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Installing 5100s and other lift stuff this weekend.

Discussion in 'Suspension' started by goufcustom, Apr 10, 2012.

  1. Apr 10, 2012 at 5:20 AM
    #1
    goufcustom

    goufcustom [OP] 7.62x63mm

    Joined:
    Oct 3, 2011
    Member:
    #64586
    Messages:
    1,328
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Michael
    Leonardtown, MD
    Vehicle:
    2006 4x4 TRD Off Road DC SR5
    Bed Topper, Diff Breather, aFe Cold Air Intake, Satoshi Grill, Moved Horns, Oil Catch Can, Tailgate Lock, Husky Mud Flaps, H4 65/70W Bulbs, Lower Grill Mesh, TRD Skid Plate, LEDs in the bed, LEDs behind the grill for accent lighting, Parking lights as turn signals, LED turn signals and reverse lights, 5100s up front, eibachs up front, SS extended brake lines all around, 1.5" AAL in the rear, Relentless Fab U-Bolt Flip Kit, ICON Progressive AAL, TRD Wheel Center Caps, HomeLink, Heated Driver Seat, Hella 500 FF Driving Lights, BAMF Diff Skid, BAMF LCA Skids, BAMF Rock Sliders w/ KickOut.
    EDIT: I can't decide where to set everything, I think I want to do my eibach's with 5100s set at 0, with the 1/4" top plate spacer on the driver side, and then my rear set up with a 1.5" AAL, no TSB, and a 3/8" spacer on the drivers side to get rid of rear Taco lean. I have a DCSB 4x4, and hoping that this set up would sit level or close to level.

    Thoughts?



    I am getting ready to install my lift kit on my 2006 TRD Off Road DCSB 4x4 this weekend. I have all the parts or they are on a UPS/FedEx truck to be here tomorrow, but I had a few questions.

    I am going to take a look at all of my bushings front and rear, no plan to replace the, just inspect them and then replace the following weekend if needed. I also plan to put lots of anti seize grease on the bushings when I put it all back together.

    Anyway, the questions I have is, since I will be under there and pulling a bit off my truck, is there anything else that I should be looking at, checking, greasing, inspecting or replacing? I know the old saying it it isnt broke dont fix it, but the truck has 100k miles on it, so there is always the potential to find worn out parts or somethings that should just be replaced instead of letting it go until failure and have to take it to a dealer and get bent over in parts and labor fees...


    Also, how do you know how tight to make the nut on the front struts? I have read several install guides and threads but no one says how far down to tighten the top nut on the strut once the coil is compressed and the top plate and washers are installed...? :confused:

    Thanks
     
  2. Apr 10, 2012 at 5:25 AM
    #2
    tacoftw

    tacoftw 5100s are the same price as spacers, seriously

    Joined:
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    McDonough, GA
    Vehicle:
    05 Double Cab 4x4
    5100s, camburg arms, toytec AAL, 285s on m/t 17x9
    Grease everything that has a fitting on it...you'll want to look at all of the bushings, check the ball joints and tie rods..good luck on the install! I just did the same on mine..it's really easy. Pics when it's all done!
     
  3. Apr 10, 2012 at 6:03 AM
    #3
    goufcustom

    goufcustom [OP] 7.62x63mm

    Joined:
    Oct 3, 2011
    Member:
    #64586
    Messages:
    1,328
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Michael
    Leonardtown, MD
    Vehicle:
    2006 4x4 TRD Off Road DC SR5
    Bed Topper, Diff Breather, aFe Cold Air Intake, Satoshi Grill, Moved Horns, Oil Catch Can, Tailgate Lock, Husky Mud Flaps, H4 65/70W Bulbs, Lower Grill Mesh, TRD Skid Plate, LEDs in the bed, LEDs behind the grill for accent lighting, Parking lights as turn signals, LED turn signals and reverse lights, 5100s up front, eibachs up front, SS extended brake lines all around, 1.5" AAL in the rear, Relentless Fab U-Bolt Flip Kit, ICON Progressive AAL, TRD Wheel Center Caps, HomeLink, Heated Driver Seat, Hella 500 FF Driving Lights, BAMF Diff Skid, BAMF LCA Skids, BAMF Rock Sliders w/ KickOut.

    Thanks, I got semi-new stock UCA to replace my 100k mile + ones, this way I dont have to press new bushings in, and I get a new ball joint. So the plan is to grease all the bushings and inspect them all, since my passenger side was a little stiff when I did my spacer lift about 2k miles ago, and now I am going in to do it all correctly and take the top place spacers out.


    If I was to pull the wheel bearing, not replace it, but can you put grease in there? or is this a waste of time or not recommended?


    I also plan to turn my rotors if I have time.
     
  4. Apr 10, 2012 at 12:49 PM
    #4
    tacoftw

    tacoftw 5100s are the same price as spacers, seriously

    Joined:
    Feb 20, 2012
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    Messages:
    632
    Gender:
    Male
    McDonough, GA
    Vehicle:
    05 Double Cab 4x4
    5100s, camburg arms, toytec AAL, 285s on m/t 17x9
    I'm pretty sure they're sealed bearings, but honestly I'm not sure. never looked at em.

    make sure you wait to tighten the control arm bolts until the truck is back on the ground on its own weight. they should be stiff, thats how they're designed.
     
  5. Apr 10, 2012 at 12:49 PM
    #5
    tacoftw

    tacoftw 5100s are the same price as spacers, seriously

    Joined:
    Feb 20, 2012
    Member:
    #73232
    Messages:
    632
    Gender:
    Male
    McDonough, GA
    Vehicle:
    05 Double Cab 4x4
    5100s, camburg arms, toytec AAL, 285s on m/t 17x9
    I'm pretty sure they're sealed bearings, but honestly I'm not sure. never looked at em.

    make sure you wait to tighten the control arm bolts until the truck is back on the ground on its own weight. they should be stiff, thats how they're designed.
     
  6. Apr 10, 2012 at 12:50 PM
    #6
    tacoftw

    tacoftw 5100s are the same price as spacers, seriously

    Joined:
    Feb 20, 2012
    Member:
    #73232
    Messages:
    632
    Gender:
    Male
    McDonough, GA
    Vehicle:
    05 Double Cab 4x4
    5100s, camburg arms, toytec AAL, 285s on m/t 17x9
    I'm pretty sure they're sealed bearings, but honestly I'm not sure. never looked at em.

    make sure you wait to tighten the control arm bolts until the truck is back on the ground on its own weight. they should be stiff, thats how they're designed.
     
  7. Apr 20, 2012 at 1:52 PM
    #7
    goufcustom

    goufcustom [OP] 7.62x63mm

    Joined:
    Oct 3, 2011
    Member:
    #64586
    Messages:
    1,328
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Michael
    Leonardtown, MD
    Vehicle:
    2006 4x4 TRD Off Road DC SR5
    Bed Topper, Diff Breather, aFe Cold Air Intake, Satoshi Grill, Moved Horns, Oil Catch Can, Tailgate Lock, Husky Mud Flaps, H4 65/70W Bulbs, Lower Grill Mesh, TRD Skid Plate, LEDs in the bed, LEDs behind the grill for accent lighting, Parking lights as turn signals, LED turn signals and reverse lights, 5100s up front, eibachs up front, SS extended brake lines all around, 1.5" AAL in the rear, Relentless Fab U-Bolt Flip Kit, ICON Progressive AAL, TRD Wheel Center Caps, HomeLink, Heated Driver Seat, Hella 500 FF Driving Lights, BAMF Diff Skid, BAMF LCA Skids, BAMF Rock Sliders w/ KickOut.
    I can't decide where to set everything, I think I want to do my eibach's with 5100s set at 0, with the 1/4" top plate spacer on the driver side, and then my rear set up with a 1.5" AAL, no TSB, and a 3/8" spacer on the drivers side to get rid of rear Taco lean. I have a DCSB 4x4, and hoping that this set up would sit level or close to level.

    Thoughts?
     
  8. Apr 21, 2012 at 7:51 AM
    #8
    DDD

    DDD Shine bright like a hymen

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    Derek
    Santa Clarita, CA
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    06 DC 4x4 TRD Off-Road
    Front sounds good.

    But, 3/8 inch spacer in the rear?

    Just put the 1/4 inch spacer in the front. You will be fine. No need for a spacer in the rear.

    Oh and the bearings are sealed. Not greasable.
     
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