Hyluxtek HID kit with CNLight ball bulbs

An H9 is no good for this fog light housing. The H9 at ~2100 lumens will cause far too much glare for other drivers since it doesn't have a covered end cap like the H11, so that negates the safe lensing of the fog reflector housing. I am guessing all those lumens going upwards would increase backscatter and glare in bad weather for you, the driver, as well.

H9 works great in the 3rd Gen low beam projector lens, but would be a bad and unsafe idea for the fog lens.

 

Ah, that's right. I had forgotten about the end cap difference. For sure, no-go then.

 

arrrived pretty quick, after doing LED, this is a piece a cake.

the aim seems to be spot on...no need for adjustment (blue tape is where OEM aimed at)? is that happen to you guys?



both sides' aim...


please let me know if I did anything wrong...thanks!


i kinda also placed blast on flat, cut up enough double sided tape that was equipped divided among the blast and relay.

 

Please do elaborate for me....

Is that good or bad?!?

 

I see....

Just drove out to get some take outs, love them! Really wonder how annoying to other drivers on the road...?

 

Probably less than ideal. An H11 Halogen in that projector housing has ~1100-1350 Lumens. The "squirrel spotters" allow enough light to go upwards to make it easier for you (the driver) to read road signs, but controls the beam enough that the glare doesn't overwhelm oncoming drivers. A normal HID projector does not have those rectangles because the HID puts out a ton more lumens (3000+?) and reflection/bounce off the road is enough to illumiate the signs for you. So yeah, while it might not be heinous glare, you may be glaring other drivers a bit with those.

I read on candlepower forums that it is possible (sometimes) to bend the metal tab out of the way which causes the squirrel spotter inside the projector. I think it said you remove the bulb, and from the correct angle you can see the metal tab, and simply push it with the eraser end of a pencil until it bends to a different angle which reduces/removes the spotter rectangle of glare. I am sure success on this depends heavily on the internal construction of our projectors and how thick the metal tab is. Anyhow, something you could try if you get flashed by other drivers.

 

my install went pretty smooth. the only thing that threw me off was that our man Scooby has a pic in post #19 of this thread where he shows off the beauty of wire wraps. so nice. i copied him... these are mine below.



but actually, after putting some time into them, they were not needed at all. the pic above is those wires after the lights, ballast, and relay are installed and perfectly working as they should. everything fit nicely, zip-tied right up, looked clean and neat, clicked into place, and switched on like a new HID set.

Thanks for the system design and legwork, @Scooby24.

I can confirm that the 2017 Pro halogen projector does have the squirrel spotters as you can see below (lights are a bit cold). I am not worried about it at this point since nobody has reported flashbacks yet, even when evaluating for it. I'll keep an eye out. Also, these are 35W, not so extreme in brightness that I am concerned for road use. They are nice and clear and perform well. This is a good DIY for what appears to be a solid product at a very good price. So far so good.

 

Hey guys, so I went back through and double checked and the Relay harness input is a 9006 connector. The polarity is reversed from the H11 OEM connector so if you were to try and plug it in the right way, first it won't snap because the plugs aren't the same, second the polarity is wrong. Flip it around and it definitely won't snap, but may not make a good connection either and not work or not work consistently. Mine won't connect or work in either direction without the Hylux included H11 to 9006 adapter. Using that adapter it corrects the polarity and is ensuring the connectors snap and make a water tight connection so I'd definitely recommend using it.

Updated the diagram to correct my mistake in clarification.

 

Ah! That explains the troubles I was having trying to get this to work without that adapter.

 

Yup, sorry for the bad info earlier...mine wouldn't work without it either and I forgot I was using it.

 

?

i seem to have no issues. installed tight with a click. is this something i should double check?

 

Now you have me confused too, as mine was straight plug and play. Fired up first time and have been working flawlessly for a couple months now. The Xenon light kit and Diode dynamics heavy relay all just plugged in together without a problem??

 

Here's what the OEM H11 connector and the Relay Harness 9006 connector look like together.



Note the polarities are reversed (at least on mine, maybe that differs on each truck), and the clip on the 9006 connector is set further back and it won't click to the H11 male connector.

With the Adapter, the polarity at the OEM end is right, and at the relay it's right too... and since the connectors are matched, each side clicks in all the way.

 

ok, where can i find the adapter, and what is it called?

 

You have it!

 

eBay no longer has this available. I hope they relist it soon.

 

They are also sold on aliexpress. If you use PayPal I'm sure you're still protected.

https://m.aliexpress.com/item/1828529858.html#autostay

 

I ordered this same HID kit and relay harness a few days ago. I already received the Diode Dynamics relay/harness and the HID kit is on it's way. @Scooby24 thanks for all the information, testing and posting. All was extremely helpful and I am looking forward to the install and of course the lighting improvement.

 

ok @Scooby24

it's been cold and rainy here and i haven't wanted to deal. but today it's really rainy and cold so today's the day! lol

i confirm that the polarity was reversed on the driver's side, so i inserted the adapter and it clicked right up.

it appears that you don't need it on the pass. side... is that correct?

the lights came right on with no issues.

 

Yup the harness outputs to the ballasts are 9006. That's the industry standard connector for these aftermarket kits so the relay to ballasts are all the same connector types, it's just the OEM H11 and the relay input 9006 that are incompatible without an adapter (unless you get lucky and the pins are able to touch!)