I'm Sorry But What Size Tire Wheel With Kings

I think those rims would look great and fit well! I actually think the Ray 10s might stick out a bit more. I think those Fuels might look better than the Ray 10s.

Much of what we are seeing is a “style” that looks good to some people’s eye. For example, the younger guy I work with likes the look where the truck squats... I like a level or slightly raked truck.

 

Additionally, the MAIN reason to go with 17” rims is tire selection. There are simply more choices.

As to the shocks... Remember that these suspensions are more finally tuned and sensitive than that ole’ 1970s Ford Bronco we both had. If you go up even 1-2” in height, you really should do upper control arms. Here’s some pictures of the Bilsteins with Camburg UCAs.







I’m going to add one thing... I went with Falken Wildpeaks 265/75/R16 on the recommendation of others on TW. I think these tires are terrible, but they were only $450. They don’t balance well and are finicky in regards to air pressure, temperature, and vibration. When I get tired of them, wear them out, or get new wheels I’m going back to BFGs KO2s

 

What clip are your 8112’s at?

 

They are threaded adjustable like Kings. No clip.

 

Should be easy to look it up if you find some you like. Plenty of folks rock them if you want 16’s. I’ve been running 17’s and it’s been solid. Good luck tons of them out there.

 

Thanks for your reply. You are responsible for me changing my mind. I now want
BILSTEIN B8 8112 SERIES 0.6-2.5″ LIFT KIT FOR 2005-2019 TOYOTA TACOMA,
I read the 28-page thread on these and am excited to get these.
Now since I want only a 1-inch lift do I go with a 275/70/17 for 32.2 inches( 1.6 inch higher than stock) or play it safe with 265/75/16 which will be 31.6 high. ( one inch higher then stock). I can see 1.5 inch lift but absolutely no higher. Do I need new control arms with a 1 or 1.5 inch lift? Thanks in advance for any feedback

 

For reference, 1” all around with 275/70/17 KO2’s. I only rub in reverse on full lock, otherwise it’s a solid setup in my opinion.
Anything under 2”, you shouldn’t need upper control arms. Of course, that is up to you. For your use I think you will be fine especially since you don’t plan on off roading. I have stock on mine.

 

Here is my suggestion, but things are constantly changing and there’s a lot of factors to consider...

Let’s start at the front: 8112s came with only 600lb springs originally. The lift was designed as 1/2”-2 1/2” lift. Bilstein techs used Camburg UCAs in their original setup and in their instruction sheet. 650lb and 700lb springs came later to accommodate lifts with lots of added weight. I don’t have any added weight up front and installed my setup last January. I am running 265/75/R16 Wildpeaks. My center hub to the bottom of the front fender is 22 1/4” on each side. Ironically, that’s the same height as Oscolivar1 with 650lb springs. My preload on the passenger side is the same at 1” and on the driver’s side my preload is a little more at 1 3/8”. Oscolivar’s truck sits higher at 38” to the bottom fender while I’m at 37 1/4”. My guess is this is due to tire size.

I would definitely install UCAs, when you are deciding on which ones, the main difference is the ball joints. You need to decide which ones are right for you. The other consideration is the ECGS bushing. I didn’t do it, and so far no issues.

 

What's Ironic about that? Spring rate has absolutely nothing to do with lift height. You get the height from the preload.

 

As to the rear, since you are going up in the front, I suggest you also go up in the rear to maintain the factory rake of the truck. You have four options: replacement leaf packs, three pack AALs, single AAL or blocks.

Blocks have never been a good option. The single AAL can be too stiff. A full leaf pack is probably over kill, since you don’t plan on loading up the truck. That leaves the three leaf AALs. Simple install.

Lastly tires and wheels. The issue is rim size, off-set and backspacing. I’m where you’re at... educating myself.

I would recommend the BFG All Terrains over Wildpeaks.

 

I agree. You are correct. A 14” spring rated at 600lbs is the same height as a 14” spring rated at 650lbs —until you put weight on it, in this case more than 600lbs.

The question I have, and you might be able to answer, is how mushy or soft will the 600lbs spring feel as we approach or exceed that threshold of 600lbs? And by extension, couldn't we increase the pre-load even just a little to compensate and stiffen the spring?

 

I'm far from an expert but this article, https://accutuneoffroad.com/articles/coilover-spring-rates-for-toyota-tacoma-4runner/ was written about this by some pretty smart suspension gurus.

 

Thanks for the read! Nice to know that I can increase my pre-load a little without sacrificing the ride quality. To answer my own question based on that article, mushy or softness can better controlled by the valuing in the shock and not the spring (makes sense if you ever driven a car without shocks). And moreover increasing the preload isn’t going to stiffen up a spring.

 

Where did you buy the Kings? I'm looking at these, the Icons, the Fox's, and the OME BP-51's. Too many options...price will probably win out for me.

 

Blocks are heavily opinionated on here. I’ve been running a 1” block in the rear for almost two years now with zero issues and have gone on many off road trips that aren’t just a simple forest service road. As long as you get a cast iron block, you’re solid. Nothing more than 2” is what I’ve picked up here and people running 2” blocks wheel their trucks pretty hard. It’s a simple and effective way of raising the rear. Don’t fall for the negative stigma behind them. You buy what suits your needs, not what the Instagram bros say to buy.

 

I do plan on off roading. Not a bunch but some. And I want to hit speed bumps in parking lots at 35mph and not feel it,,, much? Thanks for the advice on the upper control arms. But rubbing in reverse? Would would it need not to do that?

 

I really don’t want to overly debate this, but I’ve wheeling Jeeps, Broncos and Yotas since 1982. Plenty of people have wheeled vehicles with blocks and haven’t had issues. I also agree that it’s an affordable way to raise the rear of a truck. However, if you’ve ever seen a truck on a really steep climb with 33s or 35s, where you need a little speed to make it to the top and the backend starts to hop as it catches traction, you’ll see that rear axle twist those leafs. Blocks accentuate that twisting putting strain on the driveline, u-joints and other components. I think most people could get away with 1-2” blocks without problems. More than that and I think you are eventually going to have problems —especially if your running big tires. There is a lot of torque put into a rear end when you start increasing tire size and blocks are only going to accentuate that.

 

Thanks for your help. The shop told me since I'm only going up an inch I don't need new control arms.
I'm also considering going with 16 inch rims and 265/75/16. 265/75 doesn't come in 17 inch. I saw a guy at the gas station in a Tacoma with, 275/70/17 and it looked pretty beefy. I'm so confused.
I know I want the 8112's and 1 inch lift keeping the rake.
I have a hard time buying shoes. I hate this part off me. Can't decide on a rims tire combo.

 

So, here’s another thing to think about: perception and appearance, If you only go up 1”-1.5” and you run 265/75/R16s (like my truck) I don’t think you will really feel like your truck is lifted. In fact, I often feel like I’m at stock height like other DCSBs. It’s only when we park side by side that I notice a difference —and if I’m parked along side with someone with stock suspension and aftermarket wheels and tires the same as mine or bigger, I feel like their truck is taller. If you look at the pictures above, Rustytaco’s truck looks taller and beefy. But if you look at his space between the top of the tire and his fender well and compare it to mine, I think you will see I have more fender well showing. Some of that is offset and some of it is the lift. I like a little fender well showing —takes away some of the concern if and when I stuff a fender with a tire.

And that’s where UCAs come in play. While you won’t “need” UCAs (just like Rustytaco), but what UCAs will do is actually move your wheel hub slightly forward so you won’t rub in the rear in reverse at full lock. Remember, you are changing the geometry of your truck. As you raise it —even just an inch— you unintentionally move the wheel hub (and therefore the tire) rearward. UCAs correct that and allow you to move the wheel hub forward and run an oversized tire without rubbing. Everything you do to the suspension affects something else in the suspension and drivetrain.

New UCAs will move the position of the upper ball joint and increase your positive caster.

 

You could also look into 255/85/16. It’s a taller tire but skinnier. Will not have much if any rubbing. A few threads on them. I almost went this route but wanted some wider tires.