How To Trouble Shoot 4x4 Actuator

Well I had this problem so I took the actuator off and soldered the motor like everyone said. Now it still doesn't work and the 4x4 light blinks as soon as I start the truck no matter what position the selector switch is in.

Looks like I'm ordering a new one and hopefully that'll fix it.

 

Yes I did and 4x4 was not engaged but still blinking at me and would not engage by me using the switch, my problem is the same as NickB as it flashes the 4x4 symbol and the Lo symbol in any position I put the switch in, I can only make the blinking go away by unplugging the 4x4 ecu above the glove box.

Already I have done the solder to the motor and tested the motor on the front actuator to make sure it was working and I have also taken off the rear actuator and it looks ok, but not sure what to look for, I am out of ideas as to what to do and now looking at taking to the dealer if I cannot get any other ideas.

 

Bump for Help before my dealer appointment on Tuesday.

 

Anyword from the Dealership?

 

OP I have already done this fix and reinstalled in and its still blinking at me. its stuck in 2wd. IDK what to do. Do I mess with the black box on the transfer case? My front actuator was super clean and nothing in it. But I soldered them just to be sure and the switch as well. There's not check engine light codes either? Please help anyone?

 

When I diagnosed my bad actuator I put the truck up on 4 jack stands. In 2 hi the rear drive shaft should spin. In 4 hi the front and rear drive shafts should spin. If the front drive shaft does not spin in 4 hi, you have a bad transfercase actuator. If it does spin but the front wheels don't spin (remember unless you have a front locker only 1 will spin) then you have a bad front diff actuator. If replacing those actuators still doesn't solve the problem you may have bad wiring or something.

 

They diagnosed it as a bad front actuator so they ordered a new one and it wont be in till the new year, I might try and buy a used one and see if that works to try it and not get the expensive part from the dealer haha

 

Well I ordered a new one online and after it came in my 4x4 started working again so if your interested I'm just looking to get my money back on it. $290.

 

Not a special order part, just expensive up in Canada, and with the dealer they will give me warrant on it.

Thanks for the offer for $290 but I am going to go with the dealer so I can just get it done and fixed properly.

 

I just sent you link to pdf that describes how to troubleshoot front actuator. I dont think yours is bad, more likely is not aligned or contacts that tell computer position of the add actuator are dirty.
If you have a place and time I would go through procedure to test it. Depending on which pins give you problems I would address those. On the end you may have problem with transfer case position switches. They are the things that put the lights on the dashboard (4H 4L)

 

Thanks for the PDF, I am going to try and clean the contacts right now and see what happens.

 

Tried testing and cleaning the terminals and got nothing from them, I have taken the front actuator apart and soldered the motor connectors together and used a dewalt drill battery to test the most and it spun up fine, everything had good grease and moved well, could a circuit board in the housing be fried ??? hence needing the new actuator, because the motor worked for me when apart ????? Any Thoughts. Also I have noticed that rolling the truck back and forth moves both the front and rear driveshafts, now does that mean that the rear actuator is engaged... but the front is not, hence the 4x4 light blinking at me and not engaging ???(this is on a 6spd btw)

Thanks

 

don't just rock it back and forth. lift the whole truck up on jack stands and have someone look at your drive shaft and front wheels while you have the truck running and in gear and carefully go through the motions of 2hi, 4hi, 4lo.


that will tell you exactly which actuator is not working properly.

 

So when you tested did all the tests turn out to be correct. Or when you say nothing you got no continuity?
I dont know in what position your ADD is right now, but when its in "disengaged" you get nothing, When you apply positive to 1 and negative to 2. You should see fork move. once it moves take power away from 1 and 2 and check if there is connection between 3 and 4 (on your ohmmeter you should see 0 Ohms )
Now if you apply reverse polarity to 1 and 2 fork should move opposite direction. Stop when its disengaged and 3 and 4 should have no continuity. (ohmmeter should show more 10k ohms)
If all the checks turns out fine next place is transfer case.

 

Sorry for the delayed reply with Xmas and all, I tried everything above and the fork did not move at all and I got no reading on my meter, I am guessing faulty actuator like Toyota says unless you have anymore tests that I can perform. Currently the ADD is disengaged also and I did not hear any sounds of the shift fork moving.

 

Get a new add actuator

 

Ok so I put it up on jack stands and the front drive shaft doesnt spin. So I guess I have a bad transfer case actuator but on the forums I cant find a fix or take a part on it? Is it basically like the front? is there anything tricky I need to know?

Thanks,

 

Sitting at the dealer now, new front actuator did not fix the problem, they are looking at the rear actuator now and using parts from another taco to see if they can swap something's and fix it, will keep yah updated.

Josh

 

Please do and how did they find out what the problem is? I don't want to spend money on a part that won't fix the issue u know

 

I bet if the dealer read this thread they might have your truck fixed! We are practically certified Toyota techs at this point