idler pulley

My Tacoma? 2003 2RZ-FE RZN is what’s written on the hood sticker. Not written: 2.4L. Base cab, RWD 2wheel, manual. Autozone also lists the 340K5 as fitting my vehicle. I may just buy the AZ ones as the eBay returns for the less expensive Bando 3 belt pack might be a hassle. My noise might be the AC like yours. Some suggest taking that AC belt off and starting engine on cold morning to see if the grinding noise is absent. To tell you the truth, the intermittent groaning grinding upon cold start seems too deep a groan to just be the idler pulley. BTW, no noise this morning, weird. I will definitely get that alternator belt replaced soon. A free tow truck tow will only take you to the nearest auto garage which might be the worst or most expensive.

 

2RZ = 2.4L inline 4 cylinder

Rather than buying parts and changing them to guess the cause of the noise, you really oughta use a stethoscope or screwdriver to take the guesswork out of it and determine for sure what's the source of the noise. That stethoscope will pay for itself in saved parts costs

 

Well, I’ll definitely only have a shop with an experienced tech and a stethoscope examine the situation. I sure as hell wouldn’t be able to differentiate between normal and failing bearing noise.

 

this is the one I got to replace my A/C idler pulley. I broke off the head of the bolt years ago during my last timing belt change but it was already held in place so left it alone. But needed to get it off and it was also nice and rusty

Toyota 88440-04040 Toyota 90099-04306

I think the issue I had was trying to tighten the adjuster "after" I tightened the center bolt, which was wrong

 

They absolutely do seize up. I had one do it to me on the highway and somehow just broke the belt and luckily didn't take out the ones around it. I used to get cheap pullys and go through one a year, but last time around I bought an OEM one and it's been in there coming up on 4yrs now. I also say change it yourself, very easy with basic tools and you can get to it under the truck and save that labor $$$. The nice part about the OEM pulley is it comes with a new adjuster "nut" so if you break the bolt off because it's seized you can get your adjuster back.

 

Thanks. Not only will I buy OEM, but will warn the mechanic about not twisting the bolt head off. I guess spraying some thread loosening spray beforehand wouldn’t really penetrate to prevent this happening? Toyota wants $70 for an idler pulley. It may be wise to skip on the $35 ones or at least get a quality equivalent. I’ll be seeing to replacing soon because it’ll be a major headache should it freeze up while on the road and needing a tow.

 

As stated earlier, you (or a mechanic) can order just the bearing and replace it, within the the idler pulley housing you have. This way you don't have to spend $70, but the end result is just as good quality-wise

 

Since me doing it is not an option, the amount I’d be charged by a mechanic to do that would be close to just buying a new one, all told. Gone are the days of me DIY-ing when having only an apartment parking stall and working on vehicles is prohibited. Thanks for the post here saying a cheap one didn’t last that long.