ICON coilovers TOO STIFF

make the switch.. I did, and haven't looked back.

@RUSSELLTACO is about to also

 

This can be very true for factory valving on a custom built truck. This is exactly why we revalve each shock for a customers vehicle. We are fanboys of AccuTuned Fox and King shocks

 

Cool. I ordered one to allow me to soften the pre load a bit. This truck is mainly my DD so I’m too worried about over extending the shocks or anything like that since it’s not gonna be hitting any whoops or being mobbed in the desert. It will be takin on some mountain logging roads and light trails a couple times a year.

 

I recently purchased my 2011 TRD Sport 4X4 w/ the suspension already done: Icons, w/ 700# Eibach springs, TC UCA's and an ARB Safari bumper (no winch). Out back, OME Dakars and Icon 2.0 resi's. 285/70/R17 Nitto Trail Grappler MT (load e)

Here's what I've learned in the month I've owned it: The ride was pretty stiff, but most of it was due to the rear leaf springs. OME has the option of removing a leaf spring (third down from the top). I just removed that spring and the top overload spring. Additionally, I adjusted the c/o's to have 1 1/8 of preload (per Icon's install instructions for 700# springs). My truck rides great!

I've read many posts suggesting a Deaver pack in lieu of the OME and they may be the solution, but for now, just a little labor on my part and the springs are much better.

 

I had a set installed on my truck & the ride felt the same as the stock TRD setup. More controlled but just as firm.

 

Installed the 1/4” spacer on the driver side and dropped the preload to make up for the spacer. Was able to get 23” (center of wheel to fender) on both sides and 25” of droop (same measurement points). Rides much better now.

 

I prefer the feel of Icons. Some feedback on bad roads at night can be helpful.

 

I’ve had more than a few sets of coilovers on many different Tacoma’s & a 4runner over the years. Four were Toytec and two were the old Procomp adjustable coilovers. PS, those old PC ones were great and quite cheap on my 2000 & 2004 Tacoma’s.

The icons on my 2019 with all of the same sorta crap & lift height, ride quite firm. They don’t seem to like small quick bumps...the daily driving stuff. They do well on high speed dips small hills, but not so much on the local concrete patch.

I’ll keep them now, but if I could backup in time, there would be a different coilover on my current ride.

 

I actually have the icons myself and I'm kind of curious if anyone has figured out why they ride rough? Coming from stock with blocks beforehand it does feel overall better but recently road and a TRD off-road not too long ago and I really didn't feel too much of a difference between the icons with reservoirs compared to the stock Billy's... I have just a little bit less preload than the OP post but I'm curious Is there anything else I can do to improve ride quality?
Almost forgot I haven't done anything crazy with either set but on road and light off roading I didn't feel much of a difference between the two,

 

Some very conflicting info in here for sure.

so i have the 700lb coils on my icons and if I went with 650 coils (same 14” length) some are saying the ride would be the same (cause I would have to preload it more to get the height I currently have?

anyway I heard icon won’t sell you the softer valving stack..? anyone else know or if they will know the part number?
haven't been able to get into contact with them.

@AccuTune Offroad do you know by chance?

 

You won't get a PN from Icon but if you send to a service center they can revalve/rebuild them for you.

 

Not sure about Icon sending out shim stacks.

 

would you happen to know if the ID of an Icon shim (on their 2.5" shocks) is the same ID as a fox 2.5" shim? I have a lot of fox shims from all my old shocks and I intend on just doubling up the two smallest diameter compression shims (0.015" thick) at the top of the compression pyramid stack. I really like how the Icons work for all street driving and most off road situations. My only complaint is they are a bit too soft for high speed impacts.

**99% of my off-roading is done on desert trails at speed.

 

The ID's are not the same, you will have to order shims from Icon.

 

the Icon stem is smaller than Fox and even more so than King.

 

Damn it ... well if I just add a small diameter “rate plate” (washer) and drill press the correct ID, I may not even Need the shims from Icon . Basically replace the last shim with a washer which is wide enough to stop the remaining last two shims from flex back as far.

F it , I’m doing it. I’ll report back with how much of a failure it was lol. Trial and error right ?

 

Aloha Swiss rally man

if can, could use your advice on my LT setup: 6 months ago I switched out my Kings to Fox’s and even had them pre valved by Accutune (I wanted a soft Cadillac ride on the ripples of potholed roads)... $6500 bucks and 6 months later: still drives like a brick; even went as far as swapping out my Toyo’s to BFG KO2’s @ a D load for that softer sidewall

I’m running all 6 of them at 200 psi (Fox and Accutune recommended setting), and on my coil overs I’ve got an inch of preload on 650 springs

When off roading in the rough high speed stuff, there great.

...driving down my country road at 25 to 50 mph and I hit a pothole or just patch jobs: my cab shakes like I’m in an earthquake (have brand new cab mounts too).

About every week, I’ll jump out, make some compression and rebound adjustments ... I’ll think I’m happy (cause that’s what we do)... but nope. Shakes and rattles like I’m in some old beater.

As much as I love rambling off road and how cool our wide body prerunners look ,, there’s plenty of days I wish i just had my bone stock truck again ($30k later lol).

grrrr

re-valve ? Change springs ?

any advice would be great, cause I’m so close to making her into a Park n Polish, and buy a stock truck lol

 

All my long travel trucks rode great on road. You just need to find the correct spring rate (preload as well) and low/mid speed valving. Having a shit load of travel also helps keep it softer because you don't run the risk bottoming out.

Maybe try less preload on your coils. Thats free and simple for now.

If that doesn't work pay more money and have someone revalve them or learn how to do it yourself. It's not hard at all with simple tools and less time because you are not sending them off.

If that was me, I would open up any bleed screws in the piston, and go thinner on the three largest diameter shims for compression & rebound.

Another possibility is just run thinner shims on compression and use a rate plate.

 

yeah they use 7/16" ID.

I did. Went with mostly 0.018" replacement shims.

 

PM sent!