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Igor: Double Cab 4x4. Frankenstein's Helper

Discussion in '1st Gen. Builds (1995-2004)' started by Blackdawg, Sep 8, 2015.

  1. Jan 14, 2017 at 6:46 PM
    #241
    kuhndawg

    kuhndawg Well-Known Member

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    I've been using these for several years..love them so easy and keeps phone pretty secure.
     
  2. Jan 14, 2017 at 6:47 PM
    #242
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg [OP] Dr. Frankenstein

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    I like these a lot. The only down side is if you get too big of a phone they aren't as nice. But still works awesome.
     
  3. Jan 14, 2017 at 6:58 PM
    #243
    SilverGhost

    SilverGhost Well-Known Member

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    Well I've been used to running only on front brakes becuase my rear valve didn't work. We had to adjust the rears quite a bit to get them to grab. Once we did It grabs pretty good. It's going to take sometime for the shoes to reform to the drums and then I'll have to adjust the valve again. OH you have ABS dam. I know nothing about ABS since my truck never came with it.:boink:
     
  4. Jan 14, 2017 at 7:02 PM
    #244
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg [OP] Dr. Frankenstein

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    Yea Igor had it. I ripped it mostly. haha Don't miss it.

    Maybe i'll just check my shoes next time I'm under the truck to see if i can just adjust them. I do know on Frankenstein when i used the BAMF bracket to lift up the stock on 5.5'' it helped a lot.
     
    SilverGhost[QUOTED] likes this.
  5. Jan 14, 2017 at 7:12 PM
    #245
    Digiratus

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    As much as I like my 15" wheels, C rated tires with lots of sidewall... I need to do the Tundra brake caliper upgrade.
     
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  6. Jan 14, 2017 at 7:20 PM
    #246
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg [OP] Dr. Frankenstein

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    Yea its worth it I think. Improves the stopping a lot. My brakes are awesome now. Can't wait for the rears to get refreshed then i'll really have good braking.

    @m3bassman would enjoy them I think too. And he has wheels that will clear too.
     
  7. Jan 14, 2017 at 7:26 PM
    #247
    SconnieHailer

    SconnieHailer PutterClutch

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    Awesome write up man!
     
    Blackdawg[OP] likes this.
  8. Jan 14, 2017 at 7:29 PM
    #248
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg [OP] Dr. Frankenstein

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    Thanks man!
     
  9. Jan 14, 2017 at 7:32 PM
    #249
    Digiratus

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    I know you said the ebay links were not identical to what you used, but I'm wondering if the ebay seller is the same? Is 'brake_overstock' the seller who refused to respond when there was a problem?
     
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  10. Jan 14, 2017 at 7:42 PM
    #250
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg [OP] Dr. Frankenstein

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    yes, same seller.

    I read a thread on t4rorg of a guy that bought both the power stop ones and the callahan ones. Think he had the same issue with the callahans and just used the power stops. But i know Trent had issues and was able to get a new caliper sent. Not sure on the seller though @Delta00

    Think id get powerstop ones if i did it again.
     
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  11. Jan 14, 2017 at 7:51 PM
    #251
    Digiratus

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    :facepalm:You didn't read the write up did you.
     
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  12. Jan 14, 2017 at 7:52 PM
    #252
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg [OP] Dr. Frankenstein

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    You literally never read what i post do you?

    Why do i try even anymore? haha
     
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  13. Jan 14, 2017 at 7:53 PM
    #253
    Speedytech7

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    Literally in the install with pictures and all you didn't even have to read.
     
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  14. Jan 14, 2017 at 7:54 PM
    #254
    Delta00

    Delta00 ᕕ( ᐛ )ᕗ

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    "Trent" :confused: :p

    Got mine from Amazon, had a gouge on the banjo bolt surface which caused brake fluid to leak and they were super helpful in replacing it getting me a new caliper in two days even before I sent the other one back.

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00E...ndra+brake&dpPl=1&dpID=51gpY5NwzrL&ref=plSrch

    IMG_20150913_164717.jpg
     
  15. Jan 14, 2017 at 8:41 PM
    #255
    jubei

    jubei would rather be doing something else

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    Great write up, man!

    I am one of the happy 01-04 owners as far as the Tundra upgrade goes. It was night and day, and the pedal feel is awesome.

    I'm currently running the BAMF BPV relocate bracket, but I have no idea how much it's doing. The braking with the Tundra brakes before and after the lift and bracket was the same, so there's that, I guess. At some point, I'd really like to do the @BDN mod and ditch the factory setup. So much more versatile.
     
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  16. Jan 14, 2017 at 8:43 PM
    #256
    jubei

    jubei would rather be doing something else

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    I also really enjoyed the bedding in process. Lots of brake smell and lots of fun. Totally worth it with the new rotors too.
     
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  17. Jan 14, 2017 at 10:13 PM
    #257
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg [OP] Dr. Frankenstein

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    Front end Refreshing:

    Igor has a good 183k or so on him. Which means its time for some major maintenace. I started with LBJs, Tie rod ends, and steering bushings.

    My driver side outer tie rod was fused to the inner as i found out last time i tried getting an alignment. So figured may as well replace them all.

    And since i was there i figured why not do LBJs since i have no idea if they are original or what. We all know my reputation with those so I didn't want to risk it.

    For parts I went OEM for LBJs as i have felt aftermarket ones vs OEM and its night and day difference. OEMs are worth it. I also went OEM outer tie rods. But for inners I settled for 555 as toyota wants $136 for each inner.

    No that is not a typo.

    I went through Camelback for all my OEM parts and used the TW discount.

    LBJ Right side: https://parts.camelbacktoyota.com/p...mber=4333039556&vehicleid=78972&siteid=214329

    LBJ Left Side: https://parts.camelbacktoyota.com/p...mber=4334039436&vehicleid=78972&siteid=214329

    Outer Tie Rod, Left side: https://parts.camelbacktoyota.com/p...mber=4504739175&vehicleid=78972&siteid=214329

    Outer Tie Rod, Right side: https://parts.camelbacktoyota.com/p...mber=4504639295&vehicleid=78972&siteid=214329

    I got my inners from LowRange Offroad: http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/toyo...a-tacoma-inner-tie-rod-end-left-or-right.html

    For bushings I went with Total Chaos Poly bushings from Wheelers: The inner's were of course on back order. took 6 weeks to get them. But finally did!

    [​IMG]ManyMods.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

    I started with the LBJs as they are connected to the steering. Just need to remove the 4 bolts.

    [​IMG]ManyMods-2.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

    I couldn't figure out and convenient way to hold the UCA and spindle up out of the way, but it still worked fine just had to lift it as needed.

    [​IMG]ManyMods-3.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

    And this is a tool that in my humble opinion EVERYONE with a 1st gen Tacoma should own. Easily. If you can't afford the $15 price tag to keep this thing in your OSK. You can rent it for free. But its only $15...

    [​IMG]ManyMods-4.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

    This is a Pitman puller. And makes this job very easy. Low Range Offroad has a great video on doing the inner and outer tie rods, which I agree with most of the techniques used. The one i don't is beating the shit out of your tie rods and LBJs to get them out.

    This is where the pitman puller is worth it.

    We will do the Outer Tie rod first, so take the cotter pin out and take the nut off first

    [​IMG]ManyMods-5.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

    Now grab the Pitman puller back the bolt out, slide it on then crank down the bolt.

    [​IMG]ManyMods-6.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

    Grab a large wrench, I like to use a 12'' or larger crescent wrench for more leverage, which you will really want. And start tightening it down.

    [​IMG]ManyMods-7.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

    I HIGHLY recommend wearing earmuff or ear plugs as this next part can be loud. Continue tightening down until you can't or it get very hard. Usually then a light tap on the pitman will send it home with a bang.

    Literally.

    [​IMG]ManyMods-8.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

    The pop can be pretty damn loud so seriously consider ear protection. But as you can see it pops right out no issues and the boot is not torn like a pickle fork would do and the threads are all beautiful if you wanted to reuse the tie rod.

    Which I'm not but still. Very nice tool.

    Repeat for the LBJ, can be a bit tricky if you have the dust boots to get the pitman on, but it will go on.

    My LBJs definitely seem due..thank god we didn't find that out the hard way again eh Mike? lol @Digiratus

    [​IMG]ManyMods-9.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
    [​IMG]ManyMods-10.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

    once off, remove the dust boot as you'll want them on the new LBJs.

    [​IMG]ManyMods-11.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
    [​IMG]ManyMods-12.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

    So fresh and clean :)

    [​IMG]ManyMods-13.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

    Dirty ass boot..lol hard life ahead for this LBJ.

    [​IMG]ManyMods-14.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

    Set the LBJ back in the LCA hole and put the bolts back in. Now i didn't put in new bolts YET. But you SHOULD. I didn't realize my PN for the LBjs didn't come with new bolts as some do. So if you order from my parts list above, GET NEW BOLTS TOO!

    I settled to clean them and will replace later this spring. Added Blue locktite and torqued to 55ft/lbs. Will use Red next time but didn't have red at the shop this go around.

    [​IMG]ManyMods-15.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

    Time for the Tie rods.

    [​IMG]ManyMods-16.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

    Id recommend watching this video for the sole reason to see how to undo the boot clamps. I couldn't take photos of it as it takes two hands and tools so if anything watch it for that part. Should have it linked to start right at that part.

    https://youtu.be/AVQHgcXEhpE?t=4m28s

    Now my drive side was fused together so i took the main boot off and removed the Inner tie rod from the rack.

    This is a problem as there is no way to get the boot off or the smaller clamp without seperating the two tie rods. Well after trying I said Fuck it

    [​IMG]ManyMods-17.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

    And cut it in half.

    [​IMG]ManyMods-18.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

    this allowed me to get off the Nut which i needed as well and the boot and clamp.

    Installed the new inner

    [​IMG]ManyMods-20.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

    The grabbed the new outer.

    [​IMG]ManyMods-19.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

    Once again i was surprised to find no hardware came with it. Something that was going to be an underlying problem with this whole install. I got no new nut for the tie rod. But my old ones where in good shape and I had no issues with using them.

    Bolted everything back up, make sure you put the boot on and clamp first, and was done!

    [​IMG]ManyMods-21.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

    Repeated on the other side.

    Then i moved to the bushings.

    TC includes some nice instructions. Not a lot too this. 4 bolts and then you have to pry the rack away which can be a bit hard. Using a torch i headed the bushings centers out till they smoked or caught fire. Pushed right out no problem.

    [​IMG]ManyMods-55.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr
    [​IMG]ManyMods-54.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

    to be replaced with these.

    [​IMG]ManyMods-53.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

    I was amazed at how well this was going for me and usually the dealing with the rack sucks ass. I lubbed up everything with lithium grease and everything went in great.

    Well, it bit me. The TC kit that i got didn't come with a back washer and the instructions make note of only the T100 and Tundra kit having one. Thought that was odd. Got everything put in save the back half of the furthest bushing on the driver side. I hated how there wasn't a washer but didn't have anything on hand and tried to see if it would work..

    it didn't.

    [​IMG]ManyMods-56.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

    So i made one from the old bushings using the center that had a washer on it. I had already used the OEM washer on the front.

    [​IMG]ManyMods-57.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

    Cut off the center tube and was good.

    [​IMG]ManyMods-58.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

    Much better.

    [​IMG]ManyMods-60.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

    Of course the 2nd time around it was a major PITA to get everything lined up..but eventually I got it all buttoned up!

    [​IMG]ManyMods-59.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

    Got it aligned and drives straight and solid.

    I also did the Tac Weld mod at this time. But will make that a separate post.
     
  18. Jan 14, 2017 at 10:18 PM
    #258
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg [OP] Dr. Frankenstein

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    Yea im happy with the tundra brakes for sure. The rear BPV is pretty easy to do. Id recommend it as well.
     
  19. Jan 14, 2017 at 10:25 PM
    #259
    Digiratus

    Digiratus Adventurer

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    Vehicle:
    The RedHead
    2002 XtraCab TRD 4x4 SCv6 AutoTrans With Lots of Mods ADS COs w/Compression Adjusters Camburg Uniball UCAs Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushings Kartek 7" Limit Straps Plastics Guy Front Bumpstops Custom Alcan Springs +800 lbs +3" ADS 10" Stroke Triple Bypass w/Resi Rear Shocks Custom Rear Shock Relocate All-Pro U-bolt Flip w/Timbren Bumpstops 4.88 Nitro Gears ARB Front Locker ARB Twin Compressor Black 17x8 Konig Countersteer Type X 285/70r17 Falken A/T3w Gunmetal 16x8 SCS Ray10s 255/85r16 Maxxis Bighorns Limited Edition (Relentless) Elite Front Bumper Smittybilt X2O 10K Winch Diode Dynamics SS3 Sport Selective Yellow Fog Lights in the Bumper Diode Dynamics SS3 Pro 4,000 Kelvin SAE Driving Lights with Clear Lenses on the Bumper Morimoto D2S Projectors XB35 Ballasts + 4300K Bulbs Badland Sliders FrankenFab Tire Carrier Swingout bumper w/kitchen BudBuilt Front & Bellypan Skids BAMF Rear Diff Skid Dometic CFX 55im Fridge/Freezer Alpha II Hardshell RTT Badland Custom Bed Rack Denso 210-0461 105 amp alternator Dual Northstar 24F AGM batteries BlueSea 7622 ML-ACR Battery controller Peak DBI Dual Battery Voltage Monitor Magnuson MP62 Supercharger w/2.37" Pulley Haltech Elite 2000 Standalone ECU Denso 650cc Fuel Injectors Doug Thorley Headers Aeromotive Stealth 340 Fuel Pump TransGo A340F Reprogramming Shift Kit Magnaflow Hi-Flow CAT, Magnaflow 18" Muffler w/Vibrant Resonator 13WL Brake Calipers Braided Steel Brake Lines ScanGauge II OBDII Scanner Kenwood TM-71A Dual Band Ham Radio Larson 70CM/2M Antenna Uniden 520xl CB radio 3' Firestik Adjustable tip antenna Pioneer DEH-P9400BH HU Alpine Amps & Type R components (F) and coaxials (R) Wet Okole Seat Covers Weathertech Digital Liners Deck Plate Mod 1" Diff Drop Carrier Bearing Drop
    At 180K+, they were way over due. Very grateful they did not create any unnecessary drama.

    IMO, LBJs need to be on a regular replacement schedule. Similar to the waterpump/timing belt.
     
    unstpible likes this.
  20. Jan 14, 2017 at 10:26 PM
    #260
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg [OP] Dr. Frankenstein

    Joined:
    Dec 31, 2010
    Member:
    #48500
    Messages:
    80,778
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Monte
    Wyoming/St. Louis
    Vehicle:
    The Trifecta of Taco's
    ALL OF THEM!...Then some more.
    Oh i agree hands down. Me of all people understand this now.

    I just had literally no idea if they had ever been changed..so..kinda scary considered what we did and where we were in Oct haha

    Timing belt and water pump are going to be done this summer too as well as valve cover gaskets.
     
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