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Inner Tie Rod Replacement

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by Cutnweld, Sep 17, 2020.

  1. Sep 17, 2020 at 7:48 PM
    #1
    Cutnweld

    Cutnweld [OP] Member

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    I'm about the replace the inner tie rods on my 2nd gen. Stealership told me the inner tie rod was loose and the entire rack needed to be replaced (apparently the inner tie rod itself isn't a Toyota service item).

    Before beginning, my question is: how are you guys countering the torque on rack when loosening the inner tie rod? I know if you don't counter the force it can cause harm to the gears/internals of the rack.

    Thanks!
     
  2. Sep 17, 2020 at 8:44 PM
    #2
    TacoTuesday1

    TacoTuesday1 Well-Known Member

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    Really?
    I've never done one on a Toyota before. Did them on German cars. Usually there is an outer TRE, inner TRE, and boot. Possibly with o-ring seals.
    The inner TRE usually has a very big hex to turn on it, requiring big pliers or inner tie rod tools. Usually larger than 24mm.
    On some cars, when removing the rack (3 bolts, + banjo bolt line connections and whatnot) there is a hole to put a bolt, to lock the rack in centered position. But that is just to center it.
    I've never heard anything before about tie rod torque harming racks.

    Either way, before you believe what a dealer tells you
    realize that: would a dealer rather sell you a 5 hour job for $100 hr = $500?
    or a 30min job = $50? Is the car even worth them writing up and pulling in for such a small job?
    Would they rather sell you a $30 part, or a marked up $1000 part?

    I would like to think that if on a German car people break inner TRE's loose with wrenches or pliers,
    that on a Toyota, a brand said to be simpler, more reliable, and serviceable on a rocky dirt field, that it would be as picky or less picky about how to do it
     
  3. Sep 17, 2020 at 8:50 PM
    #3
    TnShooter

    TnShooter Well-Known Member

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  4. Sep 17, 2020 at 9:12 PM
    #4
    Cutnweld

    Cutnweld [OP] Member

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    Yeah I come from working on older BMWs - love the German cars - and this is my first truck. I've watched some videos and seen some write-ups - none of them support the rack rod while they are un-fastening the large inner TRE that you're referring too. I actually learned from BMWs that you shouldn't break the inner TRE's loose with wrenches because it excessively stresses the gears/inner components of the steering rack - as you've said (and I agree): you need to put A LOT of torque on that inner TRE nut to loosen it.

    And here's most likely the dealer's thought:
    Risk of a tech damaging the steering rack's internals is too great to warranty an entire rack, therefore the TRE inner's are not released from engineering as a "service" item and the entire rack is the "service" item. Same concept as a dealer replacing an entire hub+bearing assembly even if just the bearing is bad: risk of a tech damaging a bearing while trying to install it into the hub is too great to warranty the entire assembly so they only "service" the entire hub. It's not the dealer's call to make - that instruction comes straight from the chassis release engineer.
     
  5. Sep 18, 2020 at 8:37 AM
    #5
    taco912

    taco912 Well-Known Member

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    Having just replaced my 4x4's inner and outer TRE's I saw no big deal from any other time or vehicle that I've done including my vintage air-cooled 6-cylinder German cars. This was part of a complete front end rebuild of every wear part @ 145K. Of all the parts, BJ's, drop links.... the inner tie rods seemed to have the most wear of all the original parts. There might (might not) have been a minor leak @ the drivers side of the rack but not enough consider replacing.

    I did purchase an inexpensive tool like this one and it did prove to be useful.
    https://www.amazon.com/Universal-In...ocphy=9032311&hvtargid=pla-952167382503&psc=1
     
  6. Sep 18, 2020 at 8:48 AM
    #6
    Cutnweld

    Cutnweld [OP] Member

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    Did you stabilize the rack rod? I noticed from an A1 Auto DIY video that under the boot, inboard of the inner TRE there is a flat surface that looks like you can get a wrench on to oppose the torque you put on the TRE “nut”.

    Did you use that tool for installing also or just removal? Any tips on how much to torque the new inner TRE inner down?
     
  7. Sep 18, 2020 at 8:54 AM
    #7
    koditten

    koditten Well-Known Member

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    I've done 1st gen inner TRs often, so don't know if later gens are similar.

    I never backed up the gear rack when loosening the inner TR.

    That is a cool tool, but I always just used a pipe wrench and gave the pipe wrench a whack on the handle with a big ball penis hammer. Once it's loose, it spins off with ease.
     
  8. Sep 18, 2020 at 10:04 AM
    #8
    taco912

    taco912 Well-Known Member

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    Yes, there is a 2-sided perch on the end of the rack arms that you can get a wrench on, to support when R&R that reduced the twist. Surprised this isn't mentioned more often. It is large in wrench size like 36mm, sorry don't remember exact size. The wrench perches are narrow and right up against the end of the ITRE, so not all open end or crescents will fit. I have several narrow bicycle open-end wrenches from Park Tool that I use in these situations. Used the tool for R&R and torqued till my elbow clicked.
     
  9. Sep 18, 2020 at 10:59 AM
    #9
    azzwethinkweiz

    azzwethinkweiz Well-Known Member

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    Did my inner tie rods not to long ago. Didn't back the rack up at all (nor have I ever), not saying its right or wrong but I've never had any issues doing it this way. Used the Harbor Freight kit I've had for years BTW: https://www.harborfreight.com/inner-tie-rod-removal-set-63705.html
    It comes with several crows feet pieces and even if one doesn't fit exactly right they can easily be ground down to fit, since its super cheap it doesn't really matter.
    Good luck
     
    Last edited: Sep 18, 2020
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