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Installing Bilsteins

Discussion in 'Technical Chat' started by grubburg, Apr 11, 2015.

  1. Apr 11, 2015 at 4:26 PM
    #1
    grubburg

    grubburg [OP] Well-Known Member

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    This is going to be a difficult project. I'm not a mechanic.

    First of all, what are the appropriate points to jack-up the suspension and physically place the jack? I couldn't find any information on this in the manual. i jacked it up at teh cross bar that runs under the driver's seat and attaches to the frame rails down the sides.

    Second, I took the bilsteins out of the box. how do you affix the circlip to the selected adjustable height? it just slides freely.

    just an FYI, i'm doing this one https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vkVLBOnAifc as it looks straight forward enough...

    third, my plan is to put the jackstands on cinder blocks, as they don't go high enough by themselves. is that considered safe?

    fourth, how high should i jack the truck up? how far off the ground should the tires be? i'm going to set them at 1.75 inches on the bilstein, so how far off the ground should the tires be when i start?

    this is going to be a long thread full of newb questions.
     
  2. Apr 11, 2015 at 4:35 PM
    #2
    Delta00

    Delta00 ᕕ( ᐛ )ᕗ

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    Check Build
    This is going to be a difficult project. I'm not a mechanic.

    First of all, what are the appropriate points to jack-up the suspension and physically place the jack? I couldn't find any information on this in the manual. i jacked it up at teh cross bar that runs under the driver's seat and attaches to the frame rails down the sides.

    Not sure what you mean by this? Where do you place the jack to lift up the vehicle? If so, on the frame or cross member if you don't have your skid on.

    Second, I took the bilsteins out of the box. how do you affix the circlip to the selected adjustable height? it just slides freely.

    There are instruction on how to move the clip in the box it came in. However, to move it up you just get one edge of the clip out of the groove and work it up then slide it into the next groove. Keep on going until you are in your desired groove. Ensure the clip can freely spin when its in the groove.

    just an FYI, i'm doing this one https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vkVLBOnAifc as it looks straight forward enough...

    I like this method, done it twice.

    third, my plan is to put the jackstands on cinder blocks, as they don't go high enough by themselves. is that considered safe?

    I don't think TW likes cinder blocks. Personally, ive used 2x4 blocks of wood stacked to give me the extra amount of lift necessary..

    fourth, how high should i jack the truck up? how far off the ground should the tires be? i'm going to set them at 1.75 inches on the bilstein, so how far off the ground should the tires be when i start?

    Jack it up enough to get the tires off, maybe the tires should be around 2.5 inches off the ground.
     
  3. May 25, 2015 at 3:31 PM
    #3
    grubburg

    grubburg [OP] Well-Known Member

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    again, about the circlip, there isn't really a away to "lock" it into a level. even when it's in the right position, it could easily just be slid to another position. isn't it supposed to lock in at a level, so it's permanent?
     
  4. May 31, 2015 at 6:05 AM
    #4
    DDD

    DDD Shine bright like a hymen

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    The clips just snap into the grooves. Once the clip is in the groove you want the lower spring perch slides down over the clip. The clip is just there to stop the spring perch at the desired height. But both are supposed to rotate around the shock.
     
  5. Jun 3, 2015 at 8:33 PM
    #5
    technolust

    technolust Erudite Polymath

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    I *am* mechanically inclined but on my 4x4 it was a bit of work in the front until I realized what needed to be done to get the strut out. I disconnected the sway and toe arms and it made my life a lot easier. I marked the toe arms w/ permanent marker on the threads to know where to put the adjustment nut back to which helped.

    Unfortunately I do not have a super powerful impact so the spring compressing was a bit of work. I'd blast the clamps down and waste a battery and charge another back and forth and back and forth. I guess I need to man up and get a proper air impact. I've been putting it off far too long.

    Anyway, I've never worked on a Toyota (or a truck) before but using pry bars, leverage, a bit of hammering and lots of disconnecting of components I got it to work.

    As far as lifting the truck I used two large blocks of wood stacked up and jacked via the rear diff. Once the tires were in the air I removed them, then lowered it onto my jack stands. My stands were the limiting factor. Full droop in the rear had the tires on the floor and the jack stands. It's a bit of a learning curve when you're used to low Subarus like I am.

    My advice is be sure you use all the proper shims/bushings/etc when assembling your shock because I forgot one shim as I was getting tired and forgetful and saw it on the floor and this was after I struggled to get the strut assembly back in the front. So, I took it BACK out and once again disassembled and reassembled the strut.

    Next time I do it it'll take 1/3 the time. That's how it always goes.
     
  6. Jul 1, 2015 at 1:25 PM
    #6
    Rocket's World

    Rocket's World New Member

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    Did you have to remove the front sway bar to drop out the strut assemblies?
     
  7. Jul 7, 2015 at 8:53 PM
    #7
    KauaiBoy

    KauaiBoy Active Member

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    @Rocket's World On your truck you need to loosen the sway bar bracket so that you can move the linkage out of the way, but don't need to actually remove the sway bar.
     
  8. Jul 7, 2015 at 9:00 PM
    #8
    Skootter14

    Skootter14 Upon my signal, unleash Hell

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    only caveat to what kauaiboy said is: if you dont remove the sway bar, its will make it a pain to get the coilover out. First time I put 5100's/eibach coils on i removed the sway bar completely and had no issues. Second time (I went from .85 to 1.75 setting and added TC UCA) I tried to save time by just loosening the sway bar and left it on (I didnt feel like removing the pelfrybilt skid) and it wasted 15-20 min (each side) fighting the sway bar to get the coilover out. if you have a stock skid, remove it, followed by the sway bar (the pelfry skid weights like 40# and held by 6 bolts, by yourself it can be quite a task taking on and off (especially if truck is on a lift already and youre by yourself). Just my 2 cents. good luck
     
  9. Jul 7, 2015 at 9:13 PM
    #9
    KauaiBoy

    KauaiBoy Active Member

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    x2 ^^ Good thought
    I just got my info on this from helping a friend and watching youtube so take it with a grain of salt.
     
    Last edited: Jul 7, 2015

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