How To Trouble Shoot 4x4 Actuator

I'm in the same boat. Not my truck, but my stepsons. All symptoms present for ADD fix and a DB lift installed. And there are plenty around. Even on this site.

 

I don't recall it going in/out. Think it only goes left/right.

 

Sorry guys I used the wrong lingo here...

Yes the fork goes left and right...

My question is, while the add actuator is in your hand before installing, is there and wiggle in the fork up and down??

 

well here is the inside of my original add actuator....

 

for anyone who is installing a New ADD actuator.

might be worth opening it up and sealing it properly, as you can see from the pictures I have provided the factory sealing job is less than stellar.

I also bent the prongs and soldered the points on my new one before installing.

 

Have you tried getting the ADD out? If so whats the consensus?

 

Hey Guys,

Just wanted to say thanks for all the great info in this thread. My 4wd light was blinking and the dealer wanted over $1K to replace the ADD. I ordered the part on ebay and had a local mechanic install it, which saved me $750.

It's great to have 4wd again!

Clint

 

Still no one with first hand experience getting one of these out of a truck with 6'' DB lift?

 

when I come across one next I will crawl under and take a gander

 

No, man. ive been working like crazy for the past few months and haven't had time. Gonna be sitting around making a pulled pork today. Maybe I'll get under that truck today and give it another try. I'll post later if I make any progress.

 

Thanks, would be much appreciated, I had a look and it just looks REALLY tight.

Thank you would love to here how it goes.

 

Alright. My son is here now and I went back under to take a look. On this lift it looks like I would have to remove the bracket from the support along with the lca, knuckle, and the t case cover. Looks like it's held on with hardware. I'm doing this as soon as he can leave it for 2 days. Actually doesn't look like that bad to do.
I'll take pics when I start biting into it.

 

That would be awesome.

 

Hay guy looking for a new front actuator for my 08 .
Could I get a part # so I make sure I order the right one on line? Would this fit 4140035033

 

Just wanna bump this. Thanks again @blackhawke88 for posting this. Just regeared and afterwords my 4x4 wouldn't turn on, the light just kept blinking. The ADD actuator on the transfer case engaged and driveshaft was spinning but I couldn't get the front diff to engage and didn't hear anything happening from the actuator. Just now pulled mine off and found this-

Threw some solder on all the electrical connections just for shits n giggles, waiting on RTV to firm up before I add oil and take it for a spin.


That upper most bolt is a bitch to get in and out, even pulling the diff bolts to drop it a bit lol

 

well only two months later, everything has been working flawlessly... and then boom there she is again that pesky stupid constant blinking 4hi light again....

shitty very shitty, brand new poem part that was sealed bent and soldered before install....

at some point this fj tube retrofit starts looking good as a fix,

 

Yeah I'm probably gonna pick up a spare someday soon for if mine goes out again. everything looks brand new inside the actuator..the prongs were so far apart it wasn't even arcing at all. Just shoddy design right there. Save thousands of dollars in warranty work and put a spot of solder on it at the factory. jeez.

 

So brand new here. Out of curiosity has anyone tried pulling the cover off the ADD actuator without removing the actuator itself? It seems like that could allow you to repair the contacts without having to drain the oil from the front diff. I am likely looking at trying to fix my 4wd this week or weekend and am comfortable doing some soldering but I was curious if its possible to just pop the cover off.

 

Honestly I would suggest just removing it and working on in over on a bench. I think it will be tough cracking those screws free, removing the black cover, cleaning the area out of the crud that will most likely be in there, then soldering and sealing it all back up properly... I do not believe you need to drain the diff, barely any comes out, if you keep it tilted even less will come out IIRC.

 

There's really not enough room in there to do that. Trying to get those screws off and pop the thing off would be a bitch. Plus soldering upside down and in a teeny cramped spot like that...honestly draining the oil and pulling the actuator takes all of 20 minutes.