Installed 4.88 Gears in my 2016

Nope did not change at all. I used my Garmin gps today. I thought the same thing but it didn't change. I don't know why!

 

Maybe speed is measured by wheel rotation. Thus bigger tires but not gear change.

 

Hmm, well that gives me something to think about before buying the hypertech speedo calibrator... My truck is getting re-geared be the OP despized this thusday or friday, it looks like ill be the first to do it with a manual.

 

I believe its a calculation with driveshaft rotations and wheel rotations together, but I'm no engineer so I could be wrong.

 

Not butthurt, just don't want bad info out there.

There is absolutely a difference between gearing different types of vehicles. I've regeared Fox body Mustangs in about 90minutes, having done countless ford 8.8 diffs in my life. I doubt I could even get the front clam out of a new Taco and apart on the bench in that time. Throw in other complications like locking diffs and you can easily add an extra hour or two.

I didn't take anything as a personal attack, I just didn't want people to think that $650 was a normal labor price for a gear install and get upset when shopping around thinking that all their local shops were trying to rip them off.

 

Since we are on the subject. Any tips for someone doing a Tacoma for the first time?

 

Check out gearinstalls.com. Zuk goes through a bunch of gear installations step by step in absurd detail. The front clam is much harder than the rear dropout, but he has a few clam installs on the site.

 

Thanks! I check it out.

 

Okay so I figured out the speedo calculation off another thread here on TW, I pasted the link below to review it.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/true-speed-after-regear-formula.155144/

With that being said here are the calculations for my re-gear and speedometer differences

Manual Trans Speed Difference 93.5% of actual speed

Old ratio - new ratio / new ratio
(4.88 - 4.30) / 4.88= .1348837

New tire - original tire / original tire
(32.71 - 30.56) / 30.56= .0703534

2nd answer - 1st answer
.0703534 - .1348837= -.0645303

3rd answer + 1
-0.0645303 + 1= 0.9354697

4th answer x speed you want to calculate
65 MPH x 0.9354697 = 60.8 actual speed
70 MPH x 0.9354697 = 65.5 actual speed
75 MPH x 0.9354697 = 70.2 actual speed
80 MPH x 0.9354697 = 74.8 actual speed
85 MPH x 0.9354697 = 79.5 actual speed

So my theory was right before when i said the speedometer is showing a faster speed than the actual speed driven.
I'm getting the speedo calibrator to keep my odometer down.

Auto Trans Speed Difference 87% of actual speed

(4.88 - 3.90) / 4.88 = .2008196

(32.71 - 30.56) / 30.56= .0703534

.0703534 - .2008196 = -0.1304662

-0.1304662 + 1 = 0.8695338

65 MPH x 0.8695338 = 56.5 actual speed
70 MPH x 0.8695338 = 60.9 actual speed
75 MPH x 0.8695338 = 65.2 actual speed
80 MPH x 0.8695338 = 69.6 actual speed
85 MPH x 0.8695338 = 73.9 actual speed

 

That's nice!
But not correct!
I guess I'm a liar?
I have 33.5 in tires.
I have 4.88s.
Speed is about 4-5 over, in my 16 Tacoma.
If it's on the internet it must be correct!
I get all my news from facebook!

 

Can I be facetious and ask why we purchasing Master Install kits for trucks that are brand new. It is completely not needed. A new crush sleeve, maybe, but not needed.

An honest gear shop will tell you that if you got 60k, then yeah might as well throw a master at it. My diff with 12k didn't even have the factory assembly grease worked out of the seal.

 

If I would have had the option to not waste the money on bearings I wouldn't have. I'm not going to use most of mine. I guess they'll made good paper weights.

 

Haha, my mistake I did the calculations for 285/70r17 assuming that's what you had.

 

I have 295 70 17s.
Gearing does not change speedo.

 

How does the 2016 Tacoma determine your speed? Years ago, a vehicle speed sensor, in the transmission, was used for vehicle speed. As I was told, the Tacoma determines speed differently. In light of the Tacoma's method of determining vehicle speed, we need to understand how gears and/or tire diameter changes affect the Tacoma's ability to accurately determine vehicle speed.

 

You switched the old and new ratios, should be "(4.30-4.88)/4.88". You made this same mistake on both the manual and auto trans calculations.

Doesn't matter anyway since the speedo reads off the WSS.

 

Replacing the crush sleeve is absolutely needed, not a "maybe" situation there. I also don't like to reuse ring gear bolts, pinion seals, or outer pinion bearings. The outer pinion bearing thing is just my personal preference. It gets a beating when you're pressing the pinion out, and it's cheap enough to change.

I always suggest a master kit on anything with 10-15k or more. You're absolutely right that it's not needed on a brand new truck, you're just replacing good bearings with different good bearings. Nitro is the only company with 3rd gen gears right now (I know of a few others developing them though) and they package them up with master kits. They'll sell you whatever you want though. I didn't get the package, I just got gears and minor kits, which give you those "must replace" items I mentioned.

 

I won't arguing with you, the crush sleeve is what $20, pinion nut $10. But I'm curious if you took your truck to the dealer to have the pinion seal changed if they would replace the crush sleeve, or pull the diff to insure proper backlash. I'm assuming most 3rd party shops wouldn't go to that extent either.

I've been reusing diff parts for years from Toy 8's, Ford 9's, 44's, 60's 14 Bolts and haven't had a diff failure, but new stuff is a small price for peace of mind.

 

No need to check backlash when changing a pinion seal. Yes, you "should" use a new crush sleeve when changing a seal, but most people don't. This isn't what we were talking about though.

We're talking about regearing here, not changing a seal. You have to use a new crush collar, or crush sleeve eliminator kit, when you regear. It's not a matter of risking failure of a reused component. If the new pinion gear has the step where the CC rests machined just a few thousandths lower than the original gear the original crush collar will already be crushed too far and won't be able to hold pinion bearing preload.

I have seen reused ring gear bolts fail, so I don't reuse them.

I agree with you though, there's no need for a master kit on a new truck, but if you have 10k miles I'd just go ahead and change the bearings. It's a whole lot easier during a regear than to have to tear the diff back apart later.

 

If these 4.88s make your 6th gear close to what stock is.. How is 1-3rd? I feel like the truck is going to be a rocket ship until I hit 5th? Because from the sound of it, the issue is in 5th and 6th..