How To: Spark Plug Change (1 GR-FE)

I agree that's one of the biggest pros to doing the work yourself you know exactly what products were actually used on your vehicle.

 

30k huh? Thought most new cars were 100k? Why such short intervals on this motor?

 

100k for iridium plugs, 30k for platinum plugs. Motor has little to do with it.

 

Since Toyota doesn't install either platinum or iridium from the factory in the 4.0L so the regular interval for a copper spark plug should be followed. I'm not sure this is well known that the 4.0L doesn't have forever spark plugs, but it's right in the maintenance schedule, 30K intervals for the 1GR-FE.

http://www.toyota.com/t3Portal/document/omms-s/T-MMS-08Tacoma/pdf/T-MMS-08Tacoma.pdf (2008 for reference)

The 2.7L has iridium tipped plugs from the factory and those are scheduled for replacement at 120K miles. But I'll mention that if you leave spark plugs in for 120,000 miles it's possible you might just as well leave them in forever since they probably won't come out without some fight.

 

so can I replace with iridium plugs?

 

I'm not sure what the ramifications of this, nickel-copper plugs are usually the higher performing plug with the platinum and iridium tips being used primarily for their longevity. I'd stick with the NGK or Denso that Toyota recommends personally but it probably doesn't matter really since the ECU and ignition will compensate.

 

I replaced the stock plugs with iridium plugs last week. Good to go so far.

 

I changed mine at 35k, I'm doing then again soon as I am around 63k now. Got them at the dealer and the parts guy suggested I change the PCV valve as well since I'm down there doing the plugs. It was $6 so I grabbed that too. Anyone else do the PCV valve when they did their plugs?

 

I had an hour or so of free time today so I changed the passenger side plugs. They were done about 30k ago by me. They looked ok, the gaps were around .045 on the ones I removed.
I also cleaned the MAF sensor and throttle body. Which was pretty easy.
Tomorrow I'll change out the drivers side and PCV valve.
One plug looked a little burned around the ceramic... is this normal?

 

Are those the factory type? What grade and octane gas do you typically use? What torque did you use on the plugs and any anti-seize. That can happen when you burn lean but I don't think that's what's happened.

That discoloration is probably a plug that's not torqued high enough into the cylinder head.

https://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/EngineMechanical.html

Scroll down to "What Happens When Plugs are Installed Incorrectly?" and you'll find the description for this image.



I've always used copper anti-seize on my spark plugs (I'm paranoid) but any time you use thread compounds you have to adjust the torque if the spec is for dry threads. Sometimes torque specs are given with a thread compound, maybe anti-seize, maybe oil (such is sometimes the case with cylinder head bolts), etc.

Anti-seize reduces the friction of the thread so I usually reduce the setting to 10% of the spec (or the lower one if two are given) to avoid over-torque. In this case the 1GR plugs should be torqued to 15 ft-lbs and I used 13. None of mine looked like but they were the factory set so no anti-seize.

 

Yes I did use anti seize, you can actually see its still visible on the threads.
I used Denso plugs from Toyota dealer.
I run 87 octane gas.
I am fairly certain I torqued then to 20ft lbs when I installed then. That said I have a 1/2" torque wrench and used a step down for my 3/8" drive spark plug socket on a long extension. Maybe that's the issue?

 

Interesting.

Looking again I do see the anti-seize. You definitely didn't under torque them.

I don't think a 1/2"-3/8" adapter should have caused that much issue, although it's possible (I'm assuming) you were at the very low side of the setting on a 1/2" torque wrench which can be less accurate than right at the middle of the range. Even so you should still be fully seating the plug.

I doubt you're running lean, but who knows.

Let you know in a few thousand miles if mine look like that since I did pretty much the same as you. It will also be interesting to know if the left bank plugs look the same. Maybe it's the anti-seize blowing out or letting gas escape. That's a major stretch but I got nothing else.

 

This has no affect on torque reduction/addition. Only the addition or subtraction of length from the center of drive effects applied Torque.

See attachment for equations for determining applied torque adaptors

 

For reference it was the front passenger plug that had the ceramic discoloration

 

So i originally changed my plugs in my 2012 tacoma at 30K with toyota plugs. I did not gap them and later found they were from Indonesia. I also did an air filter change. After this the truck seemed to not be as responsive as before. Changed plugs to NGK (Japan) and no relief but did not gap either. Recently bought an 08 R runner with the 4.0, It was very responsive compared to the tacoma. Had to change the plugs in it , Denso (Japan) and gapped to .043 and now it too does not seem as responsive. Am i just over thinking this or does anyone else have this problem? You mash the gas and it has to downshift and then jolts you to go where before it would just pick up fast and smoothly to speed.

 

I replaced the factory plugs with six

$6 NGK LFR6C-11 V-Power Spark Plug, Pack of 1

NGK LFR6C-11 gapped to 0.043" and it runs pretty much the same. I won't swear to it but it may idle slightly smoother and my first tank with the new plugs the mileage was on the upper side of normal. It certainly did not grow hair back on my head nor did I suddenly feel like I was driving a supercharged 1GR. I have a stick shift, though, which pretty much always accelerates responsively.

 

Yea mines an auto

 

Unless its an air filter problem. I replaced the air filter (Toyota) in both vehicles at the plug change as well Anyone else have this problem?

 

i just changed my brothers factory spark plugs they looked the same

 

Those are iridiums. I have cooper in mine