How To Trouble Shoot 4x4 Actuator

I was hoping thats all it was but I know the fork is in the correct spot :/ I wish that’s all it was for me to solve the issue

 

I have a 2009 2.7 access cab 4x4 5 speed manual. At first when my 4x4 started acting up if I would turn the truck off and turn it back on it would disengage but now it will not disengage without manually disengaging it at the t case. I checked the front diff actuator and it looked brand new. No signs of corrosion or arcing from any of the connections. I then checked the t case actuator and it was holding a little bit of nasty looking water but nothing looked corroded. My last resort was to check the 4x4 switch itself. After I tore apart the entire climate control and radio and the dash I finally got the switch out. The wire running to the switch had power but there’s nothing happening when I turn the switch. The light still keeps flashing. The front diff and the t case actuators are getting power but nothing is happening. I have no clue where to go from here. Really don’t want to take the truck to the dealership but not sure what to do next. Should I solder the connections on the front diff actuator even though it looks brand new?

 

I’m in the same boat man. I’m guessing something with the actuator is bad. I’m about to order one from rock auto to at least test out and file out of it is indeed the actuator or something else. If not then I’ll send it back.

 

Hi Everyone. So I had the flashing light and actually had everything working with the fix posted here for the front actuator. As I was tightening the upper left bolt I snapped off the plastic nozzle for the vacuum hose. . I am sooo pissed at myself right now. Has anyone done this before?? Is there anyway to just get a new plastic housing?

If anyone has a spare broken actuator laying around that has a good plastic housing, the rest of my part works fine and I will gladly pay someone for it. alternatively I guess I could sell my part to someone and buy a new one. Please let me know if someone can help me out! Thanks!

Edit: How important is that hose for the overall functionality of the actuator. What if I just plugged the hole up??

 

What if I drilled out the hole a little and used some rtv silicone (like the red stuff used for putting it back on) or epoxy to hold the hose in place? Kind of like what is in the drawing .

 

I think that hose is just a vent. I would want it in to keep water out.

 

I thin I might have a spare one laying around, let me check the shop tomorrow and I'll let you know.

 

If he only needs the cover,
I’ll take the rest of it off your hands maybe that will cure my issue.

 

i have a couple donors left over as well if anyone is interested in paying for shipping

one had moisture inside but the other did not...

 

I’ll take one!

 

I will dig them out of the tool box today and PM you a couple pictures of exactly what I have here
Will also get a shipping rate delivered to Sac

 

If the plastic housing is good I will take that . Thanks!

 

For those wondering, I tried this out with the part installed. Given the short breather hose and the downward angle it didn't work to well. If I took part off and drilled it might have been easier to get the hose in .I just plugged the hole for now until I get a new plastic housing

 

Having same issue. I’ve rebuilt the front actuator, solders contacts, ensured motor runs under 12v both directions, checked continuity through all contacts to the plug connection. Replaced 4hi limit switch, checked continuity to all wires from the front add, transfer case, and limit switches to the 4x4module plugs and they all check out. I’ve double checked the 4x4switch and get a secondary one to test, pulled the trans actuator cover odd and everything looks fine in there that I can see. Last thing to do that I understand is to reset the tccm but am kinda hesitant... has anyone done that with success? I have no 4x4 right now n live in Calgary where we get 15 deg one day with green grass then 20cm and -20 the next lol. Snow is coming next week n I gotta get this sorted!!! Local trusted shop I run through is quoting 3k for trans actuator ‍♂️...

 

I am about to try the tccm reset myself soon. I have 4hi but no 4lo. when in 4hi the light still blinks and the only way to get it back into 2hi is to turn the truck off and then back on again.

 

The switch has opposing diodes in it that restrict the ability to check it for continuity unfortunately, they restrict/control the continuity to wires without conflicting the signal on the same circuit... if that makes sense...?

 

You should be able to test it with any decent multimeter

 

These ADD are shit. My 4wd was working perfectly after I replaced my 4wd actuator. I splashed thought a large puddle a few times to clean the salt off my frame. Now I’m back to a bad actuator, shifting into 4wd is an issue. No 4low and my 4wd ECU is clicking repeatedly trying to get the truck in and out of 4wd. Im sure my actuator is fine but the ADD system sucks.

 

Agreed! Wish they never shifted away from the old style. Those are tried and true! This electric business is fucking bullshit and makes my truck unreliable in my opinion