Is An 8" Diamond Axle A Waste of Money?

I'm debating going with full float 8" diamond for simplicity reasons (transferable 3rd, easily found parts, simple setup, etc) for the back of my 4Runner. Will likely stick to stock geometry for now. The main reason for this is so later down the line I can run a front centered 8" full float diamond and parts will literally be interchangeable between the two. During a sas I will 3 link the front and 4 link the rear. The setup would be very easily done, simple, but strong.

This whole situation came up b/c putting a full float conversion on a stock 8" housing is like putting lipstick on a pig and I'm tired of the weak semi float/drums setup and having to clean/replace parts in my rear hubs every year due to leaky axle seals.

I don't beat the crap out of my rig (ok, I have some) but I want the strength to obviously do stuff I couldn't with IFS. I'm about to go work for an offroad fab shop who makes toyota/nissan/ford armor and I'll be attending a lot more events and doing a lot more wheeling for now on.

 

Full Float FJ80 rear with a Ruffstuff housing would be stronger and probably cheaper.

 

I haven't ruled out a 9.5. I prefer not to deal with the elocked version of that 3rd though. They're quite temperamental. I would still have to get it regeared too and if I'm not doing elocker I would run ARB, therefor more money.

In a nut shell I'm looking for the most simple setup that adds the strength and ease of maintenance while not breaking the bank. Of course front would obviously come later down the line.

 

What did you mean by a front centered full float?

 

This or run it offset until you buy a centerd housing. You can also get an open version of the 9.5, stuff a spartan in it and be done.

8" is not a waste though, the cool part is you can find factory 4.88 thirds for them in the junkyard, so you can get lower gears for cheap and no work besides swapping the 3rd.

 

I got ahead of myself and misspoken, front driver drop diamond 8. I created the thread right before I left work, so I was in a hurry to get out the door lol.

Offset wouldn't be a bad thing. I'm guessing just run double cardan joints at both ends (already at case end). 3rd gens have an issue with driveshaft hitting the gas tank skid (during flex) when lifted. Bout the only perk I can see out of it. However, I think doing everything to a stock 80 axle for it to mount up is a waste of time If I'm just going to go diamond in the future.

At this point, I'm leaning more towards a FF Diamond 8. Just for the fact of how easily parts can be found. I can go with a Diamond 8 in the front and I wont have to buy separate parts for both axles. All parts, even the 3rd's, will be interchangeable. I also wont have to buy a 3rd for the rear and I can sell my elocker housing for a little profit. I just want to make sure I'm getting my mulahs worth ya know?




Anyone else out there running a Diamond 8?

 

We've built 9.5 front and rear. A couple different versions of full float and semi float for the rear. And at least 4 different outers on the fronts. We take care of shafts in house to match while the housing is in process as well!

 

Geez Brian, you're all over the place lol. Had no clue you were on this forum, too. I need to call you again (called you a last week). I'm axing the ff conversion on the stock housing route and going with a ff housing all together. When is a good time to call that wont take up your work time in the shop?

 

Tons?

 

..... of money you're giving me. What a mighty fine gesture!

 

I should have elaborated. Why not tons? Honest question, nothing against Diamond.

 

9.5" all the way! When I can swing the cash I plan on picking up full width diamonds to drop all my parts into. I'm running 9.5's front and rear and have zero fear of breaking them even with a turbo 3rz pushing 39.5's

 

I knew what you were asking

Well, to answer your question....

1) Heavy as hell

2) Not going over 37's, IF that

3) Would be hard to keep low COG without cutting body to hell

4) Overkill for level of offroading

5) $$$$$$

6) Daily Driven

 

I figured you did.
1&3) Benefits low CG
2) Ok, you have a point there
4) Overkill is good
5) Diamonds would run about the same as tons from what I've seen on their site. ($950.00+ for a front right?)

 

Don't tell that to the 100's of people that run 37's and 40's on 8" axles without issues. You can't drive like a rock bouncer but it works really well on a light rig. Hell the reverse cut 7.5 lives fine with 35's on ifs trucks.

A fzj80 rear axle would be sweet on a 4Runner that's a little heavier than a Taco. Plus you get get them really cheap. Going to go to 63's or transfer over the bracketry?

 

Wrong, its common knowledge you cannot wheel on anything less than tons with tires over 33"s...

 

Lol

 

I did forget to update this.. I had a long talk with Brian @ FROR (Diamond) and we both came to the conclusion after playing pros-n-cons, that in my case/situation, an 8" would be a good match for my needs and future plans. Therefor, I put my deposit down on one

Short Term Plans:
8" FF Diamond, stock(ish) bracketry/geometry with few changes, upgraded links, drop in current elocker/geared 3rd, early toy pickup outers, no abs, no ebrake

Mid/Long Term Plans:
SAS w/ 8" Diamond - driver drop, 3 link, early toy pickup outers, ARB or Elocker geared 3rd, high/crossover steer or hydro assist (haven't decided), Rear upgraded to 4-link
F150 tank swap under back of truck (common swap to free underbelly space)
37's

Wishful Thinking:
Crawl Box/Dual Cases



No you may ask why I go through the trouble of redoing the bracketry on a new diamond axle in the long run, why not go 4-link from the beginning? Well, the answer is time and money. Plain and simple. Redoing the rear geometry completely would take a lot of time and right now I need a quick solution to remedy the failing semi-float design on these 8" rear axles. Getting what I need now will allow me to fix my problem while I save for long term plans, even if that does require redoing something I just upgraded (if that makes sense).