HP Tuners for 2005-2015

You’re welcome. Did you recently replace the battery?

 

Iirc last summer?

 

Then it can’t be that. Don’t know why your idle is low. If it’s not cutting off, misfiring or throwing engine codes then you may be fine but not sure.

 

Nope seems to run fine otherwise. Just gets to that low rpm idle and it's noticeable to me. Probably not to her.

 

Just means it has eco-mode now at idle!

 

My FJ (same engine) idles anywhere from about 550-600ish as well. When it drops to 550, it doesn't stay there too long and will eventually jump back up. I've actually been trying to pinpoint a certain sound I have at about 550 rpm lately, and only at that rpm. It's this odd almost purring/vibration sound. No exhaust parts are loose, and it almost sounds like it's in the dash.

 

I see similar dips to ~500 RPMs as well. At one point there was an adjustment to the MAF scaling that helped. That is all as desired now so I may have a mechanical issue. There should be the ability to adjust an idle screw on the throttle body. But that may be a band aid. I would like to confirm the "throttle position relearn" and the "Idle relearn" that is referenced by many others. Does the process truly make adjustment to our trucks? Does running the TRD with HPtuners calibration interfere with that? Does the truck relearn on its own? I assume the FSM would define these conditions.
I cannot remember how the idle was when I had the UCON installed. I have been curious of swapping that back in. I'm sure it would feel lethargic and the return to stock rev hand and throttle behavior would be annoying.

 

Haha, idle screw on throttle body, now that’s a blast from the (carbureted) past.

Why don’t you just set idle where you want it with HP? On our old desert Ranger (RIP) we set idle to 1,100rpm

 

Sounds normal to me. My truck idles 600ish warmed up. If it was lower/higher than intended you would get a P0505 code.

 

Just to add some feedback where mine is.

Drive:

Park:

 

I finally read through all 393 pages, and all I can say after that is thank you to everyone who took the time to share their knowledge. Like a dummy I had previously reached out to a couple members and posted some newb stuff, when instead I should have just started at page one and read from there. For that I apologize to anyone I wrote to out of the blue.

My truck is a 2013 X-Runner, currently with AEM intake, ucon, cam gears, 7th injector, 2.55 stealth pulley, thorley headers, urd y-pipe, and original cat-back.
At this point (I’ve had the truck since 2016), I don’t plan on selling it, so I figured might as well keep modding it.
My plan is to try to do everything I’ve seen you guys do in this thread. Sell the ucon and 7th injector, install equal length headers and y-pipe, a 3” cat back (haven’t decided what cat-back to get yet or to try to build something), a 3.5” maf tube, fic 650 injectors, and of course @JustDSM ’s help with tuning a spare ECU.

A few years ago I tuned my GM truck with hp tuners after heads/cam/exhaust, so luckily I’m not a complete idiot on how things work, but I sure could use a little help if some of you guys are still around and I ask a question or two.

With that said, I wanted to say thanks again to all who contribute to this thread and this forum. It’s by far the most helpful group of guys I’ve found on any automotive forum in a very long time.
-Bill

 

Kel, I’ve got an identical AFE air cleaner on my truck. I’m going to start taking things apart soon, ditching the 7th injector and installing a 76mm tb and 3.5 maf tube like you’ve got. Would you mind sharing the tubing sizes/or part numbers you used to build what you have here so it fits the airbox? It really would save me a huge amount of aggravation trying to figure out what to get

 

My new tune is so much better that stock (to me) for daily driving around, came out exactly how I wanted it to. I used a bit of the spreadsheet created by @nd4spdbh as a compare, but most of the ideas in there were similar to where I was headed.

I still have a bit of flare from 4th to 5th, which my new parameters made less worse and at lower speed than previous.

I've read that increasing the "optimum trans torque" table in this particular range could help. I have a bit of a hard time understanding what that table does exactly.

Also surprised finding negative values in the stock table in the area of interest.

Can someone enlighten me ?