Improving the URD Fuel Pump Kit

I'm confident in my abilities. If these guys are cutting the Gates hose with the hose clamp, they gotta be doing some reefing on it I would guess. Thanks Torspd. How's your truck running?

 

What tool did everybody use to take the ring of the top of the tank? It calls for a special tool...

 

The tech I worked with had the special tool too

 

Mike, the OP actually had a great tool he used on his.. and then again on mine. it wasnt the specific one called for, but it worked perfectly. unfortunately I dont remember what it was

EDIT.. it was an oil filter wrench! remembered!

 

I used a huge flat tip screw driver. Tapped gently yet hard enough to move it, but marked where it was before I started so that I would know how much to tighten it.

 

Runs pretty dang good for now. Colin can vouch for that.

 

After dropping my tank and resetting the piece of Gates hose - I gotta agree with Tor. I didn't get crazy when I tightened up the hose clamp, and when I pulled the pump unit - lo and behold - the hose had slid down just a fraction of an inch and was kind loose.

I added a touch of glue to the nipple, jammed the hose on there good and tight and then put a few more turns on the hose clamp. Just got done reinstalling the tank, so it'll be tmrw before I can say anything about an improvement, but I feel a little better about the install this time.

Now - I need my deck plate and the 105mm hole saw to show up...>=)

 

I just finished installing my pump this weekend. Then drive from PA to NC. It's such a better driving experience. The drop in power on hills is gone, acceleration is smoother through all rpm ranges, and it doesn't shift or "search for a gear" as much.

Now for the delayed start issue. I had a few troubles that lead to taking the pump out of the assembly and gas tank a couple times, I blame this on gas fumes in the freezing shop. I think we tightened all the hose clamps in the pump assembly up after each disassembly, but can't be sure. We did only use a 1/4 ratchet to tighten all clamps.

I guess dropping the tank again is in order?

 

Possibly. Monitor it and see if it changes and gets worse, or if it stays the same. Might just be different do to pump design and check valve design. Or lack of a check valve. I have had my pump in for so long that I don't even remember if there is a difference in starting time.

 

That is the one problem that most people have when they do the install. Split lines from overtightened clamps.

 

I tested after sitting a little bit (gas station piss and fill stop) and it took longer to start than if I turned it off and back on.


Here's some more of the fuel lines OP suggested:
Summit racing

http://m.summitracing.com/search/product-line/atl-corrugated-fuel-tubes
..
flEbay
http://www.ebay.com/itm/360566193097

 

Just checked fuel pressure:
Key on engine on


Key on engine off


Key off pressure drops back to 0psi

 

That is much higher than it should be. 43.5 psi is where it should be around. Unless you have an aftermarket FPR, and have raised your fuel pressure.

That is just strange.

 

It should still be stock. That's measured just outside the tank where the URD filter is. I know the fsm says 40.8-41.7psi

 

If you're taking the measurement before the fuel filter and it's that much higher than at the rail (you did check it at the rail, right?) then it's the sign of a possible blockage or filter that needs changed. This points to that post I made about the OEM fuel filter versus traditional fuel filters. How many miles on that fuel filter?

 

Yea one of my threads was resurrected. I hope I helped someone out. I owe the members of this site something.

 

The filter and pump are brand new (couple hundred miles from PA-NC). I assume the original filter on the pump was clogged, that's what led me to put in the urd pump and external filter kit.

I did not measure at the rail (lines on driver fender) because I damaged the rubber coating on the hard-line end of the quick connect. It still seals and I'm not taking it apart.

 

Based on the design of the original filter/pump combo it would be very difficult for it to get 'clogged as it's design doesn't lend to it to need to be changed as often as a traditional external fuel filter. It's likely that the stock fuel pump will fail long before the integral filter becomes a bottleneck. Did you have this issue beforehand or what issue did you have beforehand? Sounds like whatever your problem was before might still be there. The fuel pressure at the rail will tell the entire story as you only have part of it right now but if you have a higher pressure at one point and lower at the rail you may have a blockage somewhere between causing more pressure beforehand to achieve the required pressure at the rail.

 

More details in my build thread, let's discuss further there. The old issues were resolved with the URD pump filter combo. I'll provide more details in another thread once I have bench test results from the old pump.

Now the issue I'm concerned with is the drain in pressure as OP posted. I'll drop my tank next week and check the URD supplied hose connecting the pump to the pump assembly.