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In bed storage systems

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by bmgreene, Oct 5, 2016.

  1. Oct 5, 2016 at 8:52 PM
    #1
    bmgreene

    bmgreene [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I'm thinking about building in since kind of storage unit for my bed to fill the space between and in front of the wheel wells.

    I'm figuring on three main benefits from this.

    1 - I got my leaf springs a little too stiff in the back and need some weight to settle the ride down

    2 - a couple drawers back there would make nice semi permanent storage for recovery and camping/tailgating gear

    3 - filling in the space around the wheel wells would provide a good flat surface for sleeping or hauling 4x8 sheet materials when i need to do either.

    I've got a configuration in mind but I'm stuck on trying to figure out how to anchor the thing into the bed. Gravity would be fine 95% of the tone, but i do wheel the truck when I can and don't want it shifting around or tilting with drawers at full extension. I might be over thinking this since I'm not sure the drawers would actually extend past the tailgate anyway (and overthinking is more or less my default setting). I'd also prefer the whole thing to be somewhat easy to remove if necessary, which adds a wrinkle to the design.

    Anyone have any setups like this that they've anchored down
     
  2. Oct 5, 2016 at 9:08 PM
    #2
    FixedGearMike

    FixedGearMike Well-Known Member

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  3. Oct 5, 2016 at 9:15 PM
    #3
    bmgreene

    bmgreene [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Pretty similar, but with 2 long drawers between the wheel wells, and with the stowed setup not running the whole length of the bed. I've got a swingbox that i don't want to block in and have a plan for using the drawers as a base to extend the platform back when needed (it's a little complicated but not too bad).

    Nice setup, btw.
     
  4. Oct 6, 2016 at 11:25 AM
    #4
    C0d3M0nk3y

    C0d3M0nk3y Well-Known Member

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    I didn't want full length drawers. One drawer had to be sized to fit the dog's crate, that is why I have one drawer wider than the other.

    I have added 2 tie down points for the cooler. I plan on adding additional L-Track for more tie down options.


     
  5. Oct 6, 2016 at 12:00 PM
    #5
    C0d3M0nk3y

    C0d3M0nk3y Well-Known Member

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    I missed the part about anchoring to the bed.

    Here is what I did.






    I put some L-Track into the bed, and I cut a sheet of plywood and built everything off of that.

    I had trouble getting the L-Track all the way in the front of the bed, so I just added more to the middle.
     
    twotwentyswift likes this.
  6. Oct 6, 2016 at 12:12 PM
    #6
    bmgreene

    bmgreene [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Do the bolts under the plywood just slide into the track, then?

    I've got the long bed, and was thinking about working in provisions for jerry cans in front of the wheel wells (don't need that necessarily built into/onto the storage box). I do have some cleats mounted on the floor of the bed up in front, and could also possibly just use a ratchet-strap to tie down the front end (but I'd lose that space for any bigger items doing it that way).
     
  7. Oct 6, 2016 at 1:36 PM
    #7
    Mr.PowerTrays

    Mr.PowerTrays Well-Known Member Vendor

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    ok wait, in that last photo is that bin on sliders, or just pulled out? cause putting it on sliders is complete genius! i'm envisioning a pull out style camp kitchen...
     
  8. Oct 11, 2016 at 7:52 AM
    #8
    C0d3M0nk3y

    C0d3M0nk3y Well-Known Member

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    For the L-Track I used an L-Track threaded Stud Fitting. I put the fitting in, and maneuver the plywood over top the fitting. I then bolt down the plywood to the fitting. I would like longer studs. I tried the Double Lug Stud, but it was too short. I switched to the L-Track threaded Stud and it is still shorter than I would like. I saw online where there were some longer studs, but I haven't found or bought any yet.

    The first set of L-Track I bought was too wide. I went with a narrower L-Track from US Cargo Control and it fits nearly perfectly. It does sit a hair above the ribs in the bed, but not too bad. I use a bed mat with holes cut out to protect the bed itself (I had a bed mat from before). If I had to do it over again, I would probably not use the bed mat, or I would go with something less robust.

    I wrote up quite a bit of the build.
    L-Track Install
    Bed Platform Update 1
    Bed Platform Update 2
    Bed Platform Update 3
    Bed Platform Update 4
    Bed Platform Update 5

    Links:
    L-Track
    L-Track threaded Stud Fitting
    L-Track Double Lug Stud Fitting

    You can find just about everything for the L-Track at US Cargo Control.
     
    Biscuits likes this.
  9. Oct 12, 2016 at 7:36 PM
    #9
    FixedGearMike

    FixedGearMike Well-Known Member

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    It just sits on the wheel well humps. I never considered sliders. I usually pull the entire thing out when all the camping gear is unloaded. Takes 5 minutes. I've never had any sliding issues due to it not being hard mounted. It fits snugly when the tailgate is closed.
     
  10. Oct 12, 2016 at 7:47 PM
    #10
    FixedGearMike

    FixedGearMike Well-Known Member

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    I like the idea of a hard mounted kitchen. But I camp a lot. I have the ability to take my kitchen tubs out and into my house to clean and resupply them as necessary. We can take both tubs out to cook on picnic tables or into a different area. I wouldn't discourage a hard mounted expedition portal Land Rover type kitchen, but this works best for usimage.jpg image.jpg image.jpg
     
    ready6delta and bmgreene [OP] like this.
  11. Oct 18, 2016 at 5:12 PM
    #11
    TRD493

    TRD493 Well-Known Member

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    Very nice! How deep are the drawers themselves and what's the total height of the unit? I plan on doing something very close to this and I'll LineX the outside of it.
     
  12. Oct 19, 2016 at 10:08 AM
    #12
    C0d3M0nk3y

    C0d3M0nk3y Well-Known Member

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    The depth fits the 30cal ammo cans near perfectly. So it is probably close to 7" depth. I could have gotten another 3/4" or possibly even a full 1" with some changes. The 1/2" plywood base (for structure) and the bed mat take up some valuable depth. I didn't really consider that when I was putting it all together. I wanted to make sure my platform was super secure, well attached to the bed, and could come apart in a couple of pieces. I believe I was aiming for 8" from top of the platform to the bed, and the 1/2" plywood and enough space to allow the drawers to roll gave me 7" total drawer depth.

    I will try to remember to check when I get home.

    The drawers themselves are made of 1/2" plywood for the sides and base. The front is 3/4" birch. The 200 lb sliders impacted the width of the drawers, but not the depth.
     
  13. Oct 19, 2016 at 5:04 PM
    #13
    bgsmith

    bgsmith Well-Known Member

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    My very sophisticated system
    rubbermaid-9s31-gray-brute-20-gallon-nsf_f5165d55d0bd0b610eecceec88e7c383b7e0c00d.jpg

    +

    images_9a844da72bc0720e15811dc3e52c380bc1030c09.jpg
     
    FixedGearMike and Chase8059 like this.
  14. Oct 20, 2016 at 10:18 AM
    #14
    C0d3M0nk3y

    C0d3M0nk3y Well-Known Member

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    Took a measurement last night. A little over 7" from bottom of drawer to top of drawer. A little under 8" to the bed platform itself. With some work I could possibly get 8.5", but I would be hard pressed to go over 9" (with every change I could think of).
     
  15. Oct 20, 2016 at 11:05 PM
    #15
    TRD493

    TRD493 Well-Known Member

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    I thought I wanted deeper drawers, 10", but when I actually got the tape measure out 8" is about the most I'll need. So pretty close to what you have. Any deeper than that and I wouldn't have any bed left.
     
  16. Oct 21, 2016 at 9:35 AM
    #16
    C0d3M0nk3y

    C0d3M0nk3y Well-Known Member

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    I wanted deeper drawers as well. But I don't want the platform height to be any higher than it is already.

    I can remove the 1/2" platform base, but that adds a ton of stability to the platform frame. I could lower the drawers some from where they sit, but not by much. They need to have enough room to still slide. So...someday if I ever decide to re-design, I will look at those 2 changes. Until then...this works for me.
     
  17. Oct 22, 2016 at 7:17 AM
    #17
    TRD493

    TRD493 Well-Known Member

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    If you remove the 1/2" base does the drawer still have room to slide out over the tailgate?
     

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