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How To Trouble Shoot 4x4 Actuator

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by blackhawke88, Feb 15, 2013.

  1. Nov 8, 2020 at 6:30 AM
    #721
    Benny123

    Benny123 Kid from the late 70s

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  2. Nov 8, 2020 at 7:03 AM
    #722
    6 gearT444E

    6 gearT444E Certified Electron Pusher

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    theres a mount on the back of the diff you can remove the front mounts
     
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  3. Nov 8, 2020 at 8:37 AM
    #723
    Benny123

    Benny123 Kid from the late 70s

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    Replacing everything worn, broken, and rusted.
    Is it as simple as it looks? Just 3 bolts to remove the pass side mount?, maybe 18mm?
     
    Last edited: Nov 8, 2020
  4. Nov 8, 2020 at 8:50 AM
    #724
    JDL1

    JDL1 Member

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    I just kept fighting it and was able to get the bolt out. I bought a 6 sided socket that was just a tad bit longer than your standing homeowner set and it did the trick
     
  5. Nov 8, 2020 at 9:04 AM
    #725
    6 gearT444E

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    it’s just a couple. Not hard to do. I would just use the e14 with an extension and a swivel socket
     
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  6. Nov 8, 2020 at 2:51 PM
    #726
    Benny123

    Benny123 Kid from the late 70s

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    Replacing everything worn, broken, and rusted.
    So I was able to finally get the actuator off after getting a longer socket. awesome suggestion. @JDL1 Unfortunately now all the screws are heavily corroded. Tried wire brushing them and picking them out but no dice. Has anyone tried to dremel off the heads then pull out the screws?

    Or should I just get another actuator?

    PXL_20201108_225409198.jpg
     
  7. Nov 8, 2020 at 3:02 PM
    #727
    6 gearT444E

    6 gearT444E Certified Electron Pusher

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    try spraying with a penetrant. Use an impact screwdriver to loosen.
     
  8. Nov 8, 2020 at 3:04 PM
    #728
    Benny123

    Benny123 Kid from the late 70s

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    Replacing everything worn, broken, and rusted.
    Yeah, Im soaking them overnight. I cant a good grip on them. Tried about a dozen philips heads. Keep slipping. Vice grips also slipping.

    Update: ordered a new one. Ground the heads off with dremel and everything corroded inside. Also appeared what looked like white battery dust.
     
    Last edited: Nov 8, 2020
  9. Nov 8, 2020 at 7:29 PM
    #729
    Benny123

    Benny123 Kid from the late 70s

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    Replacing everything worn, broken, and rusted.
    Question for the new part install. Using this site as a reference. http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/add/

    When I took off my 4WD actuator, I was in 2wd and the fork was to the left in this picture. Is that correct, or did it slip past where it is supposed to be?
    1.jpg
     
  10. Nov 8, 2020 at 8:57 PM
    #730
    JDL1

    JDL1 Member

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    I had to slide mine all the way to the drivers side to get the new one on. I gently pushed/pried with a flathead.
     
  11. Nov 9, 2020 at 12:29 AM
    #731
    Benny123

    Benny123 Kid from the late 70s

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    Replacing everything worn, broken, and rusted.
    @JDL1 did you push with a flathead on the actuator fork or on the pulley inside the front diff? Is the fork supposed to be between the pulley lines? Mine was to the left of both of them
     
  12. Nov 9, 2020 at 5:03 AM
    #732
    JDL1

    JDL1 Member

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    I didn’t/couldn’t move the fork on the actuator. I pushed the “collar” inside the diff over toward the drivers side since the fork was moved over to the drivers side when I unboxed it. The fork sits right in that groove
     
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  13. Nov 16, 2020 at 6:05 AM
    #733
    rktman

    rktman Active Member

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    Sorry if this has been asked, but I didn't see this particular question answered:

    Will the front actuator engage/disengage if the TC actuator is not working?
    My 06 Tacoma starting the dreaded blinking 4 lo light. I switched back and forth from 2hi to 4hi and it engaged in 4hi (now stuck in 4 hi).
    I took the front actuator out and soldered the connections just in case.
    With power applied to the motor contacts, the fork would move back and forth freely.
    I tested it with actuator plugged in (but not bolted up) and the switch does not have any effect on it.
    Thanks
     
  14. Nov 17, 2020 at 4:50 AM
    #734
    6 gearT444E

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    no
     
  15. Nov 18, 2020 at 8:32 AM
    #735
    rktman

    rktman Active Member

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    Simple enough then.
    Time to work on the TC actuator.
    I'm hoping I can just take the cover off and clean the corrosion.
     
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  16. Nov 20, 2020 at 7:09 PM
    #736
    rktman

    rktman Active Member

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    Got it fixed. I removed the TC actuator cover and found the outer ring was corroded. A little emery cloth and dielectric grease later, everything works as it should. I also replaced the vent hose to make sure water doesn't enter again. This really is a poor design for a critical component..
     
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  17. Nov 21, 2020 at 12:44 PM
    #737
    Ibocnet

    Ibocnet Well-Known Member

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    Which screws bolts did you take off to get the cover off?
     
  18. Nov 21, 2020 at 9:15 PM
    #738
    WalkingStick

    WalkingStick Member

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    I got a question guys. There may be an answer already in here but that's hundreds of posts to look through, at least.
    I have a 2nd gen & had the whole front diff replaced cause 4 wheel drive wouldn't engage (more to it but that's the short story). At a dealership.
    I used to be able to engage 4x4 while driving at a lower rate of speed, say 35-40, if I was coming up on some snow blown road. Or engage it on a dry road before getting into mud...now I can't.
    Took it back, we drove around the dealership a few times and got it to work and they say it's fine but I know my truck & I should be able to put it in 4x4 anytime I want, wherever.
    It has a Magnuson SC so even when it rains I need that help to get going in the rain from a stop light up to 25mph.
    Can anyone give me an idea what the prob might be so I'm better prepared when I go to the dealer, so they'll listen.
    Charlie
     
  19. Nov 23, 2020 at 5:53 AM
    #739
    rktman

    rktman Active Member

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    The 3 10 mm bolts on the black cover.

    PS, I found this video to be helpful: https://youtu.be/n3NN5wYbDqA
     
    Last edited: Nov 23, 2020
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  20. Nov 30, 2020 at 9:10 AM
    #740
    rns0504

    rns0504 Well-Known Member

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    'Stock-But-Capable' - I have four other 4x4s to mod
    Browsed most of this thread and have not seen a problem quite like mine

    I had problems with both the front ADD (motor rusted solid) and also the transfer case actuator (contacts corroded).

    I've purchased a replacement ADD (Cheap ebay), and repaired the TC actuator. TC actuator motor moves freely in both directions. I get good continuity between pins 3+4 (4LO), Pins 4+5 (2HI) and pins 4+6 as needed in each position. Never more than one pair at a time (which would be bad). Resistance less than 1ohm.

    Limit switches tested OK, but I replaced 4Hi anyways.

    If I take the ADD and manually apply voltage to the motor pins to 2WD position (collar closer to 'box'), place actuator in 2HI position and verify by testing continuity at pins, push the shift lever in to 2HI, attach actuator to shaft and install gear, and do not connect limit switch connectors, there is NO blinking light. If I plug in the limit switches, all is still good (therefore eliminating a sticky switch issue - I believe if ADD is in 2WD, actuator is in 2WD position, but a limit switch is triggered, the 4x4 light will flash, correct?)

    When I move the switch to 4HI position, there is a successful shift to 4HI. The ADD moves AWAY from the "box", and the actuator moves to 4HI position, verified by removing connector on the actuator and checking the continuity on the pins (4+6). The 4HI limit switch also now has continuity.

    Problem is, the 4x4 light will not stop flashing. If I attempt to switch to 4LO, I hear clicking from the 4x4 computer and beeping (if in Park) or no beeping (if in Neutral). 4LO light flashes, no shift occurs. If I shift back to 4HI position with knob, 4LO light stops flashing, but 4x4 still blinks.

    If I shift back to 2HI, the 4x4 light continues to flash. There is NO shift of the TC actuator. I don't remember this second (not home) but I believe the ADD also does not move.

    I haven't started taking readings at the 4x4 computer for continuity yet.

    My *guess* is that maybe the limit switch in the ADD (new) is not working? Because if the 2HI -> 4Hi shift starts with the TC actuator, that shifts successfully, then the ADD moves to 4x4 position (away from box), but somehow the computer is not receiving the signal that the ADD has moved, causing the blinking 4x4?

    I haven't checked any continuity on the ADD yet. It's "new" but also cheap one from eBay, could be defective?

    When going from 4HI to 2HI, what operation needs to occur first? ADD movement or TC actuator shift?

    Any other thoughts / anyone seen this scenario?

    2020-08-06 18.51.33.jpg
     
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