InTheRough's Truck (Formerly PepsiManKolt)

white cheeder this time.

 

Oh whatever!

 

I finished cutting and welding the pinchweld. On the passanger side I cut the pinchweld down pretty much all the way and tried welding the two ends together since I didn't know what was behind it. On the driver side I cut the pinchweld almost all the way down (left 0.125-0.25") and then cut one side of the pinchweld all the way down and folded the uncut side over (making a nice overlap to make the welding easier).






I also ordered this to make some armor.
My first project will be brush guards bridged between the ARB to my sliders. I plan on adding durable fabric (probably thick rubber) so that they will double as a fender flares.
Over the winter I would like to make a bed rack with an aluminum skin so that my bed is still enclosed (rainy WA weather).

https://www.jd2.com/p-67-model-32-bender-manual.aspx

 

Very nice nice pinch and seal job on the left side i think. Last pic. anyway.

 

Ya, that last pic was the driver side.

I just ordered 4 of these to mount the brush guards (2 for each side):
http://www.4wheelparts.com/prodDetail.aspx?partNo=TGI180112-KIT&catID=81&subCat=493&ptID=4743

 

I got some DOM tube for the brush guards, the couplers should be here Friday and the Bender should be here Monday (kind of a bummer I can't work on it this weekend).

It may not be the "right way" or perfect by any means but I feel comfortable with the results of the way that I cut my fenders. In total I removed 2.25-2.75" all around

I put my fender flares on to get the curve of the outside line. I measured from the outside line to the inside edge of the fender well, splitting the measurement to make a comparable, but lesser, curve. I measured 1/2" out from there to create a lip to fold under:




The first pic is the main cut and the second is the cuts to allow the lip to fold under around the curves.



I didn't realize that the photo was fuzzy but this was supposed to be a shot of it after the cuts were folded under:

 

Hmmm

 

"Hmmm... Looking good", "Hmmm... Interesting" or "Hmmm... I don't know about that" lol

I just started trying to understand how everyone is wiring these Bussmann RFRM boxes...

Am I correct in my thinking on this diagram?

Right lug positive (+)
Left lug negative (-)

Both are connected to the first rows of each side, respectively.

Relay Output:
2A -> 2E supplies + to relay
1G -> 1E supplies the - to relay
2C is for relay trigger
1C is for power output

Fused Output:
1A is for + output
2G is for - output

If this is all true, which fuse is protecting the fused output? Would it be F1 (left side on face)? What is supplying + to the right side fuses (on face)?

 

What do the squares represent?

 

If i understand this^ all is fused with the input sides fuse. What size fuse is feeding this?
This is a relay panel correct

 

I just made a diagram of how the back of a RFRM box looks:


There are no fuses feeding the box. It is directly wired to the batteries. Each possition has their own fuse though:

 

I ordered a dual bus 15400 RFRM Bussmann box, some relays and terminals today. I also picked up an extra bus bar for another part of the project. I plan on using blade fuses to test the system but order cb212 blade breakers once everything is finished.




And received 4 sets of these for the brush gaurd project (2 sets shown):

 

We use those in our electrical service panels. The ground bus bar!

 

About your relay panel. Im not sure how the other side is powerd other than inside the plastic is a branch bar. As far as the fused part im not sure because it looks straight forward as far as the fuse point but where you put the wire to be fused, idk.

 

Impressive work, Kolt.

As I said earlier - I'm debating stepping into 35s for my trip to Moab... But I'm not certain if I'll have adequate time to do all of the necessary prep work before I depart on the 9th. I've been away from truck stuff for so long; and it seems like sizing up to 35s is much more involved than a casual thing.

That being said.

I'm not sure what your schedule will be for the coming week - but I'll have the welder out doing some little projects on my rig - mainly fabricating some additional skid plates... You're more than welcome to take a ride up and we can start the bumper process/general BS.

I'm interested in one of those Scepter cans - shoot me a PM with the info if you have time.

- jake

 

Ya, that is exactly what I will be using it for if all works out like I want it to. I am pretty much on a stand still for the box until I get the parts that I ordered... Typically people wire the box so that the right post is positive and the left post is negative (like I have pictured). I was talking about another TW member about his install (https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/assembled-a-fuse-box-and-some-switches.398242/) and he posted this.


It is sort of helpful but without being able to test it with my own hands, its always hard to try something new.
What I am curious about is if I install one (or two) of those ground bus bars, could I run power to both post; one constant power and one controlled by the ignition. The constant would allow me to run things like surround/rock lights, RTT power, and fridge while the ignition control would allow me to no drain the batteries with unnecessary things like CB and seat warmers.

Thanks Jake,
I have been looking at my schedule and its really hard to get away doing full time school. It would have to be a weekend thing. I am definitely looking forward to getting the bumper done though. How long do you think it will take to do the bumper with the taillight guards/brushguard mounts on the sides? Do you have, or are we going to need, hinge points for the swingout? I can build the swingouts with the bender that I am getting tomorrow but I am not to sure how to install the hinges for those and if they can be removable.

I would like to build the swingouts like All Pro's (but a little different):


I will PM you about the cans.

- Kolt

 

I got my tube bender assembled so that I can start on my brush guards:

 

Crazy! Fuck yhea man.

 

Wow, that thing is a workout. I have successfully created my first, ugly as sin, brush guard.

I was working on the passanger side brush guard and it turned out ok but I fucked up a bend towards the end. I continued trying to fix it but it left me with a bit of a weird shape in the front. I am contemplating just scraping it and chalking it up to a "practice run" but that is like throwing away $25... I may just try to do the driver side and see how that works out. If it turns out better, I will redo the passanger side.

The pictures are before I messed up the bend. That is where I cut the bumper as well.