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Interior L.E.D. Dome lights gets dim when truck is off.

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by TAC0MAMA, Oct 13, 2017.

  1. Oct 13, 2017 at 8:15 AM
    #1
    TAC0MAMA

    TAC0MAMA [OP] Well-Known Member

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    So I’ve searched the forum and found this has been discussed but I haven’t found a solution. I replaced the 2 map lights and the 1 dome light with LEDs from superbrightleds.com. When the key is in the accessory position or on, the lights work fine. When the key is off and the doors are closed or open, the lights are very dim. I’ve measured 12V at the dome light when the vehicle is on and .3V when the vehicle is off. Now I’m aware why this is happened and how the LED is not pulling enough current but Im looking for a solution to this. The stock light draws 12V even when the truck is off whereas the led is only drawing .3V. I’ve tried adding a resistor to both ends of the bulb, but the voltage is still far too low. If I switch out one of these 3 lights with a stock light and turn it on, the other LEDs get bright. I’m guessing because the stock light is telling the computer to put out 12V to the circuit whereas the LED won’t draw that much so the computer doesn’t push that out. I may be an electrical technician but I’m not familiar with this kind of wiring. Any help is appreciated.
     
  2. Oct 14, 2017 at 8:20 PM
    #2
    LouieV209

    LouieV209 Member

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    I have a 2001 tacoma I just replaced my dome/map lights with led's and I am having the same issues. The lights work great when the ignition is on, but dont work at all when the ignition is off. Any help?
     
    TAC0MAMA [OP] likes this.
  3. Oct 14, 2017 at 9:36 PM
    #3
    Seagull233

    Seagull233 Well-Known Member

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    BMW seats, OME Suspension, CBI and NWTI plates front and rear, 13,000 winch, LED light bars, Ham Radio, topper with roof rack added, stainless exhaust, 2nd battery, inverter, sound deadener
    Last edited: Oct 16, 2017
    TAC0MAMA [OP] and LouieV209 like this.
  4. Oct 14, 2017 at 10:00 PM
    #4
    frizzman

    frizzman Well-Known Member

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    OME 3", Tundra 17's, Cooper S/T Maxx 255/75-17, hitch w/ 7-pin, Leer cap, JVC head unit w/BT, LED lights
  5. Oct 15, 2017 at 4:37 PM
    #5
    TAC0MAMA

    TAC0MAMA [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thanks everyone. I tried a 1000 ohm .5 W resistor and that was clearly not enough. I will try a 100 ohm 1 W resistor.
     
  6. Oct 15, 2017 at 8:10 PM
    #6
    Glamisman

    Glamisman Well-Known Member

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    I believe the Body ECU was engineered around using incadesant(filament) bulbs and not LEDS...
     
  7. Oct 16, 2017 at 7:05 AM
    #7
    frizzman

    frizzman Well-Known Member

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    of course it was, but we like to mod :)
     
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  8. Oct 23, 2017 at 10:29 AM
    #8
    TAC0MAMA

    TAC0MAMA [OP] Well-Known Member

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    UPDATE: I soldered a 100 ohm, 1W resister to both sides of the led bulb that I used for my dome light and it works!!
     
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  9. Jul 17, 2019 at 8:48 AM
    #9
    STNSFNST

    STNSFNST Active Member

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    I dont suppose anyone has found away around soldering resistor to the bulb yet? I was hoping there was a a relay or something that could get it done
     
  10. Jul 17, 2019 at 10:52 AM
    #10
    frizzman

    frizzman Well-Known Member

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    you will always need the resistor, as it is looking for a certain amount of current/amps(?) across the wire. I bought bulbs with the resistor already soldered, saved me from having to care ;p
     
  11. Jul 17, 2019 at 11:11 AM
    #11
    95v6mt

    95v6mt Well-Known Member

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    be careful with the 1 watt resistor. 100 ohms at 12 volts is .12 amps and 1.44 watts
    at 13.4 volts it .134 amps and 1.7956 watts.

    still gonna be less heat than the stock bulb, but the stock bulb was made to handle the heat, a 1 watt resistor is not designed to handle almost 2 watts of heat.
     

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