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I'm tired of blowing out fuses

Discussion in 'Audio & Video' started by 07TacoRidah, Apr 17, 2013.

  1. Apr 28, 2013 at 9:09 PM
    #41
    07TacoRidah

    07TacoRidah [OP] SHHHH, this is interesting

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    overall? or just on one terminal? like 80a each? or in total? My expected total amps will about 200 (60a/60a/80a). will it burn up? The 60a is holding up fine ... but I mean it's by itself right now. I don't want a burnt engine :(
     
  2. Apr 28, 2013 at 9:20 PM
    #42
    Rich91710

    Rich91710 Well-Known Member

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    Orvac Electronics (there's one in Pasadena) or Electronic City in Burbank.

    The shrink tubing is anywhere from $5 to $15 for a 3-foot length... the more expensive stuff is adhesive lined for weatherproofing (that's all I use on the motorcycle or under the hood).. but I haven't seen it in colors.
     
  3. Apr 28, 2013 at 9:33 PM
    #43
    Rich91710

    Rich91710 Well-Known Member

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    200a will smoke your alternator in short order. Even a 100a load will smoke the alternator sooner or later. The Tacoma charging system was simply not designed for that kind of load.

    On conductors, you need to size your conductors to handle the intended load.
    You need to size your fuses to protect the conductors.
    You need an 80% safety factor at EACH level....
    If you have a wire that can safely carry 100 amps, it need to be fused at no higher than 80 amps. You should never run a fuse at more than 80% of it's rated capacity, so the 80a fuse should never be subjected to a continuous load of more than 64 amps.
    Transwiki is a good resource for how many amps a specific size conductor is rated for. http://wiki.xtronics.com/index.php/Wire-Gauge_Ampacity

    Don't forget, the ground conductor is just as important as the supply cable. A 2ga supply cable with a 60a fuse will still result in smoke if you try to ground the system through a 10ga cable.

    You can run parallel supply feeds to each individual amplifier, just make sure that the fuses are as close to the battery as possible, and that none of the fuses are large enough to violate the 80% rule on the conductor they protect.

    You should NOT run a single 2ga conductor from the battery to the amp area, and then tap off multiple 60a branch circuits unless the 2ga conductor is also fused to no more than 100a at the battery.... but at that point, if the total load from the 60a branch circuits exceeds 100a, it's going to go.

    A quick note on the Transwiki tables... they give both free-air and enclosed ratings for copper. For vehicle installations with underhood heat, I follow the "enclosed" column, but I don't stick to the 80% rule... I consider that safety factor built into the enclosed derating, so 2ga would be good for a 100a fuse, 80a continuous load.
     
  4. Apr 28, 2013 at 10:02 PM
    #44
    dtmccray

    dtmccray Well-Known Member

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    You are planning on running 2400 watts? Is that peak or rms? My last set up was 2 L7 12's on a kicker 1500.1 birth sheet was 1610 watts rms and peaked out around 3000 I powered it through a 2ga wire with a 150a fuse it was one of the large flat blade type fuses and never had any problems out of it. What I was saying is if you are blowing fuses don't just keep upping the size that amp is 680 watts max shouldn't pull but about 56.6 amps figure 60 to be safe. If it blows a 60a fuse something is wrong (bad ground, wrong size wire for the load it sees etc) if you stick an 80 in its going to get hotter before it blows the fuse. More heat more chance of fire. Me I would look for a 65 amp fuse just to get a 9 amp cushion.
     
    Last edited: Apr 28, 2013
  5. May 1, 2013 at 9:12 PM
    #45
    07TacoRidah

    07TacoRidah [OP] SHHHH, this is interesting

    Joined:
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    2007 Base Model Access Cab
    Engine bay: aFe Pro Dry filter Secondary air filter deleted Sokie Tech hood damper kit Xscorpion dual 0g wire ring terminal (3) Big 3 upgrade (0g wiring) HID kit (headlights - 3k) Bullz Audio 0g wire Exterior: Blacked out OEM headlight housing Front grille swap (to chrome, dipped red) XR front bumper valance (dipped red) Aftermarket fog light kit w/OEM switch Rear bumper swap (to chrome) 99 Cents Store tailgate lock Suspension: 1" spindle spacer kit (Addional nuts and longer bolts added) 4x4 leaf pack swap (middle leaf removed) 1" Drop Blocks Air Lift rear helper springs Rims: 18x9.5 Asuka ST 15-2 rims et26 all around 5mm billet aluminum wheel spacers 225/40/18 tires all around Neochrome lock nuts Pepboys valve stem caps Interior: Wink Mirror rear view Center console lid fabric Metra Dash kit Pioneer DEH 5000ub Hifonics Zeus ZXi 6410 PB 6 1/2" component speakers up front 10" JBL GTO 1014 (2) 4 ohm svc in dual ported box JDM Fuchsia shift knob (old Dickies pants shift boot)
    :eek: dude I live close to one (ONG have they gone through the names. Marvac, Orvac, what is now .. DuVac? UGH). been there though, got some of my 3 pole carlings from them (#smh not many employees in there know what they are doing/even selling for that matter). I have, but it's only online that I have seen them (picture as well as purchase).


    going to have to do MAJOR HOMEWORK :confused: but good thing I'm getting direct answers (instead of searching around confusing myself and thus creating anger)

    "On conductors, you need to size your conductors to handle the intended load.
    You need to size your fuses to protect the conductors.
    You need an 80% safety factor at EACH level....
    If you have a wire that can safely carry 100 amps, it need to be fused at no higher than 80 amps. You should never run a fuse at more than 80% of it's rated capacity, so the 80a fuse should never be subjected to a continuous load of more than 64 amps.
    Transwiki is a good resource for how many amps a specific size conductor is rated for. http://wiki.xtronics.com/index.php/Wire-Gauge_Ampacity

    Don't forget, the ground conductor is just as important as the supply cable. A 2ga supply cable with a 60a fuse will still result in smoke if you try to ground the system through a 10ga cable.

    You can run parallel supply feeds to each individual amplifier, just make sure that the fuses are as close to the battery as possible, and that none of the fuses are large enough to violate the 80% rule on the conductor they protect.

    You should NOT run a single 2ga conductor from the battery to the amp area, and then tap off multiple 60a branch circuits unless the 2ga conductor is also fused to no more than 100a at the battery.... but at that point, if the total load from the 60a branch circuits exceeds 100a, it's going to go.

    A quick note on the Transwiki tables... they give both free-air and enclosed ratings for copper. For vehicle installations with underhood heat, I follow the "enclosed" column, but I don't stick to the 80% rule... I consider that safety factor built into the enclosed derating, so 2ga would be good for a 100a fuse, 80a continuous load."

    hopefully I can also find a hands on example (reading is fine for me, but physical stuff helps more - my brain sucks :( ). But I am somewhat understanding what you are saying. It's kind of like how you tune an amp, don't ever go full on the gain and other settings (my cousin always told me to set it at about 75% gain and then tune from h.u. if needed).

    LMAO nah nothing like that. Only 2 amps and 2 air compressors for the air suspension. So it would go slot #1 - Hifonics amp (60), slot #2 - US Amp(60), slot #3 80a to 4g to junction to compressor relays.
     
  6. May 1, 2013 at 9:20 PM
    #46
    Rich91710

    Rich91710 Well-Known Member

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    I've never been to the Pasadena location. I generally shop at the one in Fullerton (the original location, it's as big as a market). I was buying some parts for work a couple of years ago and the manager told me about the one "closer to there"
     
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