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JL Stealthbox 2005+ install

Discussion in 'Audio & Video' started by mr smitty, May 20, 2010.

  1. May 20, 2010 at 6:42 PM
    #1
    mr smitty

    mr smitty [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Hey guys I just got my jl stealthbox in today it looks great. I plan on doing this install with the help of my dad and doing a write up on it. Il be adding the stealthbox with 2 10" w1v2 8 ohm speakers wired to 4 ohm and 600w rhm power 1200w max. Il be putting an alpine pdx-m6 amp with 600wx1 rhm power and 1200w max at 4 ohm to match the subs just right and not major drain the battery. Il also be adding a bass knob for easy control in the driverseat and using a stinger amp wiring kit and the lineoutput from the radio and stinger wire to reach the amp at the back. Pics will be up when the install is under way but iv got to get everything in first
     
  2. May 20, 2010 at 8:48 PM
    #2
    ItalynStylion

    ItalynStylion Sounds Gooooood

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  3. May 21, 2010 at 12:29 PM
    #3
    mr smitty

    mr smitty [OP] Well-Known Member

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    So today I got my stealthbox in from florida and the alpine amp in from california. Still 6 days before the wires to hook it up will come but im making the preparations for the install right now just pulled off the back plastic that il have to cut for the box and im figuring out how I want to mount this amp to look clean behind the rear driver side seat
     
  4. May 21, 2010 at 1:03 PM
    #4
    hookedontronics

    hookedontronics Well-Known Member

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    Vehicle:
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    Icon extended travel 3.5" front coilovers, DSM UCAs, TSB leaf pack w/ wheelers AAL, All Pro U-bolt flip kit, Walker Evans 2.0 rear shocks, 18" XD Monster rims, Nitto trail grappler 285/65R18 Tires, Color matched grill, Grillcraft, Kragen HIDs, Carling switches, my bed light mod, diff drop, Alpine IVA-W505, JL Audio C5 componets and coaxials, JL 300/4 and 250/1 amps and JL stealthbox, wheathertechs, avs vent visors, toyota bed x-tender, alcantara center console cover and door pocket covers, console vault, color matched mirrors, heated mirrors, etc etc etc
  5. May 21, 2010 at 1:18 PM
    #5
    toyotacoma

    toyotacoma Member

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    +1
     
  6. May 21, 2010 at 1:19 PM
    #6
    Maintenance Man

    Maintenance Man Well-Known Member

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    +2
     
  7. May 21, 2010 at 1:20 PM
    #7
    VooDoo

    VooDoo More Cowbell!

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    damn...that set up must have cost you an arm and a leg!
    Can't wait to see it done
     
  8. May 21, 2010 at 1:22 PM
    #8
    mr smitty

    mr smitty [OP] Well-Known Member

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    im working on it haha
     
  9. May 22, 2010 at 8:58 PM
    #9
    mr smitty

    mr smitty [OP] Well-Known Member

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    1. First thing i did was remove the backs of the rear seats.
    The bolts holding the backs to the fold down seats are located under the plastic cover on each corner
    to do this you will need a 14mm socket
    remember that the middle seat seat belt is bolted down also

    2. now be gentle and slowly pull the plastic snaps off from both sides of the plastic

    3. unfasten the two plastic pieces in the middle this is the challenge because it requires force but not too much because it is plastic and could damage the plastic

    4. you are left with the bare metal and two individual plastic pieces

    subs 027.jpg
    subs 028.jpg
     
  10. May 22, 2010 at 9:05 PM
    #10
    mr smitty

    mr smitty [OP] Well-Known Member

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    i decided that the metal hooks might get in the way so i removed them from the middle support bar
    each bracket is welded on in three visible spots
    the cleanest way to remove these is to get a drill bit larger than the spots and drill out the weld
    once you drill out these three holes they are easily removed

    subs 025.jpg
     
  11. May 22, 2010 at 9:10 PM
    #11
    mr smitty

    mr smitty [OP] Well-Known Member

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    the next thing to do is to follow the jl audio instructions on trimming the passenger side plastic piece.
    i took a cutting wheel and made the specified cuts to make the box fit

    once i went back over and smoothed the edges i test fit the box and it fit just right

    subs 030.jpg
    subs 031.jpg
     
  12. May 22, 2010 at 9:17 PM
    #12
    mr smitty

    mr smitty [OP] Well-Known Member

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    to attach the box to the truck a bolt is attached to the truck
    a hole must be drilled through the back metal wall
    to mark the spot wax paper is applied to the right of the second bracket and the subs are pushed against the wall to mark the drill hole
    once the hole is drilled, insert the subs
    now that you have the bolt sticking out of the cab, get under the truck and put the 3 washers and nut on it and tighten until firmly attached
    to insure this will not slip or rattle i applied a dab of silicon over the connection and in the gap before the washers and nut were put on

    subs 029.jpg
    subs 032.jpg
     
  13. May 22, 2010 at 9:28 PM
    #13
    mr smitty

    mr smitty [OP] Well-Known Member

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    so now i have the stealthbox in and ready to go and im making the preparations to mount the amp and still have room for a second amp for the future speaker improvement
    today i only had time to put the first metal bracket onto the truck behind the driverside seat to hold the amp
    tomorrow i should have the plastic trimed and the amp mounted
    still waiting for all of the wiring to come in
    some will come monday and the other wires are expected thursday
    more to come

    subs 033.jpg
    subs 021.jpg
    subs 018.jpg
     
  14. May 24, 2010 at 9:00 PM
    #14
    glandnut

    glandnut Grease Monkey

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    secret stuff.
    Interesting, I never knew JL had you drilling a hole through the back cab wall in order to secure that Taco box. Crazy. Nice PDX, I'm waiting for the second gen PDX-5 to surface myself.
     
  15. May 24, 2010 at 9:27 PM
    #15
    mr smitty

    mr smitty [OP] Well-Known Member

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    so i finished up the metal brackets and covered them in felt on front and back and screwed them in and put silicon over the ends to ensure they wont rattle any
    on the brackets, the top screws just mounted into the bottom of the top back brace
    the screw into the middle bar was cut to be flatter and i cut partially into the brace with a larger drill bit in order for the screw to sit more flush agaisnt the brace
    now that the braces are down, i mounted the amp with metal screws into the braces
    the amp is mounted securely down and the plastic is put back in place over it

    wiring 005.jpg
    wiring 006.jpg
    wiring 007.jpg
    wiring 008.jpg
     
  16. May 24, 2010 at 9:39 PM
    #16
    mr smitty

    mr smitty [OP] Well-Known Member

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    today in the mail i got my pac 35 line output converter and my stinger dual 17ft RCA wire kit
    the first thing i did was remove the driver side wiring pannels that include:
    the drive door floor, driver side rear floor, head unit, and kick pannel next to the plastic foot rest
    i ran my wire from the head unit to the rear using a metal wire hanger that i bent into a hook to pull the wire through this was fairly easy it just took some time

    wiring 018.jpg
    wiring 009.jpg
    wiring 012.jpg
     
  17. May 24, 2010 at 9:41 PM
    #17
    mr smitty

    mr smitty [OP] Well-Known Member

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    thanks man i really like the looks of it but i cant wait to hear how it sounds once i get it all going
     
  18. May 24, 2010 at 9:48 PM
    #18
    mr smitty

    mr smitty [OP] Well-Known Member

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    so here was the speed bump, the line output converter to a stock head unit
    i did some research and didnt find much specific information about the exact wiring on the plugs running into the radio, but i did find some general toyota plug information and it matched my plugs perfectly so i went with it
    to the line output i spliced into the right rear +, right rear -, left rear +, and left rear -, and also the ground
    locating these wires was easy once i found the proper information on the specific wires
    although it looks messy, it will work, is secure, and is easily undid for when i decide to go on with a new head unit

    wiring 001.jpg
    wiring 002.jpg
    wiring 014.jpg
     
  19. May 24, 2010 at 9:49 PM
    #19
    mr smitty

    mr smitty [OP] Well-Known Member

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    now tomorrow my stinger 4 gague amp wiring kit should come in and il be able to power everything up and put things back in their place until the bass knob comes in
     
  20. May 25, 2010 at 6:52 AM
    #20
    hookedontronics

    hookedontronics Well-Known Member

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    You should use connectors made for 12v. Replace those with some splices.
     
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