Icon waaa waaaa waaaaa

My understanding (which could be flawed) is that digressive/progressive is entirely down to the shim stacks on the valves. You can convert Icon to progressive by changing the valve shims. And you can convert King to digressive by changing the valve shims too. I'm pretty sure that is right because the point came up multiple times in some of the monster long threads over in the suspension forum.

The only thing that would really depend on the shock and shock body itself as far as I know is if you have a bypass shock. Bypass of course being a completely different beast but not applicable to the shocks being discussed here.

 

@DVexile is spot on. Icon are excellent for overlanding, trails, and even work great for difficult trails at slower speeds. The digressive valving is suppose to be better for washboard roads, say like the gravel roads in colorado. If you are jumping dunes and driving your tacoma like it's a race truck(like the OP probably was), probably should go with Kings. Point of this thread is BS. OP abused his shit for 4 years, Icon went above and beyond to give him free parts when he finally contacted them using the correct method, but yet he still wants to bash them? what a douche.

 

I beg to differ. Icon Coilovers and Bypasses on all 4 Corners


Its all about prep and maintenance which it sounds like the OP lacked. Even a slow speed use shock can fail, regardless of brand if its not well taken care of.

 

Major thanks for this. Definitely something I will check on my vehicle at next maintenance. Good to know about common failure modes and install failures.

Do you think @EDDO's clever use of a back mounted spacer for reinforcement is a decent idea? link to EDDO's install

 

Its pretty clever and the sandwich effect certainly would help to reinforce the top of the coil bucket from bending but its difficult to say if this would solve the issue here since it isn't addressing the back bolt not being torqued to spec.

I will add, that of all the Icon C/O installs we have done here, we have yet to have anyone split the top hat. The broken ones have always come from outside installs and the bolt is either loose or missing on the opposite side.

 

Thanks! And no I wasn't thinking or interested if it would help with a missing bolt - was just thinking it was a decent way to strengthen the factory bucket assuming everything was installed and torqued correctly.

 

@BBtacosurfer Whats up Dave... Long time no wheel... "Icons bro. You can do anything" - been a number of years since you told me that. I switched to TC long travel with Kings. Just got king bypasses and hydrobumps for the rear. Ive really enjoyed the kings over the fox and icons I use to have. I have to agree with @tubbsisland on this one. Looks like the inner bolt on the top had was loose or missing. Just a reminder to check mine tonight when I swap wheel bearings, tierods, brakes, and cv's before the desert this weekend.

Glad icon took care of you....

 

so not to put you on the spot at all but since you know me and you know how I drive and maintain my vehicles if the issue were 100% a design flaw why have I not had this issue yet with either of my Icon top hats and OEM coil buckets?

I know, I know. its kind of an open ended question and you cant really give a definitive answer, but with the things I have broken in the ways I have broken them one would reasonably expect that at some point I would have had an issue.

 

I would agree to this as well. If a coilover is mounted by two of the three bolts, and is flush, how does it shear? I would think that the other two bolts would have significant wear/bends from the "tearing" of the hat if it was due to all three bolts being needed to be torqued. The direction of the force to me would seem to move pretty linear up through the coil bucket, but maybe there is some other item at play? These coilovers seem to be designed to be stationary typically as they are bolted horizontally at the bottom and vertically at the top. Were this a long travel truck with a more aggressive shock angle and a different bending moment on the top hat, then I could see your point. If the shock can be seated with enough tension to not move from the other bolts and have no excessive wear on them on their eyelets, then I don't see the argument here as the coilover in my mind still has a balanced presence to the coil bucket.

Not saying you are wrong, but I would like to see what theoretical in some sense that could bring this break to light. Simply saying it hasn't happened to me, doesn't necessarily validate as a test.

Coot

 

As I said, I haven't had a problem with Icon at all 4 corners. Nothing busted, not even any leaks in about 45,000 miles. Installation tech notes regarding preload followed to the fraction of an inch. My rationale for adding those rings is preventing potential issues as I become aware of them(don't want to even be inconvenienced by my truck) and it struck me as a cheap and easy thing to do. The placebo effect is strong.

 

I don't see any issues with it. Props for ingenuity and proper preventative maintenance That's the big take away here, if you take care of your equipment it will take care of you.

 

And I like to be able to have a bit of fun with my daily.

 

Is your avatar the next frame in the photos? Def getting it boyeeeeee

Coot

 

Not anymore.

 

I have ICON's on all 4 corners for 4 years now, I've pushed my truck pretty hard and I've had no issues with 125k miles on my truck. I also do regular maintenance. However I know I don't have a trophy truck, so I don't drive like I have one, just because I have race car parts. So many think because they have race car parts they are indestructible and should survive a nuclear blast. I've had all shock brands on previous builds, I went with ICON because they do more R&D work for OEM trucks. If you want to play hard go long travel, other wise realize you're limited to stock travel and how hard you can push it before failure occurs.