How To Trouble Shoot 4x4 Actuator

Are you mechanically inclined? Do you have basic tools available and a sauldering iron, saulder, and flux? If you answered yes to both of those, you don't need to buy the ADD front diff actuator. Pull your skid plate off, remove the bolts that hold the front diff arms on, then remove the ADD by removing 4bolts. See first page for pics. Now remove 5 philips screws, pull black cover off, and check the ADD motor leads for discoloration or singe spots. Saulder those (again, refer to first page for pics). Put everything back together. Test 4x4.


I am 3.5 hours from home for work, seeing the same symptoms on my truck, but going home this weekend and plan to take care of it then.

 

I have the symptoms on my sons 4wd. Problem is, his truck has a DB lift installed and it seems the bracket is in the way. We tried to pull the actuator off and the damn bracket is in the way. Anyone with this kind of lift have a solution? We want to plan a trip soon but his truck won't go into 4wd for nothing. Anybody

 

I can do it no problem. Used to be a auto mechanic for 25+ years so I have all the tools. I installed the lift on it myself as well as lifted several other trucks for friends. Did get the truck in the air this past weekend and tried it. Transfer case engages and front drive shaft spins but front wheels remain free wheeling so pretty sure the front actuator is the culprit. Hopefully will have some time to attack it this coming weekend. Just kind of bummed because I only had the truck in 4wd once before and now go to use it again it doesn't work. Truck is well maintained and never abused with only 30000 miles. Thanks for the help!

 

UPDATE
Worked on the truck yesterday. Pulled the ADD out. Top left bolt wasn't easy to remove but not too bad with a 1/4" ratchet and a short extension. Funny how that one was the tightest of all 4. Since I had a new ADD on hand and time was a big factor I just installed the new one. Took me about 2 hours total including time to run to the store to get a hose to put on the bottle of oil so I could refill the front diff. After all was put back together took the truck for a test drive. It works! Goes right into 4HI and 4LO no problem and lights come on solid. Haven't done an autopsy on the old unit yet. Got a little injury on my finger when removing the jack stands. (Don't put your hand under the stand when releasing it). I'll just play with the old one first chance I get and If I can get it to work I'll just keep it as a spare. My son has a 2011 Tacoma so he may need one eventually.

 

Very thankful for this thread. Got a call from my brother today asking about issues with the 4WD on his father-in-law 2008 Toyota Tacoma. After a quick search, this thread came up... sure enough, the issue that Tacoma was having was related to the actuator. Internals were corroded, and some contacts were beyond repair. A new one is on the way to replace it and get the 4WD back working again.

 

Any one getting a ratcheting sound from the front when it's trying to disengage ? Like a card in the spokes for us old timers lol

Thanks

 

I had a Jeep Comanche that issues with the vacuum actuator on the dana 30 and ended up drilling the shift fork and running a cable to the cab to be able to kick the actuator over manually. It really worked out pretty well and gave me 2low if I shifted the transfer case to 4 low and left the actuator on the front axle in the "open" position.

The Tacoma actuator looks similar, but I expect a similar mod would piss odd the electronics

 

Anyone?

Thanks

 

No ratcheting sounds for me. Check your CVs though. They will make that clicking noise when they are going out, especially in turns. Clicking on right turn is typically right CV axle IIRC

 

Its not a CV , when I disengage 4 High the light blinks and I get a ratcheting noise from the front right ish... wondered if I had an actuator hanging up...

 

Could be missing teeth on part of gearing so it doesn't fully disengage. Tear it open and see what there is to see. While in there, do the solder mod to keep from having to get into it to do it later.

 

No noise from mine. Meant to do the solder mod on the new one before I installed it. Only remembered after the job was done. . At least it still works!

 

Finally got home and pulled skid plate to get to ADD. Top 2 bolts aren't as hard with about 9" of extension once front diff bolts are pulled off. Just put 12 mm socket on extensions, and feed around hard line from the front of truck.
Found my ADD in near perfect condition on the inside, no solder needed. My problem is that a gear was broken.
I also looked up the part, and part number for ADD is 41400-35033

 

I got mine from EBay. Dealer wanted a little over $400.00 for the part. Got it for 247.95. Genuine OEM part. Still works!
Took my old one apart and it looks like new on the inside. No broken gears or anything. Have no clue why it wouldn't work. Just going to keep it for a spare.

 

First I want to thank blackhawke88 for posting this info. I was about to go in blind until I came across this thread.

The vacuum line to my 2002 Transfer Case Actuator broke and allowed water to corrode my actuator. I was able to rebuild it. I put a short post together in the Gen 1 area and wanted to share it here too. The TC Actuator Assembly looks like it is the same on the Gen 2 trucks.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/4x4-actuators-gen-1.456059/

 

Thought about you when I was putting my ADD back on until I can either replace it or the gearing inside. I jacked up my front end with ADD off and tried spinning front wheels to make sure I was keeping front diff disconnected. When I had the slide to what would put front diff connected, then spun wheels, I could hear a light clicking noise. Are you able to go between 2hi and 4hi without problems?

 

Got lucky, found a new actuator on eBay for $200 plus $15 shipping. It was also the last one from the seller. Hopefully it arrives home before I do next weekend so I can get my truck back up to par

 

Having some trouble with my 4wd as well, however this morning it was being weird. I turn to 4HI and it'll go in, light solid, then it'll start flashing green with the 4LO. Then after some driving it'll go back solid green. But then numerous times it'll start flashing again while driving even though it is in 4HI, it really is in cause I can feel it in the snow. This seems like an electrical problem to me... Had a new chassis in August and haven't used the 4wd until this week. Maybe a lose ground or plug?

 

Are you following direction on putting it into 4lo found on driver visor? What do you need 4lo for? 4hi spins front and rear differentials, and the only thing 4lo gives you from there is low range gearing where you hit top reasonable speed of something about 35-40 ish.

In case you don't have the idiot guide to shifting between 4hi and low, have the truck completely stopped. In manual transmission, put in the clutch all the way, then turn knob. In automatic, put transmission in neutral, then turn knob.

 

My 4 hi and 4 lo gives me problems every now and then with just getting the blinking light and a big clunk when going back to 2wd.

Was going to pop open my ADD actuator to have a look, and I have a 6'' Drop bracket lift, did you guys get yours out ok?