IBS dual battery kits

^this

 

this is an old thread.


anyone else have experience with this IBS setup?

 

Yes. sending you a pm now.

 

thanks bud

 

Sub

 

Why would you want the winch discharging the starting battery when the current load exceeds the current output of the alternator?

 

I've been running the IBS with dual yellow top, deep cycle gel cells and an Engo winch for a couple years. I've had no problems yet, batteries stay charged and if I need more juice I can always link them manually. I did however upgrade the winch cables and relocate the relays high in he engine compartment.

 

Revitalizing, if I may. I want to put duals in my '07. I dont like the 'dual tray' option with both batteries in original location.. I want to balance weight a bit. I like the space with ABS relocation - not sure what is involved as far as getting a tray, and those pipes seem pretty rigid. The PS fluid relocation seems decent too - just a bit of work as well.

I don't care about knowing my charge rates, battery voltage or anything. I am pretty much just going to run this for a 1000W Inverter in the bed (buildout for camping - I'll be doing several 1wk -> 1mo climbing road trips)... not really stressing anything out... just some music, charging phones and cameras, and running a laptop. No winch or high current stuff.

Maybe I should run my stereo off the second battery as well... since it will always be charging/charged while driving, and if I want to run it while not driving I dont run down my main.

I frankly dont see a need to connect both batteries manually. I guess its a 'nice' thing to be able to do but I dont see myself doing it... esp since I will only be using the secondary when I'm not driving.

SO I could just get a GOOD isolator, right. PAC 200 or Blue Sea SI-ARC, ???... I think some of these even DO let me run to an 'override' switch to manually join... this would be nice. I do like the few-second delay some units have... and want to make sure there is some level of overcharging control... but I think most of them do this, no?

So 2 questions really...
1) Anyone have more details on what is involved with the ABS relocation method or another simple 2nd bat install location
2) Am I right in needing just an isolator - maybe one with a simpe MPU built in - and if so recommendations?

Thanks!

 

Isolators are designed to allow current to flow one direction. Voltage is lost as current passes through the battery isolators. For isolators based on silicon diodes, the loss may be as great as 0.6V. While this may seem insignificant, that 0.6 volts is important when it comes to charging lead acid batteries. If the alternator is putting out 13.5 volts, the battery will only see 12.9 volts. Such a condition could lead to an undercharged battery and thus cause permanent battery damage. The other issue is because your batteries are starting at different charges there is no protection or monitoring if a battery is being over charged which can also damage the battery.

With the IBS system, should you run into situations where something shorts or begins overcharging you’re alerted and able to separate the batteries to reduce the damage/fall out. The real advantage of being able to link the batteries lies in spreading the work load and reducing the stress applied to your alternator and wiring. Because batteries having different lifespans, if you’re primary battery decides that is time to crap out, it’ll give you a warm fuzzy feeling to simply link the two to start up (this comes from a scary wrong place, wrong time, B.F.E experience.)

As far as location goes, consider everything you plan to add, your concern is a balanced weight load. I choose the dual tray because the convenience of the wiring and the weight was offset by relocating the winch relays, aux fuse block, ARB compressor to the far side. My concern about relocating ABS or PS systems is both run under high pressure and sure they can be relocated but how does that impact their reliability, also bending custom metal lines is a hassle and if you’re not experienced could be dangerous. If it were easy or reliable you’d probably hear about it more.

I don’t know what your plans are; if your vehicle will be stationary (while hunting ,fishing, hiking, climbing) for long periods in the back country the IBS may be exactly what you need to maintain your charge because it’s already set up to easily add solar, then that will save you gas too. That’s why it is considered standard equipment on expedition vehicles.

I choose the IBS and the duals in the home location, it’s been great with no complaints and that’s my two cents.

 

FINALLY getting to install this dual battery setup. I do not have the situation where I'll be sitting idle (w/o charing) for a long time. Really this whole thing is WAY overkill for me - I just need to be able to charge some cell phones and run my laptop for a while. I'm running a 600W power inverter and maybe some 12V USB chargers. Both the SI-ACR and PAC-200 are not diode based, so either should work. One is just 1/2 the cost. The PAC also has a 'delay' since the ON trigger (going to any ignition-on control) will be need a trigger high enough that it shouldnt be on unless the alt is running (whereas the blue sea has a 30sec delay). I just want to know that the second battery is not connected during cranking... seems safer to me. I do not intend to crank from the second battery. I know most ppl want that option but I don't at this point. So for my use I dont see any advantage to the blue sea over the cheaper PAC-200. I'll still fuse to 150A. I have the tow pkg so I think Im running a 130A alt.

I am also going to mount my second battery by the ABS - removing the tubing for airflow and installing a $20 air intake filter from the auto parts store - it only protrudes 4" so I have room for any size battery - just bolting in anyones generic battery tray.

 

I inherited a truck with one of these systems. Do I just run it on auto and linked for general driving or do I need to unlink the batteries? I am slightly confused on how it needs to be setup and if I get a dead battery at some point how I can utilize it to jump itself? Any help is appreciated. Seems like a cool idea.

 

Just run it in auto, hit link when you need to jump the battery. I've been running this system now since 2013 with no issues and no dead batteries...

 

Curious if these are still available? Most sites do not appear to list them any more.