Installed Updated OME Dakars (New Part Number) and Bushings

Before



After

 

I was editing the post....after pic is there now.

 

Looks good!

 

Thanks but it's not done yet. Damn these things take time and money to get set up. Full bumpers, winch, skids and sliders in a month.

 

Almost done then -- or at least like 90%

 

But does it REALLY ever end?

RTT, fridge, wheels and tires next year.....FACK!

 

lol.....yeah that last 10% may take a long, long time.....

 

Looks great. Question about the lift inches. The product says 2.75" lift. I assume that is over stock right? I have the 2017 Off Road 4x4 DCSB. It technically is lifted from the factory an inch or two over standard right? So if I install the EL095R on this with no added weight in the bed what lift would I get?

FYI - I'm planning on putting the 5100's on front and back. Lift the front 2" with the 5100 and looking for the better way to lift the back. Seems blocks are not advised. Not looking to change anything else so if I stay in the 2-2.5" range I shouldn't run into other issues it seems?

 

I didn't want to start a new thread, but looking for some advice. My factory shocks were done, and my rear leafs are flat. I added 5100s and set the front to 1.75. Right after I added them, the truck was perfectly level, but now with my flattened springs the rear has settled and the truck is nose high by 1/2".

I'm trying to figure out how to raise the back by an inch. All the aftermarket springs I find add 2" or more. I'm thinking of having mine re-bent, but not sure how long they would last. Or, could I just do an AAL, and hope that will provide some support for my rear? I will only be towing a 16' duck boat. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

I was reading through these cause I just got the new part number dakars El095r. For JDA.. it says these will give the 3rd gen 2" of lift in the rear. For Fike.., I think most AAL's give about 1"-1.5" from what I've seen, just depends on which ones you go with.

 

I actually just went with a 1" block. Really happy how it turned out. I've got just a slight rake, but it looks pretty level

 

I installed my EL095R springs. The ride is superior to stock IMHO. However, I have basic A.R.E. cap, Toyota rubber bed mat, and prefer to leave my Yakima hitch mounted bike rack on all the time. The truck seems to be right at level. The front has Billstein 5100s with stock springs on the highest lift setting. Fantastic ride!

Update: About 3/4 inch higher at rear wheels than the front. Axel shims are installed, as well.

 

I'm helping a buddy with the install of his EL096R pack this afternoon. One of them has a "0" on it and the other has a "-" on it.

I have the CS047R pack on my truck and it had a "+" and a "-" on the driver and passenger side. I'm planning to put the 0 on the driver side and the - on the passenger side. Hopefully someone can confirm if that is the right way to install them.

 

Yes is right way.

 

Good deal. Thanks for the quick reply.

 

Did you go from stock leafs to the Dakar pack? Did you do the Ubolt flip while you were at it or just order new U bolts? I'm thinking rather I want to order the standard pack or heavy duty. For now I just carry a RTT but may add more in the future.

 

@NiteTaco

Still enjoying the Dakar's? Any Vibes? I run an empty bed so I plan on installing mine with the larger overload removed like you did initially. Upfront I measure ~22" with TRD Baja suspension. Might do a shell eventually but even still I'd be ok sitting at level with a decent load versus sagging like I am now. Plus I can always add the over back in down the road.

 

For anyone thinking about EL095 with removing the long overload.....I have the EL095 with the longer overload removed, factory bump stops (for now) and 2 degree shims. For my needs it is perfect, I don't have a camper shell or much weight in the back, and my front lift is pretty minimal so I didn't want to be too high in the rear. 23 3/8 '' from center of wheel to fender. The ride is awesome, smooth, no squeaks, no vibes, and the rear doesn't sag like it did with the wet noodle (non TSB) factory springs.

A couple things to note:
1. The OME center bolts won't work because they aren't threaded down enough. I used some all threaded ones from headstrong. Then you have to cut them so that the factory bumps will fit over the top of the bolt.
2. If using the factory bump stop, the long leaf spring rebound clip will slightly hit your frame about the same time as your bumpstop hits. It is the long one just behind the center of the spring. I noticed a tiny tiny mark on the frame from this. To mitigate this, I cut the clip, ran a new bolt and nuts, then painted black. No chances of hitting now. Had I known this, could have done the cutting/drilling off the truck which would have been easier. Here are before and after pics so you can see what I'm talking about.

Before


After

 

I'm running the same setup now but with Timbren Bumps and did the same modifications to the pack clamps as you to clear the frame rail. Super happy with them. I've been running them since early this year without issue.