Inner Tie Rod Replacement

I'm about the replace the inner tie rods on my 2nd gen. Stealership told me the inner tie rod was loose and the entire rack needed to be replaced (apparently the inner tie rod itself isn't a Toyota service item).

Before beginning, my question is: how are you guys countering the torque on rack when loosening the inner tie rod? I know if you don't counter the force it can cause harm to the gears/internals of the rack.

Thanks!

 

Really?
I've never done one on a Toyota before. Did them on German cars. Usually there is an outer TRE, inner TRE, and boot. Possibly with o-ring seals.
The inner TRE usually has a very big hex to turn on it, requiring big pliers or inner tie rod tools. Usually larger than 24mm.
On some cars, when removing the rack (3 bolts, + banjo bolt line connections and whatnot) there is a hole to put a bolt, to lock the rack in centered position. But that is just to center it.
I've never heard anything before about tie rod torque harming racks.

Either way, before you believe what a dealer tells you
realize that: would a dealer rather sell you a 5 hour job for $100 hr = $500?
or a 30min job = $50? Is the car even worth them writing up and pulling in for such a small job?
Would they rather sell you a $30 part, or a marked up $1000 part?

I would like to think that if on a German car people break inner TRE's loose with wrenches or pliers,
that on a Toyota, a brand said to be simpler, more reliable, and serviceable on a rocky dirt field, that it would be as picky or less picky about how to do it

 

Here is how this guy did his

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/tie-rod-replacement.239369/

 

Yeah I come from working on older BMWs - love the German cars - and this is my first truck. I've watched some videos and seen some write-ups - none of them support the rack rod while they are un-fastening the large inner TRE that you're referring too. I actually learned from BMWs that you shouldn't break the inner TRE's loose with wrenches because it excessively stresses the gears/inner components of the steering rack - as you've said (and I agree): you need to put A LOT of torque on that inner TRE nut to loosen it.

And here's most likely the dealer's thought:
Risk of a tech damaging the steering rack's internals is too great to warranty an entire rack, therefore the TRE inner's are not released from engineering as a "service" item and the entire rack is the "service" item. Same concept as a dealer replacing an entire hub+bearing assembly even if just the bearing is bad: risk of a tech damaging a bearing while trying to install it into the hub is too great to warranty the entire assembly so they only "service" the entire hub. It's not the dealer's call to make - that instruction comes straight from the chassis release engineer.

 

Having just replaced my 4x4's inner and outer TRE's I saw no big deal from any other time or vehicle that I've done including my vintage air-cooled 6-cylinder German cars. This was part of a complete front end rebuild of every wear part @ 145K. Of all the parts, BJ's, drop links.... the inner tie rods seemed to have the most wear of all the original parts. There might (might not) have been a minor leak @ the drivers side of the rack but not enough consider replacing.

I did purchase an inexpensive tool like this one and it did prove to be useful.

Universal Inner Tie Rod Tool 3/8" Low Profile Tool for Inner Tie Rod Installation and Removal

https://www.amazon.com/Universal-In...ocphy=9032311&hvtargid=pla-952167382503&psc=1

 

Did you stabilize the rack rod? I noticed from an A1 Auto DIY video that under the boot, inboard of the inner TRE there is a flat surface that looks like you can get a wrench on to oppose the torque you put on the TRE “nut”.

Did you use that tool for installing also or just removal? Any tips on how much to torque the new inner TRE inner down?

 

I've done 1st gen inner TRs often, so don't know if later gens are similar.

I never backed up the gear rack when loosening the inner TR.

That is a cool tool, but I always just used a pipe wrench and gave the pipe wrench a whack on the handle with a big ball penis hammer. Once it's loose, it spins off with ease.

 

Yes, there is a 2-sided perch on the end of the rack arms that you can get a wrench on, to support when R&R that reduced the twist. Surprised this isn't mentioned more often. It is large in wrench size like 36mm, sorry don't remember exact size. The wrench perches are narrow and right up against the end of the ITRE, so not all open end or crescents will fit. I have several narrow bicycle open-end wrenches from Park Tool that I use in these situations. Used the tool for R&R and torqued till my elbow clicked.

 

Did my inner tie rods not to long ago. Didn't back the rack up at all (nor have I ever), not saying its right or wrong but I've never had any issues doing it this way. Used the Harbor Freight kit I've had for years BTW: It comes with several crows feet pieces and even if one doesn't fit exactly right they can easily be ground down to fit, since its super cheap it doesn't really matter.
Good luck

 

Reviving an old thread, What brand inner tie rod ends did you all go with? On my 1st gen I used sankie 555 and oem for the ball joints, any advice on brands to use?

 

Moog cause im cheap lol

 

I just replaced inner and outer OEM tie rods. The inners were a bit of a PIA. What makes it difficult are the narrow perches for the wrenches. The steering shaft has a 1/4” wide perch for a 26mm wrench; the inner tie rod takes a 36mm wrench and the perch is 3/16”. I only had one adjustable wrench that would fit either one. I used it to hold the steering shaft in place and I used a pipe wrench to unscrew the inner tie rod. I used an awl to open the inner bellows hold-down clamp, then a zip tie to hold the bellows over the new inner rod.
I had play in the inner rods and the boots to both outer tie rods were ripped. I used Moog all around, and re-used the bellows as both were still in good condition. The Moogs are pre-greased and appear to be quality replacement rods. $75 for the 4 rods. The video I found most useful is by How To Automotive, titled, How to Replace the Inner and Outer Tie Rod Ends on a 2004-2015 Toyota Tacoma.

 

hello necropost

 

Hey hey friends! Lots of good information in this thread.

I replaced the steering rack bushings [used Energy Suspension polyurethane] I found that inner, outer and lower ball joints needs to be replaced...

Ordered Lower ball joints and the Outer tie rods from the dealer BUT the Inner tie rods are not sold separately at the dealer!

-Has anyone used CTR or Santei brand inners? replacing 45503-39075 Toyota part

as for the Energy bushings I dont even have 100 miles on to comment outside of the steering feels better but not 100% due to the other work components I need pointers on.

Thank you