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Intake modification & Engine light.

Discussion in 'Performance and Tuning' started by xian77, Jun 10, 2008.

  1. Jun 10, 2008 at 6:55 AM
    #1
    xian77

    xian77 [OP] Member

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    Intake Modification
    I am new to this site, but I have been to many others like this. I have quite a bit of modifying experience, but on other than tacomas.

    I have 2008 Tacoma with 2.7L. I have made my own intake and installed it. I removed the black resonator that connects to the throttle body, and installed an elbow and pipe straight down to the air filter box and placed a K&N filter on the end. I also cut an exact hole for AIT / AIC sensor .

    My problem is the vaccuum tube that ran to the resonator (i have reconnected to the elbow where my throttle body is connected).

    The car runs fine, but after about 10 miles, the check engine light comes on. I have tried extending the tube and coiling it to maybe reduce the air flow, but still the light comes on.

    I was wondering if anyone had any ideas of how to stop the light from comming on (without reinstalling the resonator)

    I have added a pic of it in the bottom post....
     
  2. Jun 10, 2008 at 7:00 AM
    #2
    lsocoee

    lsocoee My hair is all natural Moderator

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    have you checked the code?
     
  3. Jun 10, 2008 at 7:03 AM
    #3
    xian77

    xian77 [OP] Member

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    Intake Modification
    No. I haven't. The wife has it at work. Also why i didnt post any pics yet either.
     
  4. Jun 11, 2008 at 2:43 PM
    #4
    xian77

    xian77 [OP] Member

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    Intake Modification
    Well it took some time to figure out how to upload pics, but here is what I have done.

    If you look towards the right, there is wiring harness with vaccum tube wrapped around it and a vaccum advance (I think): it would run to the back side of the resonator (black box); which was not connected near the direct wind velocity of the intake. Since I have connected it there at the elbow; which I think is causing it to draw more air current through the vaccum tube causing the light to come.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jan 19, 2016
  5. Jun 11, 2008 at 2:49 PM
    #5
    lsocoee

    lsocoee My hair is all natural Moderator

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    Get her to stop by autozone on the way home and have them check the code.
     
  6. Jun 12, 2008 at 4:31 PM
    #6
    xian77

    xian77 [OP] Member

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    Intake Modification
    She went by today and got the code read...

    P0101

    MAP / BARO or MAF / VAF sensor condition.

    1. Vaccum hose off, cracked or passage blocked.
    2. Throttle body intake tubeloose, off, or cracked.
    3. BARO / MAP defective.
    4. VAF / MAF sensor dirty or defective.

    Is that 2 different sensors, being called 2 different names, or is it one sensor being called 4 names?

    I would assume the MAF / VAF is the one installed in to the alluminum tube.
    And, maybe the other is the one bolted to the back of the resonator?

    How likely is it to have gotten that ensor on the tube dirty or damaged. I took extreme precaution when handeling it.
     
  7. Jun 12, 2008 at 4:56 PM
    #7
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. Moderator

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    Its the MAF / VAF. Thats the only one you have. Did you leave any hoses disconected?
     
  8. Jun 12, 2008 at 5:00 PM
    #8
    xian77

    xian77 [OP] Member

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    Intake Modification
    No.. the only hose that was different after the modification, was a hose that went off a side chamber of the original air intake/resonator (that was not in the direct air flow). I have that now going to the direct air flow of the intake I installed.
     
  9. Jun 12, 2008 at 5:04 PM
    #9
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. Moderator

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    Did you drop the MAF or bump it while removeing it?
     
  10. Jun 12, 2008 at 5:06 PM
    #10
    xian77

    xian77 [OP] Member

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    I may have bumped it, but not anywhere near hard. Never dropped it.
     
  11. Jun 12, 2008 at 5:10 PM
    #11
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. Moderator

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    Hmmmmm.........did you make sure the electrical connections to it are pluged in propperly? Did you clear the code to see if it returns?
     
  12. Jun 13, 2008 at 12:24 PM
    #12
    xian77

    xian77 [OP] Member

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    Yes all the connections are connected,. Yes I cleared the codes. The code does not come on right away either. It takes 5-8 miles of driving before it comes on.

    I am thinking, since I connected the tube to the direct airflow (and not to the chamber on the resonator) is creating more vaccum in that line. I tried restricting the tube, by making the hole through it smaller. This did something, becuase the engine light didn't come on for more than twice that distance. Which leads me to believe that the computer is set to read air pressure through that line and I have changed that. Thus, causing the light to come on.

    If the MAF was bad, not plugged in, or not working properly, the engine would not turn over and run. Which it does and drives fine.

    I think i either have to put the resonator back on, live with the light, and/or find a way to doctor the hose to trick the ECU in to thinking it is reading the right pressure.
     
  13. Jun 13, 2008 at 2:50 PM
    #13
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. Moderator

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    I found this listed for the trouble code you listed.
    • Inspect for the following conditions:
      An incorrectly routed harness--Inspect the harness of the MAF sensor in order to verify that it is not routed too close to the following components:
      - The secondary ignition wires or coils
      - Any solenoids
      - Any relays
      - Any motorsA low minimum air rate through the sensor bore may cause this DTC to set at idle or during deceleration. Inspect for any vacuum leaks downstream of the MAF sensor.A wide open throttle (WOT) acceleration from a stop should cause the MAF sensor g/s display on the scan tool to increase rapidly. This increase should be from 6-12 g/s at idle to 230 g/s or more at the time of the 1-2 shift. If the increase is not observed, inspect for a restriction in the induction system or the exhaust system. The barometric pressure (BARO) that is used in order to calculate the predicted MAF value is initially based on the MAP sensor at key ON. When the engine is running the MAP sensor value is continually updated near WOT. A skewed MAP sensor will cause the calculated MAF value to be inaccurate. The value shown for the MAP sensor display varies with the altitude. With the ignition ON and the engine OFF, 103 kPa is the approximate value near sea level. This value will decrease by approximately 3 kPa for every 305 meters (1,000 feet) of altitude. A high resistance on the ground circuit of the MAP sensor can cause this DTC to set.
    • Any loss of vacuum to the MAP sensor can cause this DTC to set.
     
  14. Jun 17, 2008 at 3:28 PM
    #14
    xian77

    xian77 [OP] Member

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    Intake Modification
    Sorry been out of town..

    I have been driving it this week (it was wife's). At home, I clear the code, and I sits till morning. I drive to work, about 10 miles, and no light. When I get off work, it then comes on at different points in distance on the way home. I clear code again, and do it all over.

    Thanks Chris.. that harness thing might be helpful.. I had moved it and it was not in original position. We'll see when i get home from work tomorow.

    Another question.. I can't find a good enough picture of it.

    On K&N or another of the style, does the intake have a place to attach the crank case breather line?

    I have just put a crankcase breather filter on it.. maybe that is what is causing the CEL?
     
  15. Jun 17, 2008 at 4:46 PM
    #15
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. Moderator

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    I would guess its posible. Connect it as it was and see if the light goes away. :confused:
     
  16. Jun 18, 2008 at 12:06 PM
    #16
    xian77

    xian77 [OP] Member

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    Intake Modification
    Well.. the harness was not it.

    Next is to install the crankcase breather line to intake, and clean the MAF sensor.
     
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