1. Welcome to Tacoma World!

    You are currently viewing as a guest! To get full-access, you need to register for a FREE account.

    As a registered member, you’ll be able to:
    • Participate in all Tacoma discussion topics
    • Communicate privately with other Tacoma owners from around the world
    • Post your own photos in our Members Gallery
    • Access all special features of the site

ICON install question - yes I searched..

Discussion in 'Suspension' started by flyfishinMT, Aug 19, 2014.

  1. Aug 19, 2014 at 8:00 PM
    #1
    flyfishinMT

    flyfishinMT [OP] Active Member

    Joined:
    Feb 11, 2011
    Member:
    #50992
    Messages:
    33
    Gender:
    Male
    AK
    Vehicle:
    2011, AC, 4wd, auto, 4cyl
    K&N filter, Leer 180, WeatherTechs, PopnLock, OEM knock off fogs, Duratracs, 16" FJ Wheels, Avid Lightbar, KC Daylighters
    yes....I searched!

    There seems to be 2 ways to install the fronts.

    1.) Break the tie-rod end loose by taking out the safety wire, loosening the castle nut and whacking it with a hammer.

    2.) taking the 2 bolts out on the outside of the lower control arm where the spindle and lower ball joint are.

    not sure which is best or easiest. I live in Podunk nowhere Alaska and there is no shop to bail me out and parts will take at LEAST a week (yes even with overnight shipping) if I botch anything.

    Chris4x4's tutorial says #2 and ICON's destructions say #1. What is the consensus? Thanks in advance.
     
  2. Aug 19, 2014 at 8:12 PM
    #2
    adrn1986

    adrn1986 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Mar 26, 2010
    Member:
    #34024
    Messages:
    134
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Adrian
    Riverside Ca
    Vehicle:
    04 Pre-Runner
    -Icon Coilovers and Bypasses -LT Front and Rear -Supercharged
    Option 1 would be your best choice.
     
  3. Aug 20, 2014 at 7:51 AM
    #3
    TacoDeLaPlaya

    TacoDeLaPlaya Total Automotive Performance Sleeper Cell

    Joined:
    Apr 15, 2013
    Member:
    #102133
    Messages:
    927
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Bobby
    Del Mar, CA
    Vehicle:
    06 Silver Access cab
    Custom sotoshi deep dish grill 6112 front 5100 rear Leer 100xl
    Don't do number 2. Number 1 is better. Put the truck on jack stands with the jack under the LCA. Loosen the castle nut and drive the uca arm upward to release. Then lower the jack.
     
  4. Aug 21, 2014 at 9:33 AM
    #4
    flyfishinMT

    flyfishinMT [OP] Active Member

    Joined:
    Feb 11, 2011
    Member:
    #50992
    Messages:
    33
    Gender:
    Male
    AK
    Vehicle:
    2011, AC, 4wd, auto, 4cyl
    K&N filter, Leer 180, WeatherTechs, PopnLock, OEM knock off fogs, Duratracs, 16" FJ Wheels, Avid Lightbar, KC Daylighters
    Right on. Thank You for the clarification. Going to be getting after it this weekend.
     
  5. Aug 21, 2014 at 9:39 AM
    #5
    Mitch

    Mitch Somebody call for a Wambulance?

    Joined:
    Jun 27, 2011
    Member:
    #58964
    Messages:
    5,623
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Mitch
    Spokane, WA
    Vehicle:
    2007 Access Cab SR5 4x4
    Lights, Siren, Drugs, Needles, Electricity
    I didn't do either of those. You don't have to. Just disconnect the sway bars and the UCA/spindle joint. That gives you plenty of room
     
  6. Aug 21, 2014 at 10:05 AM
    #6
    SManZ

    SManZ el tráfico más lento se queda derecha

    Joined:
    Sep 15, 2009
    Member:
    #22817
    Messages:
    1,358
    Gender:
    Male
    Haymarket, VA
    Vehicle:
    '10 Supercharged 4x4 Sport 6-spd
    TRD Supercharger, King 2.5" extended travel remote-resi coilovers, OME Dakar leaf packs, King 2.5" extended travel rear shocks, Total Chaos UCAs, MBRP turndown exhaust, TRD intake, TRD Quickshifter, Goodridge SS brake lines, EBC Sport Rotors, Hawk HPS pads, TRD FJ Cruiser Special Edition 16" Anthracite Rims, Spidertrax wheel spacers, 265/75R16 A/T, Autometer oil pressure, oil temp gauges, TRD boost gauge, PLX DM-100 OBD II scanner, flexpod mounts, A-pillar gauge pods
    Just unbolting the UCA and popping the pin out is a little misleading IMO. Whacking the pin with a hammer has only worked once, when my truck was brand new. It might work if you torch the outside of the spindle to help it release from the pin.

    I think this is the best tool I've found for the job and I've tried a few.

    http://www.amazon.com/OTC-6297-Ball-Joint-Separator/dp/B0015PN010

    This style works good too if you can find one that fits correctly.
    http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/otc-pitman-arm-tie-rod-end-puller-otc6296/17632606-P

    Good luck!
     
  7. Aug 27, 2014 at 5:46 PM
    #7
    guitar2323

    guitar2323 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Feb 12, 2013
    Member:
    #97387
    Messages:
    102
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    clint
    saratoga springs new york
    Vehicle:
    2013 access cab TX Pro
    Why is doing the first way better?
     
  8. Aug 27, 2014 at 6:53 PM
    #8
    Bender581

    Bender581 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Mar 31, 2012
    Member:
    #76015
    Messages:
    643
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    AL
    Arkansas
    Vehicle:
    2012 4X4 Tacoma
    Gobi roof rack. Icon coilovers, Icon tubular UCAs, FOX 2.0 rear shocks, Icon 3-leaf progressive AAL.

    I agree with this. ^^^^. I put on my Icons this way with no problems. I used a puller to separate the UCA from the spindle.
     

Products Discussed in

To Top