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Installing Subwoofer and Amp Set-Up

Discussion in 'Audio & Video' started by DirtyDTaco, Mar 4, 2014.

  1. Mar 4, 2014 at 3:16 PM
    #1
    DirtyDTaco

    DirtyDTaco [OP] Talk slow, shoot fast.

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    '00 XtraCab 4x4 3.4L V6 5-Speed, 240K miles
    Polk 6.5" Coaxial Door Speakers, Pioneer DEH-X6500BT Head Unit, Black Bed-Lined Badges, 15% Tint, JL Audio 10" BassWedge, Alpine 500w Mono Amp
    If there's already a thread on this that I can't find, please point me to it.
    I'm about to order a JL Audio CS110-WXv2 BassWedge loaded enclosure (200 watts RMS, 4ohm) and an Alpine MRV-M500 amp that pushes 300 watts at 4ohms. To install these, I've been quoted $150 by one and $175-200 by another. I already have a Pioneer DEH-X6500BT head unit.
    Two questions.
    If I wanted to install these by myself to save a good bit of money, how involved would it be for someone who has never done it before.
    Also, if I did install it what steps would I have to take?
    Thanks in advance.
     
  2. Mar 4, 2014 at 4:27 PM
    #2
    DirtyDTaco

    DirtyDTaco [OP] Talk slow, shoot fast.

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    Polk 6.5" Coaxial Door Speakers, Pioneer DEH-X6500BT Head Unit, Black Bed-Lined Badges, 15% Tint, JL Audio 10" BassWedge, Alpine 500w Mono Amp
    Nvm this post, just decided screw it I'll get them to install it lol. Too much of a headache and too much that I might screw it up and end up having to pay someone to fix anyway.
     
    mahaloTaco likes this.
  3. Mar 4, 2014 at 6:23 PM
    #3
    gbreezer80

    gbreezer80 Well-Known Member

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    Volant CAI w/Scoop, Borla Catback Exhaust, URD MAF Sensor Calibrator, Dual 10" LED Lights, Kickass Audio System
    Just build a box, I did....I'll submit photos later. Found the original dimensions on Toyota Nation, but changed it up to fit my sub (for airspace) and amp/crossovers.

    [​IMG]
     
  4. Mar 4, 2014 at 6:39 PM
    #4
    DirtyDTaco

    DirtyDTaco [OP] Talk slow, shoot fast.

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    Polk 6.5" Coaxial Door Speakers, Pioneer DEH-X6500BT Head Unit, Black Bed-Lined Badges, 15% Tint, JL Audio 10" BassWedge, Alpine 500w Mono Amp
    The box isn't the problem, it's the wiring that im not sure of
     
  5. Mar 4, 2014 at 6:41 PM
    #5
    gbreezer80

    gbreezer80 Well-Known Member

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    Volant CAI w/Scoop, Borla Catback Exhaust, URD MAF Sensor Calibrator, Dual 10" LED Lights, Kickass Audio System
    Got it...can be overwhelming if you haven't tackled this before.
     
  6. Mar 4, 2014 at 6:44 PM
    #6
    DirtyDTaco

    DirtyDTaco [OP] Talk slow, shoot fast.

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    Polk 6.5" Coaxial Door Speakers, Pioneer DEH-X6500BT Head Unit, Black Bed-Lined Badges, 15% Tint, JL Audio 10" BassWedge, Alpine 500w Mono Amp
    Yeah I'll probably just take it somewhere that knows what they're doing.. because I sure don't and I don't wanna screw something up
     
  7. Mar 5, 2014 at 6:51 AM
    #7
    Lurkin

    Lurkin Well-Known Member

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    That's quite a chunk of change. Personally, too much of a CAMF (Cheal Azz MoFo) to do that myself. The process is not difficult, you just need to research the wiring required, then draw yourself a picture of how you will do it. Then map that to the parts you need. Once you do it yourself, you will be able to bypass the installers forever more.

    By using a pre-packaged box, half the work is actually done.

    Quick-n-dirty summary:
    o pick amp location
    o run sub RCAs from HU to amp location
    o run remote amp turn-on lead from HU to amp
    o run amp power from battery to amp
    o run ground to spot close to amp
    o place sub box
    o run sub wires to box

    Most of the work is just running the wiring from the battery and HU to your amp location.
     
  8. Mar 5, 2014 at 8:59 AM
    #8
    2013TacoLTD

    2013TacoLTD Well-Known Member

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    Radio On Mod, Complete new stereo with 10" subs, Truxedo bed cover, GT-MAT through doors and rear cab.
    For what it is worth, there are a buch of videos on youtube from ********* that goes through a lot of the process. I enjoy the satisfaction of being the one to accomplish the work.

    If you decide to do it yourself, I am happy to assist as needed. Look at my thread in my signature to see my install on the pioneer 8500.

    Good luck either way.
     
  9. Mar 5, 2014 at 3:48 PM
    #9
    DirtyDTaco

    DirtyDTaco [OP] Talk slow, shoot fast.

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    Polk 6.5" Coaxial Door Speakers, Pioneer DEH-X6500BT Head Unit, Black Bed-Lined Badges, 15% Tint, JL Audio 10" BassWedge, Alpine 500w Mono Amp
    Thank y'all.
     
  10. Mar 5, 2014 at 5:24 PM
    #10
    DirtyDTaco

    DirtyDTaco [OP] Talk slow, shoot fast.

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    Polk 6.5" Coaxial Door Speakers, Pioneer DEH-X6500BT Head Unit, Black Bed-Lined Badges, 15% Tint, JL Audio 10" BassWedge, Alpine 500w Mono Amp
    actually the main thing is I want it to look good and im not real sure about running the wire and how to hide it
     
  11. Mar 6, 2014 at 5:09 AM
    #11
    Lurkin

    Lurkin Well-Known Member

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    It's not that difficult. Route all the power down the driver's side, the RCAs down the passenger side. Pop the door bottom sills out, just the friction clips, and push the cables through the center trim. Something to fish the wires around here is helpful. A coat hanger works well. Then put the wires under the sills and you're set.
     
  12. Mar 6, 2014 at 6:12 PM
    #12
    DirtyDTaco

    DirtyDTaco [OP] Talk slow, shoot fast.

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    Polk 6.5" Coaxial Door Speakers, Pioneer DEH-X6500BT Head Unit, Black Bed-Lined Badges, 15% Tint, JL Audio 10" BassWedge, Alpine 500w Mono Amp
    Awesome man thanks. I'm thinking about having my amp on my passengers side under the seat. I have an extended cab first gen. That wouldn't be far to run the power wire would it? Just from battery down the door scuff plate and under the seat?
     
  13. Mar 7, 2014 at 6:09 AM
    #13
    2013TacoLTD

    2013TacoLTD Well-Known Member

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    Radio On Mod, Complete new stereo with 10" subs, Truxedo bed cover, GT-MAT through doors and rear cab.
    I ran my power wire in through the fire wall then through the center console to the amp under the passenger seat. I ran all the speaker wires through the passenger door sill. Click my link below for pics.
     
  14. Mar 7, 2014 at 9:40 AM
    #14
    looking4vr

    looking4vr Well-Known Member

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    [​IMG]

    Ran my power wire through the grommet on the drivers side upper fire wall, through the factory cable route and under the drivers seat. Most direct route and kept the signal and speaker wiring away from the power wire.

    [​IMG]

    Routed the signal cabling and speaker wire along factory wire paths wherever possible and created a proper ground (bare sheetmetal) with a bolt and nut attached from underneath.

    [​IMG]

    Take your time and plan for a good days worth of work if you are doing it correctly and not rushing.

    [​IMG]
     
  15. Mar 7, 2014 at 10:45 AM
    #15
    2013TacoLTD

    2013TacoLTD Well-Known Member

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    Radio On Mod, Complete new stereo with 10" subs, Truxedo bed cover, GT-MAT through doors and rear cab.
    Nice work and pics Looking4vr. I put my amp under the passenger seat to make sure if it hampered the seat in any way, it would be the seat used occasionally. I was too lazt to pull the carpet up, so I ran my power through the center console and cut a 1" slit in the carpet to pass the power/ground wires. The speaker wires all went to the passenger door jamb:
    [​IMG]
     
  16. Mar 7, 2014 at 11:00 AM
    #16
    looking4vr

    looking4vr Well-Known Member

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    Thank you very much, and kudos to you as well. I'm very impressed with all the diy work on this site - must be due to an older, more mature demographic for these trucks compared to the automotive forums I came from. The work here is (for the most part) very good quality and done correctly. Lots of information available on here as well! :)
     
  17. Mar 7, 2014 at 5:29 PM
    #17
    DirtyDTaco

    DirtyDTaco [OP] Talk slow, shoot fast.

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    '00 XtraCab 4x4 3.4L V6 5-Speed, 240K miles
    Polk 6.5" Coaxial Door Speakers, Pioneer DEH-X6500BT Head Unit, Black Bed-Lined Badges, 15% Tint, JL Audio 10" BassWedge, Alpine 500w Mono Amp
    Man thank you so much! I just ordered my stuff from crutchfield so it should be here towards the middle of next week.
     
  18. Mar 7, 2014 at 6:50 PM
    #18
    DirtyDTaco

    DirtyDTaco [OP] Talk slow, shoot fast.

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    '00 XtraCab 4x4 3.4L V6 5-Speed, 240K miles
    Polk 6.5" Coaxial Door Speakers, Pioneer DEH-X6500BT Head Unit, Black Bed-Lined Badges, 15% Tint, JL Audio 10" BassWedge, Alpine 500w Mono Amp
    Is it bad to attach the ground to the seat rail bolt? something about drilling through the bottom of my truck scares me. I'll only be pushing 300 watts rms at 4 ohms
     
  19. Mar 8, 2014 at 4:37 AM
    #19
    looking4vr

    looking4vr Well-Known Member

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    "Bad" is subjective - it will technically get you a suitable chassis ground but it also has a much higher chance of having a different ground potential than, say, bare metal. That is why the best practice of sanding metal down to bare and grounding with a sturdy ring terminal is important. Noise can be more easily induced onto the system if the chassis ground for the amp power supply is potentially different than the signal ground that comes from the source - which likely has a bare metal ground in the factory harness up front. Is it "ground"? Yes. Is it good audio signal ground? Not very.
     
  20. Mar 8, 2014 at 5:01 AM
    #20
    DirtyDTaco

    DirtyDTaco [OP] Talk slow, shoot fast.

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    Polk 6.5" Coaxial Door Speakers, Pioneer DEH-X6500BT Head Unit, Black Bed-Lined Badges, 15% Tint, JL Audio 10" BassWedge, Alpine 500w Mono Amp
    What's the best way in your opinion to do it then?
     

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