JFR Equal Length Y-Pipe for 2nd Gen Tacoma, T4R, & FJ Cruisers

Pretty much this right here. Map gas or greater. Bend it away from the cross member. Then equalize the bend at the portion for the bushing itself. Then it'll be good to go.

 

This is interesting!
I thought the distance was the same between the different vehicles crossmembers.
I know the height varies slightly between models which is why some have had rubbing with other manufacturers y-pipes but I didnt know the distance was different.

 

Can you get a breaker bar on the end and bend it back a bit?
If not you can take it off and give it a little mallet coercion.
It's not far off so easy fix buddy.
You should see how I bend them (vise and breaker bar).
She'll move.

Super sorry it's not perfect out of the box though.

Edit: I'd manipulate the hanger before messing with those header bolts if you already have them tightened down.

 

This is the best picture that I have. Back and up.

 

Nice shaft!

 

Y'all have some crazy clean (non Tacoma) rides!!!

 

IIRC the 4 vs 2wd frames are different, not the cross member itself.

 

Paint it shit brown. That's a good idea. Hahaha.

 

I get that a lot.

Mines a half breed. Shhhhh. Our little secret.

6 lug vs 5 lug you mean? Or 6 lug vs 6 lug?

 

Yes! I knew I wasn't crazy lol. Sorry guys, I got rained out again today. Typical May in South Florida. I don't have a gas bottle lying around so I tried my little mini propane torch that I use for soldering/shrink tubing. Obviously that did nothing but almost burn my hand, but the flame was blue lol.

Guess I'll try a little more coercion when I get back under there. I know my HOA isn't happy about the truck in front of the house on jack stands but I'm determined to not put that stock y-pipe back on

 

Hey this is the cost of custom. No foul on your part. I wish I would have had to time to install sooner so you can get this R&D feedback.

I got a little closer after loosening the headers and bellhousing brackets. I was at least able to get both the collector and y flanges pressed against the gasket. I also tied the hanger to the OEM hanger with a zip tie to keep the tail end up off of the crossmember. Going to try retightening things down if/when it's dry and sunny. I have a feeling the passenger side bellhousing bracket might interfere with the y pipe flange, but honestly I'm ready to take a grinder to it if I have to.

 

modern problems require modern solutions.

 

I have seen that before one time on @5thGearPinned's truck. Its a super tight fit between the header L-shaped lower header brackets and the flange.
I grinded a small amount off of his and repainted. No harm no foul.

Seriously i'd just put the y-pipe on the grass (so you don't scratch it) and hit that sucker with a large hammer to bend it forward a bit.

Gotta use some common sense skills here but if it were mine I'd use a breaker bar to keep the end of the hanger somewhat true while holding the y-pipe with my legs in the grass (not to scratch) then a couple good whacks in the mid section of the hanger (use a 2x4 or similar to prevent scratching if it matters to you) will yield the clearance needed (@JustDSM and I did this with the rear hanger of the URD equal length system which he later sold) when we first installed it and that hanger required a 90 degree bend (for some reason Toyota changed the tailpipe hanger angle).
Regardless it was a simple breaker bar and bend to what we needed it to be. 10 seconds on the grass in my front yard and problem solved!

YOU shouldn't need to do this but thank you VERY MUCH for your understanding on a semi unproven application!!!

I think @Braunschwaga was the first to install on an X-Runner. I wonder if he will chime in on any fitment issues.

I take great pride in ensuring a plug and play fitment as I (as well as many of y'all) have purchased items that we have had to re-engineer or modify to make fit our application. Without feedback I have no way of knowing how to reconfig for all applications so again THANK YOU for bringing this to my attention!

P.S. If welds were to break from you beating on the hanger to fit (they wont), I will compensate you by paying for local welder to repair. Trust me, the welds will hold, but this is insurance JIC.


Roost

 

I'd like to change my selections from 4 bungs to only 2.

 

Not a problem at all as it saves me from drilling, deburring, and welding two extra bungs plus the price of the bungs themselves (which are pricy) but why since there is no extra cost for these options?

P.S. Since I work out of my garage and don't have an official business, I simplify pricing. I'm not concerned over a few bucks on a $1K item either way whether its to your advantage or mine. My primary objective is to make the most efficient exhaust systems for our application which has been neglected in the mass market.

Roost

 

As it is in my current exhaust configuration, I only need two... that could change theoretically, but when I took apart my old Y-pipe I noticed the plugs in the bungs that aren't being used protrude slightly past the inner anulus of the pipe. My theory is, even having a plugged bung could cause a minor restriction. But, that said, I'm not trying to win any official races I suppose. I'll make it 2 anyways.

 

Ok, sounds good buddy.

 

Really looking forward to getting my Y-pipe, it's just insane what some people can do and the stuff they've pioneered for our trucks. My hat's off to you.

 

Thanks man!!!
You have done some amazing things yourself!
I'm just a dude working out of a garage.