Idler Pulleys / Tensioner Pulley / Serpentine Belt

http://www.ebay.com/sch/m.html?_odk..._trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=tacoma+idler&_sacat=0

This is for one of the idlers...pretty sure I bought the other ones from the same seller as well.

This is for the belt....

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bando-USA-7...ssories&fits=Model:Tacoma&hash=item43cb9d28e7

 

45,200 miles: Installed new Gates Serpentine belt today on a 2007 Toyota Tacoma 4L 4WD. My first time. Went at it from the bottom after removing the crash plate. 14mm socket as previously posted. My breaker bar was too long and I ended up using a ratchet drive, small extension for the final set. Print-out of the belt diagram helps a lot. Thanks everyone who posted.

 

Anyone used the gates kit from rock auto? Need to replace mine and thinking about getting that kit

 

Ordered it today will be here by the 6th of Jan will put the parts on that weekend

 

I have order this a while ago never put the belt tensioner on because it is pain in the ass to put on.

 

Btw doing this job will save you close to 500$ lol I did mine pulleys and belt tension assembly took me 5 hrs total the assembly is a pain used wd40 to get those last 4 that's what ate up the time. Those buts were frozen I swear lol. Just remember torque specs too

 

I had a water pump leak, and the replacement leaked too. It seems that after my gates serpentine belt got repeatedly juiced up by coolant leaking, the back of the belt is a little tacky and shiny. This causes a lot of squeel. Its getting better since I replaced the water pump a second time (but an a1 cardone), but I'm reluctant to buy another gates pump. I am sending it back to rockauto to get a new replacement since I'm outside of the warranty and I will probably put my OEM belt back on because I noticed that the dayco and gates have a soft rubber backing when its supposed to be a stiffer aramid (carbon) that allows the belt to slide on a pulley without squeel when cold. The oem belt has a surface akin to leather with cross hatching on it that prevents tackiness.

So, I was doing some research and several of you are looking for the tensioner pulley without the arm and I found it on the dayco site. Quite frankly, I think that it wont matter if you get dayco, gates, autozone, advance whatever because they're all the frigg'n same now. Here ya go.

I got the Gates tensioner arm, and I really cant tell the difference in springs. I dont think it wears out as easily as first thought.

Rockauto has it for 17 dollars and change.
DAYCO Part # 89175 {#89175FN} Import Line Designed for Foreign Nameplate Vehicles

Upper is 89503
Lower is 89169

All Dayco and RockAuto carries them all and I'd buy these before wasting money on Gates because the quality difference is negligible.

Before going all grapist on the tensioner and pulleys, make sure your water pump isnt leaking. Just a few drops on the belt makes it scream. The Aisin is OEM/Japanese and everyone else is Chinese. If you do replace it, get the metal/neoprene gasket. It was $12 from the dealership. Dont try to use the construction paper one they try to tell you will work.

BTW, you dont have to remove the alt and bracket to replace the pump. You just need a 3/8 10-12in breaker bar with a 14mm to bind and hold the arm down with a piece of cardboard between the handle and the alt pulley. It allows you to get to the ONE 10mm bolt to remove the pump. I can replace it in just around 2 hours now. Being good at this is not a good thing lol.

Does anyone know if the two 12mm bolts that are long require any kind of resealing the ends? I noticed they had some kind of gasket crap on them.

 

Subd

 

I replaced the top idler pulley with the original, but it still had a bit of a squeal. Its hard to tell the origin. Is anyone experiencing sounds from their PS pump? I'll swap belts tomorrow to ensure that I'm working from a baseline. It doesnt have any issues once warmed. Perhaps the back side of my current belt is trashed. I thought about the stethoscope but it looks a little tricky getting it onto the parts I want to listen to.

 

Got the kit from rockauto. took about an hour to replace all the pulleys and belt. Can not believe the differance it made.

 

Watch the edge of the belts. I think that getting coolant on them causes the very edge to wear and squeak, especially if the threads absorb the liquid and it takes forever to burn off with the heat.

I noticed that my belts had spots that appear to have more wear and threads showing than on other parts.

 

I had a cold start squeek. I removed belt quite easily. Checked all pullies. Found my top idler very rough spinning and lots of lateral play. Belt looked good 132k kms on it. Kept as spare. Reinstalling the belt was a bitch needed another set of hands. Worst part was the new belt had bends in it from where it was folded. I found the easiest way way to install all but the alternator. Pry on the tensioner and pop it on.

 

I think my squeak is the ps pulley, but its hard to tell. It goes away after 3 or 4 mins running. Everything else is easy rolling. I usually install the ps pump last since it has a large curve. maybe i caused it. it is frustrating with the folded bends in the belt.

 

I'm thinking I need to do the pulleys and belt, I have a supercharger whine pretty bad now, started out only in cold weather and only for a few minutes, but it's all the time now. I'm going to see if I can see any visible movement while running tonight, and try and get some parts tomorrow at the dealer or Napa. 170,000 kms now.

 

I changed my belt today, not too hard, but difficult to get the new belt back on but not too bad. Anyways I checked all the idlers and they all move freely. 1 had a small amount of play in it but rolled very freely. I was hoping the whine would be gone but it's not, it's just as bad. How freely should the alternator move? How could I tell if it's my power steering pump also? Would a PS pump flush help any?!?

 

Well...I did this today and just went to go for a drive and the truck might have ran for 20 seconds then shut off. I tried it 3 times with the same result. Anyone know what might be up? I did loosen the tensioner bolt off by mistake and then tightened it up, I couldn't get the torque wrench on it so I used a small 3/8 ratchet and got it tight, could it be too tight and causing the engine to stall? That's my only idea as everything else is identical to before I started.

 

Do you have a s/c on a 2.7? How does that run? Was it a kit?

Can you describe the whine with detail? RPM? Pulsing, constant, high pitch, etc?

The alt should have some resistance but obviously smooth. I think my PS could use a flush as I think the "moan" I get on cold starts is related to that (or its the tstat and a weak bypass spring making a reed out of the tube). I will flush it eventually. Pop the belt off and check the resistance on the pulleys.

Describe the way it shuts off. Do you think the whine could be the alternator? If that doesnt produce power right, then it may be over/underloading and shutting the truck off. If you replace it, I'd do the battery at the same time.

my .02.
J

 

Just replaced my No.1 & No2. idler pulleys with help from this thread, and the gates part numbers are spot on, that diagram also helped a lot. If you have long arms don't bother removing the skid plate, the bottom pulley was pretty easy to get from the top. Took maybe a half hour to get everything done. EZ!

 

I will be doing this when I get my truck back. Already have the 3 idler pulleys just need my rig. I also need new bolts as they are rusted pretty good. Anyone know where I can get new ones that are of a higher quality?

 

good thread, i just replaced the 2 idler pulleys and the tensioner pulley(not the tensioner, just the pulley). i got dayco brand from rock auto. held them next to the old ones and each one matched up exact.i had some play in the old ones causing a squeak. the new sealed bearings had zero play so that made me feel better. quick easy fix, about 15 minutes.
-pop the belt off
-did the pulleys 1 by 1 . 14mm wrench/ socket
-and sneak the belt around the fan. draw a quick diagram of the belt so you dont get confused.
i did all work from the top front of the engine not underneath.
the 3 pulleys were just under 100 bucks and the belt around 25.
saving zee moneyz.