymerhead Well-Known Member

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    Well, you can cross thread a plug, or worse - snap one off, then it'll be $$ to get it fixed. Sounds like the chances of that are pretty slim though. Follow the tutorial step by step and there won't be surprises. The only step I didn't follow to the letter was the torque on my plugs. Tried to use a wrench that bottomed out at 15 ft lbs and it didn't want to click. I didn't push the issue since it was a 2 ft torque wrench. I just tightened hand tight then another quarter turn. Plenty of anti-seize on them to make the next change just as easy.
     
    Mariotaco[QUOTED] likes this.
  4. Jun 23, 2016 at 5:00 PM
    #1744
    Mariotaco

    Mariotaco Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the advice, I will end up doing it, and save myself 90 bucks to go towards a leather skinwrap for the steering wheel. How many miles have you driven since you spark plug change? Just wondering because I may also hand tighten the plug and do another 1/4 with the wrench
     
  5. Jun 23, 2016 at 5:36 PM
    #1745
    kullin

    kullin Well-Known Member

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    The easiest way to get the plugs out is to use a pc of rubber fuel line and push it over plug... Works great for starting plugs in hole also as its easy to cross thread one using a socket because you lose the feel...
     
  6. Jun 23, 2016 at 5:39 PM
    #1746
    Polymerhead

    Polymerhead Well-Known Member

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    Plenty to know if there was an issue. Truck drives smoother now, but probably more due to the tire rotation than the new plugs. Plugs were only 32k miles old and still pretty clean.
     
  7. Jun 23, 2016 at 6:07 PM
    #1747
    KenLyns

    KenLyns 8.75" Third Member

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    In my experience a rigid socket extension gives more distinct feel than a rubber hose. Just turn the socket extension with your fingers. If you use antiseize on the threads, the plugs go in extremely smooth, and it's very apparent when the plugs have bottomed, at which point you snap on a ratchet handle and give it another half a turn. Did this with the Taco and my Honda-engined lawn mower (which also has an aluminum head).
     
  8. Jun 23, 2016 at 7:57 PM
    #1748
    mrlee

    mrlee I like crunchy Tacos!!

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    To remove the plugs, I just used a normal spark plug socket. I did acquire an extension set where you have to release the socket. Basically, the socket won't come off the extension without releasing it. Made it all easy-peasy. My socket is probably 20 years old and still holds on to the plugs. Old SK brand socket. Damn they have lasted, don't have many of those left. Not even sure if they are even still made.

    Installed using the same method in reverse, but always started threading by hand on the extension. Once you do one, you'll know how it feels if you're cross threading or not.

    Just take your time. Do one at a time and you'll be fine.
     
    TacomaCZman likes this.
  9. Jun 24, 2016 at 2:27 PM
    #1749
    Zoot

    Zoot Well-Known Member

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    Set the plug in hole with ratchet and push down slightly, turn it backwards as if you were removing it until you feel it clear the top thread and drop down into engine, then start tightening by hand. Ive never cross threaded nothin' but this retarded ikea bookshelf.
     
    Mariotaco likes this.
  10. Jun 27, 2016 at 8:33 AM
    #1750
    heedfulCrayon

    heedfulCrayon Member

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    So I just replaced my plugs this weekend at 120K miles. Plugs came out with one side NGK and the other side Denso... so I'm pretty sure they were the original plugs. The engine runs much better now.

    One question I do have is, are the cables supposed to be replaced at any point in time? Seems like it would be a pain in the butt to replace them.
     
    1Shifter and kullin like this.
  11. Jun 27, 2016 at 1:59 PM
    #1751
    Chris(NJ)

    Chris(NJ) Well-Known Member

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    There shouldn't be any reason to change the wiring harness going to them.
    If, for some reason, your connectors corrode, you could splice a new connector on there, but that'd be about it.
     
    heedfulCrayon[QUOTED] likes this.
  12. Jun 27, 2016 at 4:27 PM
    #1752
    linkfeeney

    linkfeeney Well-Known Member

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    wow, you waited 120k to change your plugs? that's pretty hardcore!
     
  13. Jun 27, 2016 at 4:50 PM
    #1753
    heedfulCrayon

    heedfulCrayon Member

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    Actually I bought the truck at a dealer at 110k miles. Apparently the truck's maintenance was not up to date like they claimed
     
  14. Jun 28, 2016 at 6:48 AM
    #1754
    KenLyns

    KenLyns 8.75" Third Member

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    Did you measure the gaps of the 120k plugs? Would be interesting to see.

    It's coil-on-plug ignition. No need to replace the wires since they carry low voltage and aren't as susceptible to dielectric breakdown.
     
    ninjastar808 likes this.
  15. Jun 28, 2016 at 2:45 PM
    #1755
    ninjastar808

    ninjastar808 flaccid member

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    Mine are about to be done in the 2nd weekend of July. Got mine at a stealership @ 103k and it's been feeling sluggish lately @ 113k. I just hope that I don't pull out original plugs also o_O would be a sad sight.. I'll measure the old ones tho and update :thumbsup:
    Thanks for the write up! Will be doing it every 30k for sure :D
     
  16. Jun 28, 2016 at 6:39 PM
    #1756
    heedfulCrayon

    heedfulCrayon Member

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    Just measured the gaps on my old plugs, 2 were at .066, 2 at .058, 2 at .060... definitely should have been changed a while ago
     
  17. Jun 30, 2016 at 4:16 PM
    #1757
    KenLyns

    KenLyns 8.75" Third Member

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    ^That's not too bad for 120k, actually. Mine at 31k were .055 on the RH bank (Denso) and .061 on the LH bank (NGK).
     
  18. Jun 30, 2016 at 5:22 PM
    #1758
    linkfeeney

    linkfeeney Well-Known Member

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    I have to do my truck soon... I did 30k, 60k, then I got lazy, almost at 120k now... also thinking getting a new torque wrench... tekton, i see people are reviewing them and a lot of 4-5 stars on Amazon.
     
  19. Jun 30, 2016 at 8:58 PM
    #1759
    Sandman614

    Sandman614 Ex-Snarky TWSS elf, Travis #hotsavannahdotcom

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    Here's a short review on my Harbor Freight (Pittsburgh) 1/2" Torque wrench. My buddy took it to his work and had it tested. It rang in at 2ft/lbs low. I'm happy with that for $10
     
  20. Jul 1, 2016 at 2:58 PM
    #1760
    Chephie

    Chephie Well-Known Member

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    I've been pleased with my Tekton torque wrenches. I have both the 1/2" and 3/8", for what I do they fit the bill.
     

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